Rotella 15w 40 on sale at CT this weekend | GTAMotorcycle.com

Rotella 15w 40 on sale at CT this weekend

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If you use dino Rotella CT has it at $60 for the 18.9 pail. You're never going to find a lower per L price.
 
Thankyou :D excavator needs a spring oil change. Now all I need is about 45 gallons of hydraulic oil, 6 pounds of grease and I'm good to go.
 
Thx, will pickup a pail, both bikes will need oil changes not far into the riding season this year.
 
Thankyou :D excavator needs a spring oil change. Now all I need is about 45 gallons of hydraulic oil, 6 pounds of grease and I'm good to go.

Pm sent
 
18.9 litres is a lot of oil changes....

The oil change interval on my bike is something like 10,000K as per the manual, I tend to do it around 8,000K, it needs 4L per change, and I ride around 20,000K/season, so including the spring change I need about 12L just for my bike this summer.

My wife rides around 10,000 / season and I’ll chsnge hers probably once through the season at ~4L as well.

That’s the better part of a pail in a season.

If my wife rides more than expected this year (which is possible as we have a full week planned around Americade this year, plus all our regular riding) I may do 2 changes on her bike this year.
 
Mobil 1 for the car is also 50% off
 
Bike calls for 10w, should I still send it?
Yes. My bike calls for 10w40, I use rotella 5w40 no issues.

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Got my pail this morning, $69 out the door. Bikes should all be happy by Monday.
 
Gallon jugs are going to be 15% off for the next week starting tomorrow... not the lowest it's ever been, but better than full price
 
Yes. My bike calls for 10w40, I use rotella 5w40 no issues.

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me too, full synth T6
great for cold starts
IMHO the dino 15/40 is to heavy when it's cold
fine for the summer
 
This stuff resulted in two Husqvarna TE race enduros not being able to move...total clutch slippage. Had to drop the fresh oil changes and go back to Motul. There must be too many friction modifiers in it. Be warned.

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This stuff resulted in two Husqvarna TE race enduros not being able to move...total clutch slippage. Had to drop the fresh oil changes and go back to Motul. There must be too many friction modifiers in it. Be warned.

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Are you sure you weren't using T5?
 
That's funny, since thousands of Husky/KTM owners (including me) use T6 in their mx/enduro bikes with no issues. Same for Yamaha MX and enduro owners.
That's the only two brands of offroad bikes I can speak of since they're what I know/own.
 
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Are you sure you weren't using T5?

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Always this same disagreement over Rotella. Some swear by it while others won't touch it.

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I have no reason to badmouth this oil, I was looking for the same savings as you are. I researched and found a dozen or more stories of the same occurrence. As a mechanic myself, it was puzzling, yet it occurred. Both bikes had to be pushed home. Both in gear revving and going nowhere. The general consensus out there is that there are too many friction modifiers in this oil for some clutches. Given the low mileage on both bikes, < 1000 km's at the time, it's not a wear issue. One is a BMW Husqvarna (2013)and the other an Italian Husqvarna (2010). Both responded the same way to this oil. If you research, you will find these same testimonials. I bought six jugs and ended up using them in my cars.
That's funny, since thousands of Husky/KTM owners (including me) use T6 in their mx/enduro bikes with no issues. Same for Yamaha MX and enduro owners.
That's the only two brands of offroad bikes I can speak of since they're what I know/own.

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33. CAN WET CLUTCH MOTORCYLES USE AUTOMOTIVE MOTOR OILS?The controversy about whether or not wet clutch motorcycles really require a special motorcycle oil, is a commonly debated topic on Internet Motorcycle Forums. And questions about all that have come up in this Blog’s Q&A Section a number of times over the past year or so. It has to do with claims that wet clutch motorcycles can experience clutch slippage if 5W30 Automotive “Resource Conserving” motor oils are used. But, the problem with that claim is that many motorcyclists use a variety of 5W30 Automotive “Resource Conserving” motor oils in their motorcycles with no problem at all.

