Attempting to do front brake pads - Page 2



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Thread: Attempting to do front brake pads

  1. #21

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    Re: Attempting to do front brake pads

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian P View Post
    Tip for cleaning brake calipers (including the pistons).

    Get a big bottle of Pine-Sol, the original variety (not the fancy smelling ones). Cut the top off a suitable plastic jug (I used an old laundry-detergent jug), one that is just big enough to contain your entire brake caliper. Support the plastic jug beside your bike in a way that you can hang the entire brake caliper (brake hose still connected but brake pads removed) in the plastic jug and then fill it with Pine-Sol so that the entire brake caliper is immersed. Leave it sit for half an hour.

    Now go after the brake caliper pistons with a toothbrush and/or spray them with brake cleaner (the built-up mung will come off very easily), then push the brake caliper pistons back in, then clean the entire brake calipers with soap and water and dry them off, and install your new brake pads. You can re-use the Pine-Sol for the other side ... I keep it for subsequent cleaning jobs.

    The Pine-Sol softens the deposits on the brake calipers so that even in the parts of the piston that you can't get at with a toothbrush, the seals in the brake calipers will just push the deposits loose, and then when you clean the calipers with soap and water, the loosened black stuff will come off easily and your brake calipers will look like new. It won't damage the seals.
    Nice idea !
    I usually add a drop of brake fluid under rubber boots , after the cleaning , to lube the pistons and seal as they are pushed back in . I don't think brake cleaner is a great lube ..

  2. #22
    TwistedKestrel's Avatar
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    Re: Attempting to do front brake pads

    Based on how you described the fluid level before, your master cyl reservoir should be crazy overfilled now. Not fixing this problem can lead to fun things like your front brakes locking up on the highway (due to drag & heat). And you REALLY should be bleeding the calipers with the pad change anyway.

    This job isn't too hard, but you're not done yet. Mechanic wasn't asking $100 to just unscrew the pad pins and slap new pads in the calipers
    2006 Honda CB919
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  3. #23
    arogal's Avatar
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    Re: Attempting to do front brake pads

    Quote Originally Posted by TwistedKestrel View Post
    Based on how you described the fluid level before, your master cyl reservoir should be crazy overfilled now. Not fixing this problem can lead to fun things like your front brakes locking up on the highway (due to drag & heat). And you REALLY should be bleeding the calipers with the pad change anyway.

    This job isn't too hard, but you're not done yet. Mechanic wasn't asking $100 to just unscrew the pad pins and slap new pads in the calipers
    Yesterday I removed the cap from front reservoir and drained a little fluid out. It is sitting just below the top full line now. I read that if the fluid in top brake reservoir is too full, there won't be any room for the fluid to go when it expands and heats up, therefore the pistons would push out, but now that there is some air in the reservoir all should be ok. I never noticed the front pads dragging while moving my bike in neutral with it turned off. How is the job not done....what do I need to do? Pads have been removed, brakes have been cleaned, pistons pushed in with no issues & weren't seized. All I need to do is throw in the anti-rattle clips which are coming in at some point this week.
    Last edited by arogal; 07-16-2018 at 06:04 PM.

  4. #24
    boyoboy's Avatar
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    Re: Attempting to do front brake pads

    Quote Originally Posted by TwistedKestrel View Post
    Based on how you described the fluid level before, your master cyl reservoir should be crazy overfilled now. Not fixing this problem can lead to fun things like your front brakes locking up on the highway (due to drag & heat). And you REALLY should be bleeding the calipers with the pad change anyway.

    This job isn't too hard, but you're not done yet. Mechanic wasn't asking $100 to just unscrew the pad pins and slap new pads in the calipers
    that depends on the shop...
    good to see op got the bike roadworthy !

    edit- to be fair about finishing the job...it would drive me nuts if that was my bike and I didn't flush the brake fluid lol but not a biggie, maybe plan it for later. don't wait for the fluid to discolor and then change it. do the flush while its STILL clear imo.
    Last edited by boyoboy; 07-16-2018 at 05:24 PM.
    DEMOCRACY - NOT PLUTOCRACY www.globalresearch.ca

  5. #25
    arogal's Avatar
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    Re: Attempting to do front brake pads

    Friend in my apartment was asking me how I made out, I was telling him about how the fluid was "too full"... Took resv cap off and there is a little rubber piece that goes into it. The piece of rubber (almost like a collapsible bowl) was not collapsed, so it was twice the size it should have been and would dip into the fluid making it rise to the top. We collapsed it into a smaller form and now it is sitting perfect.
    Sorry for all the posts, I'm not too mechanically inclined and am slowly learning how all this stuff works. Is it better to have it bigger, dipping into the fluid making it rise, or collapsed how is currently is now. I guess either way it doesn't matter, because if the fluid was to heat up and expand, the rubber piece inside could collapse as well making room for fluid.
    Last edited by arogal; 07-16-2018 at 08:18 PM.

  6. #26
    JavaFan's Avatar
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    Re: Attempting to do front brake pads

    that diaphragm should be collapsed (smaller) on re-assembly
    it will move on it's own based on pressure/vacuum

  7. #27

    Re: Attempting to do front brake pads

    Quote Originally Posted by arogal View Post
    .... Is it better to have it bigger, dipping into the fluid making it rise, or collapsed how is currently is now...
    The purpose of the bladder is to reduce the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid from absorbing moisture from the air, ideal is for the area below the bladder to be completely full of fluid, area above is vented to atmospheric pressure, water condensation will tend to accumulate in the top part.

  8. #28
    Riceburner's Avatar
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    Re: Attempting to do front brake pads

    Sounds like fluid wasn't added. Just the bladder doing it's job and extending to take up space in the res. In that case no fluid needed to be drained.

  9. #29
    TwistedKestrel's Avatar
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    Re: Attempting to do front brake pads

    Quote Originally Posted by arogal View Post
    Friend in my apartment was asking me how I made out, I was telling him about how the fluid was "too full"... Took resv cap off and there is a little rubber piece that goes into it. The piece of rubber (almost like a collapsible bowl) was not collapsed, so it was twice the size it should have been and would dip into the fluid making it rise to the top. We collapsed it into a smaller form and now it is sitting perfect.
    Sorry for all the posts, I'm not too mechanically inclined and am slowly learning how all this stuff works. Is it better to have it bigger, dipping into the fluid making it rise, or collapsed how is currently is now. I guess either way it doesn't matter, because if the fluid was to heat up and expand, the rubber piece inside could collapse as well making room for fluid.
    Roger, was just going off your description. Don't want to see anyone get hurt, enjoy the bike
    2006 Honda CB919
    "Anything invented after you're thirty-five is against the natural order of things." -Douglas Adams

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