2007 Vulcan 900 Custom noise. | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

2007 Vulcan 900 Custom noise.

Re: 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900: Clunking noise update

Given the condition of his belt in the video (pulley spinning against belt and side of belt shredded) I would consider his beyond the point of salvage. Based on that belt price plus the description of the work required, my guess is $750+ for a shop to get this done.

Thank you for your reply. So it’s just the belt issue, correct?
And that’s really expensive. Is there anything more affordable. I can’t believe that the belt gave out at 28,000 kms.


Rev ON
 
Re: 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900: Clunking noise update

Thank you for your reply. So it’s just the belt issue, correct?
And that’s really expensive. Is there anything more affordable. I can’t believe that the belt gave out at 28,000 kms.

Overtensioning or debris damage can wear out a drive belt prematurely, other than that they're stone reliable.
As I already suggested, you aren't likely to find anything other than the original Kawasaki replacement.
Bite the bullet, get it repaired and move along...
 
Re: 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900: Clunking noise update

Thank you for your reply. I was going to, but I didn’t wanna reply to the old thread because I thought no one would reply to it, as it would go to the bottom of the list.


Rev ON

Everytime there's a new post, it jumps to the top again. Things only get pushed down if they are inactive.
 
Re: 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900: Clunking noise update

Thank you for your reply. So it’s just the belt issue, correct?
And that’s really expensive. Is there anything more affordable. I can’t believe that the belt gave out at 28,000 kms.


Rev ON

You need someone competent to look at it. You obviously have a belt issue, but nobody can internet diagnosis any other issues that may also exist. You said you just bought it, likely the last owner did something wrong with belt tension (either too loose or too tight, my money is on too loose). I would want someone to look it over to make sure nothing else was messed up before more damage (or worse injury) occurs.

Belts are always expensive because they should last a very long time leading to a low cost per km if they aren't prematurely damaged.

PM Frekeyguy (he is also motomechto.com) for the lowest price you are going to find on competent repairs.

Good luck.

EDIT:
If the teeth aren't stripped out of the belt, you could theoretically tighten it up and ride it but I would very strongly advise against this. Your belt has clearly been damaged, if it breaks on the road it could get tangled in the rear wheel and cause a crash.
 
Last edited:
Re: 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900: Clunking noise update

I took the liberty of merging the two related threads on the same topic.

The photo that was taken of the drive area of the bike in question is so microscopically small that I can't see anything meaningful.

Number one thing to check is if the center nut on the pulley is tight. If it's loose as was shown in the video (of someone else's bike - we think) then it may have the same issue: The splines in the pulley are shot, probably because the pulley was not clamped properly because someone didn't tighten the center nut properly. If that's the case then the fix is the same: replace the pulley and this time tighten the center nut properly. The bent washer that the video points out is bent because that bent-over edge helps to retain the nut from loosening ... it isn't something wrong, it's supposed to be bent (and you have to bend it when installing the nut. If you don't, the nut will come loose. That bent-over edge is the only reason the center nut in the video didn't come off leading to the pulley in the video coming completely off the shaft.)

The second thing to check is whether the belt is good. I can't tell in the microscopic photo that was provided. If the teeth are all intact and it looks like the shape of the teeth meshes with the sprocket well and the edges of the pulley aren't chewed up (indicative of misalignment) then the belt technically might be OK although belts have both a "mileage" limit (that you are probably not past) and an "age" limit (that you probably ARE past). It's the same technology as timing belts in car engines.

Replacing that belt looks like a bear of a job. It's not like a chain that can be split and put back together with a master link. The whole belt is one piece. That means the swingarm has to come off so that you can get the belt around the swingarm pivot. That means you need to suspend the bike in some way so that the weight of it is off the rear suspension. It might have a center stand ... that will do.

Expect this to be a few hours of labour in addition to the cost of the parts.

Now, as for that belt ...

There is a fair chance that it uses an industry standard tooth pitch and width that is called "HTD" or a variation of it that I will describe below. https://www.torontogear.com/powerhouse-htd-belts/ Make some measurements.

Belts are available off the shelf in specified numbers of teeth. Count yours and compare to what's in that catalog. If it is an off the shelf belt (including tooth count) then you are all set. If it is an oddball then you are stuck buying the OEM Kawasaki belt.

Now - Important - Look for some manufacturer's markings on the belt. It would have originally been printed on the outside. If the manufacturer is Gates, then it is probably not an HTD belt, but a very similar one that is called Gates Poly Chain GT. For more info ... https://www.gates.com/resources/res...oly-chain-gt-carbon-belt-drive-systems-manual

If it is an HTD belt, you need the strongest and most durable one you can find ... not the cheapest. If it is a Gates Poly Chain GT, it already is. Do not mix up HTD and Poly Chain GT ... the belts and sprockets are similar (to the point of being hard to see the difference unless you can see manufacturer's markings) but not identical.