I have an extensive background with motorcycles. Before College, I spent the early part of my technical career first inside the Japanese Motorcycle Industry at the Dealer level in the Service Department, then later, inside at the Corporate level, in the Motorcycle Service Division. Because of that experience inside the Industry, I do NOT trust the Japanese Motorcycle Industry nor the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (or JASO for short), to do the right thing. One of the reasons I don’t trust them, is because they made a huge, completely unnecessary change many years ago, that created the reason we are even talking about all this in the first place.

Motorcycle clutches used to be properly Engineered with the correct amount of spring pressure for excellent performance and trouble free operation. But, later the Japanese Motorcycle Industry decided that they wanted the clutch lever pull to be lighter, to make their bikes seem “nicer”, in order to appeal to a broader audience to increase sales and profits. So, they violated proper Engineering design in order to follow that Marketing goal. In doing so, they reduced clutch spring pressure so much, that the clutch lever pull became light enough for an 85 year old Great Grandmother with arthritis to operate it. Now, all this discussion about what oil is required, is nothing more than a “work around plan” to deal with that Marketing driven mistake.

If motorcycle clutches had continued with sufficient spring pressure, as proper Engineering calls for, there would be no talk about a supposed need for so-called motorcycle oil. But, the Japanese Motorcycle Industry and JASO came up with the idea of “motorcycle oil” to address the newer poor clutch design they created just for Marketing reasons. How convenient for them. Now they can increase their profits by selling their own motorcycle oil, to try and cover up what they did, rather than lose face and go back to proper clutch design. They obviously believe that two wrongs, make a right. Nothing is ever what it appeared to be at first glance. And once people know what actually went on in the background, they really have their eyes opened.

And adding to all this, is the fact that JASO does not post any specific test data showing the actual “difference” between so-called Motorcycle oils that they want you to buy, and Automotive oils that they don’t want you to buy. All they post is a list of oils that supposedly meet their requirements. There is no transparency at all, for people to actually know what is truly going on. All that secrecy regarding hiding their test data, makes many people think that the whole motorcycle oil requirement is nothing but a scam, especially since no problem shows up in the real world in most cases. As a comparison, I post “ALL” the data that comes out of my Engineering testing, for the whole world to see.

So, what is a motorcycle owner to do? Investigation reveals that reports of motorcycle clutch slippage with 5W30 Resource Conserving Automotive motor oil, comes from high mileage motorcycles, that have old worn clutches, which are glazed, hardened, and have lost their normal gripping capability. “High mileage” is the common thread between all clutch slippage complaints, but the particular oil being used is not. You don’t come across reports of slippage with wet clutches that are new or are in good condition.

An Engineer Colleague of mine has a wet clutch 2006 Suzuki GSXR 1000cc Sport Bike with around 7,000 miles on it. He is running 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability synthetic, Resource Conserving Automotive motor oil in it. And he has not had any problems at all with the clutch or shifting.
Simply put, it is NOT true to say that wet clutch motorcycles cannot use 5W30 Resource Conserving Automotive oil.

The fact is:
Virtually any wet clutch motorcycle will work just fine with most any automotive oil, including 5W30 Resource Conserving oil, as long as the clutch is in good condition.
______________


From an awesome page written by a mechanical engineer on a variety of different topics, mostly pertaining to oil. If you really want to see what oils protect against wear its a good (long) read. Putting it in quotes seems to ruin the paragraphs so I took it off.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

 
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enormous *** post

Before you start that argument here again I would like to point out that according to Shell, Rotella T4 & T6 meet JASO-MA2 specifications and are as such technically motorcycle oils

I have no reason to badmouth this oil, I was looking for the same savings as you are. I researched and found a dozen or more stories of the same occurrence. As a mechanic myself, it was puzzling, yet it occurred. Both bikes had to be pushed home. Both in gear revving and going nowhere. The general consensus out there is that there are too many friction modifiers in this oil for some clutches. Given the low mileage on both bikes, < 1000 km's at the time, it's not a wear issue. One is a BMW Husqvarna (2013)and the other an Italian Husqvarna (2010). Both responded the same way to this oil. If you research, you will find these same testimonials. I bought six jugs and ended up using them in my cars.

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Fair enough. Of course this is anecdote vs anecdote, but I've been using it for years in different bikes and have never had clutch issues. Using it right now in my CB919, even
 

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