anyone ever used a rear thumb brake on their dirt bike? | GTAMotorcycle.com

anyone ever used a rear thumb brake on their dirt bike?

If you have a KTM or Husky, look at OxBrake. They look to be the simplest option if they make something for your model. If I had a KTM I would have gone this route. (edit: I see that OxBrake now offers models for many other manufacturers)

I eventually ended up with a Clake 2. It is a combined low-effort clutch and left hand rear brake with independent levers. It is ridiculously expensive, but it is really nice on the trails.
 
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In terms of functionality, I really do like having control of the brake with a hand rather than a foot. The main reason is that it is way easier to modulate. The stock brake lever was basically an on/off switch, and not having much experience with MX boots I literally couldn't feel whether I was on the brake or not until the rear end started to come around. A heavier return spring helped a bit, but then it was too heavy to acuate to save looping out when I was practicing wheelies.

Aside from the modulation, it is also nice when flying down sketchy downhills, rather than trying to crank your foot so far down while keeping your weight backwards.
 
I use a Rekluse rear brake on my left hand, but I do not use a thumb brake... main reason is because when you are standing on a dirt bike, it is unpractical to use your thumb, teh angle of your hand doesn't really allow for it.

Having the hand rear brake is so far the best mod I have done to my bike, it helps me when I am down hill, turning right .... basically I use it all the time, the rekluse system allows you to keep your foot operated rear brake so i can alternate according to the moment's need.

Cost me about 250 US but IMO it was worth it every penny.

This is the setup, you can use it under your clutch lever or over depending of your preference.


Rekluse-2.jpg



was wondering about this. like or no like? comments? cost?
 
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that rekluse is cool. thanks for all the comments folks. if this allows you to keep your foot operated brake, do they use some sort of check valve between the two master cyl's? or do you just double banjo the caliper?
 
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The rear brake master inset (dont know what that is called) is replaced by an insert that that a banjo connection at the top, that allows you to run a line to the front while keeping the original line to the rear brake.

adapter_chopped-500x300.png

that rekluse is cool. thanks for all the comments folks. if this allows you to keep your foot operated brake, do they use some sort of check valve between the two master cyl's? or do you just double banjo the caliper?
 
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The Clake offers the same sort of thing if you want it. I got the simpler kit where the foot pedal and master cylinder are deleted and the line just runs straight from the hand lever to the rear caliper
 
Aside from the modulation, it is also nice when flying down sketchy downhills, rather than trying to crank your foot so far down while keeping your weight backwards.

Your rear brake pedal needs to be adjusted. Try raising the pedal higher up (back out the screw on the opposite side of the pivot from the pedal). It will take a few tries to find the best adjustment and you will love the rear on the first few stops on a flat ground, but once you put some hours on you will LOVE the downhill control (unless you don't care and already only use the hand brake).
 
Your rear brake pedal needs to be adjusted. Try raising the pedal higher up (back out the screw on the opposite side of the pivot from the pedal). It will take a few tries to find the best adjustment and you will love the rear on the first few stops on a flat ground, but once you put some hours on you will LOVE the downhill control (unless you don't care and already only use the hand brake).

The pedal and original master cylinder are in a bin in my garage now, so it needs a bit more than an adjustment. =) I did play around with the pedal height a bit, but having it adjusted to work well when my butt was on the rear fender for steep downhills made it way too high for the other 95% of the time when I was just standing on the pegs normally.

The LHRB kit that retains the foot pedal would probably be the better choice for most people, but I went with just the hand lever kit because it was cheaper and I knew the Clake already had a reputation for being difficult to bleed without throwing the 2-into-1 adapter into the mix.
 
The pedal and original master cylinder are in a bin in my garage now, so it needs a bit more than an adjustment. =) I did play around with the pedal height a bit, but having it adjusted to work well when my butt was on the rear fender for steep downhills made it way too high for the other 95% of the time when I was just standing on the pegs normally.

The LHRB kit that retains the foot pedal would probably be the better choice for most people, but I went with just the hand lever kit because it was cheaper and I knew the Clake already had a reputation for being difficult to bleed without throwing the 2-into-1 adapter into the mix.

lol all of the hand brake kits are impossible to bleed... I spend hours on a time span of 5 days getting mine to bleed.

However I also find the y are not meant to be as the front brake, they are spongy and now that I have used it for a while I see why.

I would still rather have also my regular foot brake that's why i went with the reckluse, and I think it is still cheaper than the regular clark... I do like the lever system on the clark, ingenious little ****er
 
Yeah, I would have 100% tried the OxBrake first if it had been available for my model when I was looking. The price isn't even in the same ballpark as the other options, plus you don't have to mess with your existing hydraulic system. It sounds like it typically does not offer enough power to lock the rear, but that's not a bad thing since you still have the pedal.
 
Few variables at play .... like speed, surface, traction overall .... but I found that on sandy surface (which is what I ride 90% of time) for the most time, it would lock up, if I wanted to. But I can see where under certain conditions it will not have enough force as you mentioned. I kind of expected that as I wanted something simple and something which would help me to get me bailed out when stuck uphill, braking when standing etc. and for that it works great 100%.
 

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