I had a service call years back because our company's purchasing department had a policy of taking whatever part number engineering specified and looking for the cheapest alternative. In the case of a timing belt drive on a rather expensive machine, where engineering specified a high-quality belt and purchasing substituted a cheap one, that didn't work out too well. I spotted the problem the moment I took the cover off. Don't cheap out on this part.

N.B. Judging by the way this final drive is designed, it might be possible to retrofit a chain drive. If someone has done it before, there's probably info on the internet for how to do it.
 
Re: 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900: Clunking noise update

I took the liberty of merging the two related threads on the same topic.

The photo that was taken of the drive area of the bike in question is so microscopically small that I can't see anything meaningful.

Number one thing to check is if the center nut on the pulley is tight. If it's loose as was shown in the video (of someone else's bike - we think) then it may have the same issue: The splines in the pulley are shot, probably because the pulley was not clamped properly because someone didn't tighten the center nut properly. If that's the case then the fix is the same: replace the pulley and this time tighten the center nut properly. The bent washer that the video points out is bent because that bent-over edge helps to retain the nut from loosening ... it isn't something wrong, it's supposed to be bent (and you have to bend it when installing the nut. If you don't, the nut will come loose. That bent-over edge is the only reason the center nut in the video didn't come off leading to the pulley in the video coming completely off the shaft.)

The second thing to check is whether the belt is good. I can't tell in the microscopic photo that was provided. If the teeth are all intact and it looks like the shape of the teeth meshes with the sprocket well and the edges of the pulley aren't chewed up (indicative of misalignment) then the belt technically might be OK although belts have both a "mileage" limit (that you are probably not past) and an "age" limit (that you probably ARE past). It's the same technology as timing belts in car engines.

Replacing that belt looks like a bear of a job. It's not like a chain that can be split and put back together with a master link. The whole belt is one piece. That means the swingarm has to come off so that you can get the belt around the swingarm pivot. That means you need to suspend the bike in some way so that the weight of it is off the rear suspension. It might have a center stand ... that will do.

Expect this to be a few hours of labour in addition to the cost of the parts.

In the second video he posted (https://youtu.be/sJk1L7m9-4s), the pulley doesn't appear to be loose, but it is spinning in the belt. Either the belt is really really loose or the teeth are gone.
 
Re: 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900: Clunking noise update

I took the liberty of merging the two related threads on the same topic.

The photo that was taken of the drive area of the bike in question is so microscopically small that I can't see anything meaningful.

Number one thing to check is if the center nut on the pulley is tight. If it's loose as was shown in the video (of someone else's bike - we think) then it may have the same issue: The splines in the pulley are shot, probably because the pulley was not clamped properly because someone didn't tighten the center nut properly. If that's the case then the fix is the same: replace the pulley and this time tighten the center nut properly. The bent washer that the video points out is bent because that bent-over edge helps to retain the nut from loosening ... it isn't something wrong, it's supposed to be bent (and you have to bend it when installing the nut. If you don't, the nut will come loose. That bent-over edge is the only reason the center nut in the video didn't come off leading to the pulley in the video coming completely off the shaft.)

The second thing to check is whether the belt is good. I can't tell in the microscopic photo that was provided. If the teeth are all intact and it looks like the shape of the teeth meshes with the sprocket well and the edges of the pulley aren't chewed up (indicative of misalignment) then the belt technically might be OK although belts have both a "mileage" limit (that you are probably not past) and an "age" limit (that you probably ARE past). It's the same technology as timing belts in car engines.

Replacing that belt looks like a bear of a job. It's not like a chain that can be split and put back together with a master link. The whole belt is one piece. That means the swingarm has to come off so that you can get the belt around the swingarm pivot. That means you need to suspend the bike in some way so that the weight of it is off the rear suspension. It might have a center stand ... that will do.

Expect this to be a few hours of labour in addition to the cost of the parts.

Now, as for that belt ...

There is a fair chance that it uses an industry standard tooth pitch and width that is called "HTD" or a variation of it that I will describe below. https://www.torontogear.com/powerhouse-htd-belts/ Make some measurements.

Belts are available off the shelf in specified numbers of teeth. Count yours and compare to what's in that catalog. If it is an off the shelf belt (including tooth count) then you are all set. If it is an oddball then you are stuck buying the OEM Kawasaki belt.

