Attempting to do front brake pads | GTAMotorcycle.com

Attempting to do front brake pads

arogal

Well-known member
I got my EBC HH front pads for my 2009 ZX6R this morning and and going to attempt to put them in tonight. My front pads are completely toast and I am not going to ride until the new ones are put in. I watched a couple youtube vids, and there is one online for my exact bike model.....seems very straight forward!
My question is, my front brake reservoir is completely full of fluid (over max line), with just a little bubble in it. I am assuming it has been topped up with worn pads. After I take the old pads out and push the pistons in, is this going to be an issue? I am no mechanic, but since the reservoir is full already, with warn pads, will the pistons not be able to push in further/can I cause any problems to the lines etc? Should I take the cap off the reservoir and drain some brake fluid out with a syringe? Iv'e never done this and don't want to get air in the lines as I've never had to bleed lines before. I am a noob when it comes to servicing, and every time I try to do something I always run into silly complications. I'd like to educate myself and save some $$ at the same time and start doing basic servicing to my bike myself.
Thanks!!
 
YES! Wrap a rag around the res. Take the cap off and use a syringe to take out some of the fluid. Don't get too low as to expose the bottom hole that goes to the brake lever assembly. Install the new pads. Activate the brake a few times, keeping an eye on the fluid level. Top off with fresh fluid. If you don't have fresh, only take out about half and watch the levels.


Clean the brake pistons before pushing them in for the new pads.
 
YES! Wrap a rag around the res. Take the cap off and use a syringe to take out some of the fluid. Don't get too low as to expose the bottom hole that goes to the brake lever assembly. Install the new pads. Activate the brake a few times, keeping an eye on the fluid level. Top off with fresh fluid. If you don't have fresh, only take out about half and watch the levels.


Clean the brake pistons before pushing them in for the new pads.

an alternative if you don't have a syringe. just bleed the brakes until on the low mark (before doing anything else).
why not flush the brake fluid completely now? I flush my fluid every year but manufacturers say every 2-3 years?
this will help keep your bikes master and calipers happy and longer lasting. and improve the feel of your brakes.

edit and use the correct brake fluid new from a sealed container
take your time and don't make a mess, brake fluid eats plastic and paint
Im sure there are some good videos available on bleeding/flushing brakes - I like the motorcyclist garage with ari henning...
 
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And clean the pistons with some soapy water and a toothbrush before you push them back in.
 
I have many new syringes at work that I can take for no charge so I will just use one of those. Would it be ok if I just squeeze the fluid back in the reservoir from the syringe, if needed? From what I can see the fluid is very clear (which means clean I guess?).
Instead of using soapy water, would brake cleaner be a better alternative? Or will they do the exact same thing?
 
I have many new syringes at work that I can take for no charge so I will just use one of those. Would it be ok if I just squeeze the fluid back in the reservoir from the syringe, if needed? From what I can see the fluid is very clear (which means clean I guess?).
Instead of using soapy water, would brake cleaner be a better alternative? Or will they do the exact same thing?

I think this should be ok if the syringe isn't melting from the brake fluid. but you have more than enough brake fluid. lower to the low mark only - new pads will raise this to middle or top mark. good to go.
 
Instead of using soapy water, would brake cleaner be a better alternative? Or will they do the exact same thing?

Sure.I just like the soapy water because it's free and does the exact same thing.Btw.....be very careful with brake fluid.It removes paint and discolors plastic really quickly.
 
Tips:

1) don't completely remove the foil on the brake fluid bottle opening. Just poke a hole

2) for rubber parts like brake sliding boots, use silicone spray lube on a rag to Keepmoat looking moist

3) don't get a big brake fluid bottle

4) cover all around the bike before opening fluid reservoir
 
I like the idea of bleeding at the caliper to lower the fluid level
nothing down there that's painted to get damaged
put some small diameter plastic tubing on the bleeder screw
other end goes in a coffee can or whatever, doesn't spill a drop that way
after that you can carefully remove the reservoir lid without much mess

it is a good opportunity to replace the fluid
it can look clean but have moisture in it
 
Tip for cleaning brake calipers (including the pistons).

Get a big bottle of Pine-Sol, the original variety (not the fancy smelling ones). Cut the top off a suitable plastic jug (I used an old laundry-detergent jug), one that is just big enough to contain your entire brake caliper. Support the plastic jug beside your bike in a way that you can hang the entire brake caliper (brake hose still connected but brake pads removed) in the plastic jug and then fill it with Pine-Sol so that the entire brake caliper is immersed. Leave it sit for half an hour.

