GSXR, rpms rapidly increasing past 8k, not accelerating much | GTAMotorcycle.com

GSXR, rpms rapidly increasing past 8k, not accelerating much

HonDerpa500r

Well-known member
Hey guys, looks like the “mint” bike I bought a few weeks ago, isn’t so mint after all.
Either that, or I’m just dumb.

I just installed some shortly levers on my bike and took it out on the highway.
Once I got on the highway, I started accelerating in second, right around 8-9k rpm’s the rpm’s quickly climbed as if my tire broke free and I was just doing a rolling burnout, but the bike wasn’t accelerating as fast as the RPM make it seem like it should have. The bike was still accelerating, but not as quick as what it should have been or what it was below 8k rpm.

I’ve tested this in 2nd-5th gear, and have the same results. It’s kinda hard to get a real accurate description because at that speed, I’m already going above the speedlimit, so I didn’t do it for long.

I looked it up and a lot of people were having their bikes stopping at 8k rpm and not being able to go past it. One of the solutions was to adjust the clutch. Now, I just installed new levers on my bike and had to loosen the clutch cable to get the levers on/off. Is it possible it’s just I don’t have the clutch cable tension where it should be?

I’m open to all opinions. This never happened when I had the factory levers on, only after I pit the new ones on. But I don’t want to limit other possibilities of whats causing the issue if anyone else has an idea.
 
Clutch is slipping. Stop doing what you are doing, because if you continue, you will destroy the clutch plates and add hundreds of dollars to the repair bill ... assuming that the clutch plates are not already destroyed.

Make sure the cable at the clutch lever has at least some slack in it when released. You should also be able to feel slack in the cable at the bottom where it actuates the clutch mechanism itself. It should not be pulling (much) on the clutch release lever at the bottom when you are not pulling the clutch lever in at the top.

If there is slack in the cable with the clutch lever released then the slippage is internal to the clutch, which means you need to disassemble and inspect for damaged plates, broken springs, etc.

If the bike has a "slipper" clutch then they are very sensitive to the thickness of the clutch plates. Obtain the factory service manual and follow the instructions for servicing and assembling the clutch to the letter.
 
Clutch is slipping. Stop doing what you are doing, because if you continue, you will destroy the clutch plates and add hundreds of dollars to the repair bill ... assuming that the clutch plates are not already destroyed.

Make sure the cable at the clutch lever has at least some slack in it when released. You should also be able to feel slack in the cable at the bottom where it actuates the clutch mechanism itself. It should not be pulling (much) on the clutch release lever at the bottom when you are not pulling the clutch lever in at the top.

If there is slack in the cable with the clutch lever released then the slippage is internal to the clutch, which means you need to disassemble and inspect for damaged plates, broken springs, etc.

If the bike has a "slipper" clutch then they are very sensitive to the thickness of the clutch plates. Obtain the factory service manual and follow the instructions for servicing and assembling the clutch to the letter.

Those filthy gixxers also have an internal clutch adjuster.
 
You get the same effect in manual cars with a slipping clutch, you hit the gas and rpms climb but not much acceleration.

As Brian said, you need to adjust some slack into the cable on both ends. You need a gap between the lever and the 'base' of the handlebar where it slides back into. Typically it can be the width of 2 credit cards, but you want some free play there so the cable isn't being pulled right as you pull back the lever, let it have some play.

I had some shorty levers on my FZ briefly, i had all kinds of issues with shifts etc and was never happy with the clutch play so i put the stock ones back on. Smooth as silk yet again.
 
If it didn't do it before you put the new levers on, put the originals back on and try again.
A lot of those el cheapo levers are junk.
 
If it didn't do it before you put the new levers on, put the originals back on and try again.
A lot of those el cheapo levers are junk.

They’re straight out of the sweat shops in China. Are you telling me that’s not high quality?


thanks guys. I’ll go adjust the lever and take her for a ride to see what happens.
 
Just got back in. I had to loosen the clutch cable at the lever almost completely, leaving a tight 6 credit card gap in the lever. With that done, the clutch wasn't slipping at all. If I tighten up the tension at all, it'll start slipping.
With the factory level, the tension screw was out about half way and I didn't have any issues.

So what I'm assuming it is, is the cheap lever is designed so the cable pin at the end of the cable is further down the lever than the factory one, causing the cable to stretch further with the after market one..Which was solved by loosening off the tension on the cable at the screw.

I might switch back to factory, but I really like the looks of these new levers.
 

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