Need help - sag, master cylinder, header leak

boyoboy said:

why two fat people? sag should be set with the weight of the person(s) most often on the bike. Im gone. Way too much bad advice here (on setting sag), and I do not know why you wouldn't educate yourself by watching a 20 minute vid.

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That is if he wanted to determine total travel to set sag as a percentage (without having to disconnect the shock as it sounds like it is in an ugly location). Obviously most of the sport bike people are setting sag without looking at total travel (probably because most sport bikes have a similar total travel?) so determining total travel does not seem necessary in this case.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtzTyCKh5fY

10 minutes of your time.

Internet has a published figure for rear wheel travel of 112mm, I think a bit less than a true supersport. Rule of thumb advice seems to vary wildly from 20-35% of travel?

boyoboy said:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtzTyCKh5fY

10 minutes of your time.

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This is just how to measure sag, I already know to do that. I gave the measurement in the first post

TwistedKestrel said:

3. The fit on the exhaust is pretty terrible. I expected better from Hindle, but the time for taking that up with them was probably ten years ago. It leaks at one or more of the flanges the header connects to. The original installation instructions said to use high-temp RTV on the joints and that was not done, will that actually work or is that a waste of time?

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Did you remove and replace the exhaust gaskets at the head? It can be hard to tell if the old one is in there or if its gone, cause they get mashed up and covered in carbon. Sometimes people put new ones on top of old ones without realizing, or don't put one in at all

Edit: I see this was already addressed earlier on, my bad

TwistedKestrel said:

Rule of thumb advice seems to vary wildly from 20-35% of travel?

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I would expect big changes with the type of surface and spring rate. Eg. If you are working with a spring that is too stiff, backing the preload off to allow more sag would allow you to use more of your travel or if the spring was too soft, cranking in preload to reduce sag and try to prevent bottoming out is reasonable. Obviously the proper spring rate is important and as your bike was setup previously by someone that knew what they were doing (presumably) for your weight you should be good to go there. Others have already commented about geometry changes that can be brought about through changing sag, that is more advanced than my knowledge of suspension tuning.

For the brake issue. I have a set of those 6 pot gsxr calipers....they are with lines, low kms calipers.
they are yours if you want to come grab them.

I've used a radial master from a newer zx10 with those clipers and longer lines