May just need a hone with new rings, or a bore over? No need to throw out the baby with the bathwater
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High mileage riders. Some advice needed
- Thread starter CageyB
- Start date
Sure but at a litre-ish every 7000 km (which is more than what I'd recommend as an oil change interval!) it's not a concern. It would use half a litre during what I'd consider to be a normal oil change interval. You wouldn't even really have to add anything between oil changes, just keep an eye on it in case anything suddenly changes.
Even if and when it does start increasing - Adding oil is cheaper than a rebuild ...
The newer engines that use plated aluminum cylinders (I'm not sure if the SV650 is one of them) supposedly can't be honed using standard honing tools and obtain a good surface finish. In fact, one of my bikes is an oil-burner because of this. The factory service manual recommends "nothing" i.e. replace the crankcases, the cylinders are built into the upper crankcase on this and a lot of newer engines. It doesn't say anything special about re-ringing. Other people said hone it like normal. Other people said you had to send the engine block out for a special procedure to be done. Others had work-arounds.
Given conflicting information, I followed the shop manual "nothing" although I knew the cylinder walls were a mirror finish. (If I didn't hone the cylinders and should have, I could always go in later and do it. If I did hone the cylinders and shouldn't have, the engine was ruined. So, "nothing" was the way to go.) Result ... High oil consumption, about a litre every 1000 km. It needs to be honed ... somehow.
Even if and when it does start increasing - Adding oil is cheaper than a rebuild ...
The newer engines that use plated aluminum cylinders (I'm not sure if the SV650 is one of them) supposedly can't be honed using standard honing tools and obtain a good surface finish. In fact, one of my bikes is an oil-burner because of this. The factory service manual recommends "nothing" i.e. replace the crankcases, the cylinders are built into the upper crankcase on this and a lot of newer engines. It doesn't say anything special about re-ringing. Other people said hone it like normal. Other people said you had to send the engine block out for a special procedure to be done. Others had work-arounds.
Given conflicting information, I followed the shop manual "nothing" although I knew the cylinder walls were a mirror finish. (If I didn't hone the cylinders and should have, I could always go in later and do it. If I did hone the cylinders and shouldn't have, the engine was ruined. So, "nothing" was the way to go.) Result ... High oil consumption, about a litre every 1000 km. It needs to be honed ... somehow.
matt365
Well-known member
Isn't it a "Nicasil" coating. Not sure I have that right.
Why not just source a spare engine at that point. Find a low mileage crunchy zx10.
Your bike was puffing pretty good the tail end of last season. Has it gotten any worse?
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blackcamaro
Well-known member
Right or wrong I don't know but when rebuilding my 2 strokes with nikasil plating I use a scotchbrite pad with some kerosene scrubbing up and down and then side to side to rough up the finish a little bit. If it's shiny and you can't see the crosshatch anymore probably time to send it out for replating.
I'm not enthusiastic about buying an unknown engine with unknown problems as opposed to having one that I know what's in it and what the history is.
Oil consumption has been about the same since the engine was apart (about 25,000 km ago) which is why I haven't really done anything about it - high, but steady, oil consumption, and it runs well enough despite the oil usage. I originally had it apart to fix an alternator drive issue on that particular model year which Kawasaki quietly fixed for 2005.
I may pull it apart this coming winter, we'll see.
Oil consumption has been about the same since the engine was apart (about 25,000 km ago) which is why I haven't really done anything about it - high, but steady, oil consumption, and it runs well enough despite the oil usage. I originally had it apart to fix an alternator drive issue on that particular model year which Kawasaki quietly fixed for 2005.
I may pull it apart this coming winter, we'll see.
matt365
Well-known member
Alot of riders get scared off of higher mileage bikes.
My vtr has 98,000k. I was trying to roll it over this season, but its not going to happen.
And I have a spare bike with a low mileage engine incase it ever does pop.
If it has regular maintenance, its no problem. Most street bikes that I hear about blowing up the engine are usually beat to hell, oil never changed or checked; or the owner does something way out of their skill level, like trying to shim the valves, mess up the timing, and the valves contact the piston.
I am all for learning how to do the job yourself, but screw-ups get costly.
High mileage and maintained is better than low mileage and abused.
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My vtr has 98,000k. I was trying to roll it over this season, but its not going to happen.
And I have a spare bike with a low mileage engine incase it ever does pop.
If it has regular maintenance, its no problem. Most street bikes that I hear about blowing up the engine are usually beat to hell, oil never changed or checked; or the owner does something way out of their skill level, like trying to shim the valves, mess up the timing, and the valves contact the piston.
I am all for learning how to do the job yourself, but screw-ups get costly.
High mileage and maintained is better than low mileage and abused.
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Riceburner
Well-known member
120k on one of mine, engine and tranny are just fine. Just need wear items(tires, brake pads, chain and sprockets) refreshed.
matt365
Well-known member
My linkage bearings were seized. I did rear wheel bearings too. They were sounding "gritty". Crush drive rubbers get pretty hard by that point as well.
Its a lot of nickel and dime stuff when the mileage gets up there.
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I wouldn't worry about that amount of burnt oil.
My 2013 K1300S burns about 1L every 6000km.
My 2007 DL650 burns (or leaks) about 1L every 4000km.
Just helps remind me to get their oil changed at 5000km.
I kept my 2000 VFR800 on the road until 187000km when it cooked its third stator/R&R. It was inconvenient to get repaired (I was overseas) and I was concerned it was starting to eat components at its age, so I sold it for parts. Probably a mistake, but whatever, bought another!
My 2013 K1300S burns about 1L every 6000km.
My 2007 DL650 burns (or leaks) about 1L every 4000km.
Just helps remind me to get their oil changed at 5000km.
I kept my 2000 VFR800 on the road until 187000km when it cooked its third stator/R&R. It was inconvenient to get repaired (I was overseas) and I was concerned it was starting to eat components at its age, so I sold it for parts. Probably a mistake, but whatever, bought another!
fearlessbob
Well-known member
132,000 km on my 2002 Blackbird. Motul 7100 and Purolator One filters, changed every 6-7000 kms. Burns/loses zero oil.
But as others pointed out, different engines have different standards for what is "normal" oil consumption.
But as others pointed out, different engines have different standards for what is "normal" oil consumption.
slowbird
Well-known member
CageyB, have you thought about doing an Oil Analysis? I only mention it since you say the bike is your baby.
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/I've been using them for many many years on many cars and bikes I have owned. It's not expensive and the kits are free.
You can send them a sample and mention about the oil consumption and your concerns and they can let you know if they find anything.
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/I've been using them for many many years on many cars and bikes I have owned. It's not expensive and the kits are free.
You can send them a sample and mention about the oil consumption and your concerns and they can let you know if they find anything.
My 2000 VFR was at 110,000 km when I traded in last Spring. Dealer did compression test and it was at top shape and I never added any oil other than oil change. It was still at top running condition. Only reason for trading it in was for the lubless shaft drive and the factory panniers for the long rides that I normally do these days.
Does that mean you have to change your name?
slowbird
Well-known member
That's a VFR though. They are known for running forever with basic maintenance and little to no valve clearance work.
boyoboy
Well-known member
imo the oil should be getting changed more often than 7000kms. 5000 kms is my regular oil change time. 7000kms / L is normal usage.
Synthetic can go twice the distance ....7k km is fine for synthetic
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