Now go after the brake caliper pistons with a toothbrush and/or spray them with brake cleaner (the built-up mung will come off very easily), then push the brake caliper pistons back in, then clean the entire brake calipers with soap and water and dry them off, and install your new brake pads. You can re-use the Pine-Sol for the other side ... I keep it for subsequent cleaning jobs.

The Pine-Sol softens the deposits on the brake calipers so that even in the parts of the piston that you can't get at with a toothbrush, the seals in the brake calipers will just push the deposits loose, and then when you clean the calipers with soap and water, the loosened black stuff will come off easily and your brake calipers will look like new. It won't damage the seals.
 
Yes to pretty much everything!
new fluid only, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere, that's what really makes it need replacing.
I never add fluid because the manufacturer generally sets the volume of the reservoir to directly relate to the amount of brake pad available,
... would be pretty silly of them to build it any other way.
 
Update... Buddy bailed on me so I did them anyways. Didn't bother taking the brake res cap off because after I cleaned them out the pistons slid in with EASE just using my thumb. Took me a total of 25 mins to complete the job. I do have a concern tho. When I took the pads out I noticed that the metal holders (metal things on caliper above pins) were never on the calipers. I asked previous owner and he said he never saw them either, I put 6000km on bike this yr without them and didn't notice any issues. Just went for a test ride and there was not a single squeal or noise. Should I be concerned?
I'm surprised how simple this job was, what a joke to pay a mechanic $100 to put them in haha!
I'm happy, the bikes happy... Time for some wobbly pops!
 
The anti-rattle clips aren't always necessary. If it works without them, it's fine.
 
.......... fill it with Pine-Sol so that the entire brake caliper is immersed. Leave it sit for half an hour.

..........a toothbrush and/or spray them with brake cleaner...........

Never heard of this, but sounds interesting. Did a general Google search and another forum mentioned that the Pine-Sol soak removed paint from a side case. I'm not certain if my black calipers are painted, anodized or chemically treated to turn them black or if this is an issue to be concerned about at all.

Just a note that many feel that brake cleaner can damage seals. I use brake fluid when cleaning pistons.

Lots of YT videos about small Harbour Freight type ultrasonic cleaners using a mix of water and Pine-Sol or Simply Green soak parts in + the cleaner has a switchable solution heating element built in. I'm going to get one of these units next time I'm in NF or Buffalo. Potential big time saver + it probably does a better job than a manual scrub.
 
I've always felt and head a very very slight chatter in my front end going over curbs and small bumps.....low and behold it's cause the freakin anti rattle clips were never there. Went to burly cycle and ordered 4 of them, cost me $40. Not 100% necessary, but I'd rather have them properly placed than have a little play for a $40 fix.
I assume I can just take the pad pins out and then put in the anti rattle clips? Atleast I don't think I'd need to take the whole caliper out. I'll just get my wife to squeeze the brake lever so the pads stay in place while I remove the pins.
 
DON'T SQUEEZE THE BRAKE LEVER WITHOUT PADS IN PLACE AGAINST THE DISK!

Chances are you have to pivot the calipers away from the disks to get the pads off. Otherwise the same as replacing the pads. You can also add some anti-squeal between the pad and clips.
 
I've always felt and head a very very slight chatter in my front end going over curbs and small bumps.....low and behold it's cause the freakin anti rattle clips were never there. Went to burly cycle and ordered 4 of them, cost me $40. Not 100% necessary, but I'd rather have them properly placed than have a little play for a $40 fix.
I assume I can just take the pad pins out and then put in the anti rattle clips? Atleast I don't think I'd need to take the whole caliper out. I'll just get my wife to squeeze the brake lever so the pads stay in place while I remove the pins.

...chatter going over curbs? ...lmao you couldn't have really meant that lol still smiling to myself

the lack of anti rattle clips won't "have a little play" the piston movement will still take up the play as usual.

it is a good practice to double check all the bolts for tightness whenever you have worked on the brakes.
 
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Function of the anti-rattle clips is to settle the pads when they are not being applied, I concur with the above that your description sounds more like a suspension, steering head bearing or wheel bearing, or something loose type issue.

Either way the clips should be on there and really are not normally hard to install (there are several variations in design) Really should not need to hold the brake on during installation but if you do :/ an elastic band works pretty good.
 

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