Now - Important - Look for some manufacturer's markings on the belt. It would have originally been printed on the outside. If the manufacturer is Gates, then it is probably not an HTD belt, but a very similar one that is called Gates Poly Chain GT. For more info ... https://www.gates.com/resources/res...oly-chain-gt-carbon-belt-drive-systems-manual

If it is an HTD belt, you need the strongest and most durable one you can find ... not the cheapest. If it is a Gates Poly Chain GT, it already is. Do not mix up HTD and Poly Chain GT ... the belts and sprockets are similar (to the point of being hard to see the difference unless you can see manufacturer's markings) but not identical.

I had a service call years back because our company's purchasing department had a policy of taking whatever part number engineering specified and looking for the cheapest alternative. In the case of a timing belt drive on a rather expensive machine, where engineering specified a high-quality belt and purchasing substituted a cheap one, that didn't work out too well. I spotted the problem the moment I took the cover off. Don't cheap out on this part.

N.B. Judging by the way this final drive is designed, it might be possible to retrofit a chain drive. If someone has done it before, there's probably info on the internet for how to do it.

Hey there brother. Thank you for your detailed reply, I really appreciate your time.
I apologize for the microscopic photo, I just took it from my iPhone and uploaded it, it’s supposed to be an HD picture.
So knowing me (not very educated when it comes to the technical and mechanical aspect of vehicles), I was worried about opening it up and putting it back together. But, I ended up taking it apart and putting it back together as it was.
When I took the side fairings and parts off, I finally got to the pulley. The teeth on the belt are gone. My other rider buddies at work told me that belts last from 70,000-100,000 kms, OR 8-10 years, whichever comes first. The bike has 28,600 kms and I bought it around 4 weeks ago, when it was 28,500. Because the bike is 2007, it’s obvious that the time limit is up.
Now, as for the belt, I was shocked to see the prices ranging from $300 to $400. Unfortunately I can’t count the teeth because plenty of them are gone. I don’t wanna spend too much money. The guy I bought it from will help me install the belt.


Rev ON
 
Re: 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900: Clunking noise update

You need someone competent to look at it. You obviously have a belt issue, but nobody can internet diagnosis any other issues that may also exist. You said you just bought it, likely the last owner did something wrong with belt tension (either too loose or too tight, my money is on too loose). I would want someone to look it over to make sure nothing else was messed up before more damage (or worse injury) occurs.

Belts are always expensive because they should last a very long time leading to a low cost per km if they aren't prematurely damaged.

PM Frekeyguy (he is also motomechto.com) for the lowest price you are going to find on competent repairs.

Good luck.

EDIT:
If the teeth aren't stripped out of the belt, you could theoretically tighten it up and ride it but I would very strongly advise against this. Your belt has clearly been damaged, if it breaks on the road it could get tangled in the rear wheel and cause a crash.

Thank you for your kind reply.
The last owner hardly rode it, but the owner prior to him probably did something on it, don’t know who it was.
My teeth are gone. I won’t be riding it until Buy the new belt, seems like the best course of action.


Rev ON
 
Re: 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900: Clunking noise update

Overtensioning or debris damage can wear out a drive belt prematurely, other than that they're stone reliable.
As I already suggested, you aren't likely to find anything other than the original Kawasaki replacement.
Bite the bullet, get it repaired and move along...

Thanks for your reply.
I can understand, I believe I’m just gonna have to do that.


Rev ON
 
From what I was able to find out, it looks to be a 153 tooth Gates belt that you can only buy from the dealership.

Make sure you understand what you are getting yourself into if doing the work yourself with a buddy. You may need some additional parts (gaskets perhaps) if taking off certain pieces to get to the belt.

Read the service manual for proper belt tightness and adjustment, and for proper torque on fasteners.

You may get lucky and also find some competent youtube videos that will help give a visual of the entire process.

OR...have the dealer or a competent mechanic do it and sleep well knowing it’s been done correctly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
From what I was able to find out, it looks to be a 153 tooth Gates belt that you can only buy from the dealership.

Make sure you understand what you are getting yourself into if doing the work yourself with a buddy. You may need some additional parts (gaskets perhaps) if taking off certain pieces to get to the belt.

Read the service manual for proper belt tightness and adjustment, and for proper torque on fasteners.

You may get lucky and also find some competent youtube videos that will help give a visual of the entire process.

OR...have the dealer or a competent mechanic do it and sleep well knowing it’s been done correctly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for your reply.
My co-worker told me that a belt is supposed to last 80-100k kms, or 10 years. The bike only has 28,000kms, so the age limit came first.
I bit the bullet and finally ordered the belt today, cost me $470, but that’s because I can only use the OEM belt by Kawasaki. Someone even told me that the false fuel indicator reading I was having may have been caused by the worn out belt.


Rev ON
 

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