riding a MC too long is bad for riding a bicycle | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

riding a MC too long is bad for riding a bicycle

fastar1 said:
I remember when I took the rider training course, I had no MC experience but tons of cycling and performance driving experience. When it came to the emergency braking exercise, my instinct was to mash the left lever, feather the right level, and stomp the pedal under my right foot. That lead to loud squealing and rubber wastage, not much stopping.

Then another student told me to forget about the rear brake and focus on the front, and it freed up enough mental resources that I could apply to the right lever only, and get it right. Now I seem to have triple emergency braking instincts; one each for driving, cycling, and biking.
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Actually now that I think about it, I remember I was PUMPING the clutch lever trying to feel for the braking threshold point!

Also remember first time on the highway, just couldn't go over 80 because it felt like the bike wouldn't to turn if I needed it to, expecting it to feel like a bicycle. Then I eventually learned how to force a bike to turn or to swerve, no thanks to the parking lot course.
 
crankcall said:
'Canadian tire' bikes have disc brakes that arent alot better than the old caliper style.
I didnt think pulling in the clutch and grabbing the front brake was the fastest way to stop a mc, doesnt that lose the engine braking component?

I tend to ride my bicycle slow enough that stopping quick is never a problem, my given'er days are long past. I do like to cycle and living in Milton we had some pretty nice roads, but our traffic is really becoming a challenge
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With emergency braking you don't have time to engine brake and if you try you risk stalling the engine.
 
Been riding 10+ years. In all that time, the only time I high-sided was on a bicycle. Broke my wrist.
 
kwtoxman said:
No issues here, though I try to bike a lot. Mountain biking trails all the time and street too. Trips to the rockies. Have done 2000 km in a year. Did a 43 km mountain bike ride last weekend. I definitely respect the brakes on my mountain bike (am careful with them), though you get what you pay for; the replacement value of the bike would be over $6k, and more if I did a parts build.
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My mountain bike was under $1000 and the brakes are phenomenal.
 
crankcall said:
'Canadian tire' bikes have disc brakes that arent alot better than the old caliper style.
I didnt think pulling in the clutch and grabbing the front brake was the fastest way to stop a mc, doesnt that lose the engine braking component?

I tend to ride my bicycle slow enough that stopping quick is never a problem, my given'er days are long past. I do like to cycle and living in Milton we had some pretty nice roads, but our traffic is really becoming a challenge
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Disc brakes can be mechanical or hydraulic. Mechanical are essentially a calliper on a disc rather than the rim.
 
Chaos said:
Been riding 10+ years. In all that time, the only time I high-sided was on a bicycle. Broke my wrist.
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That takes skill, normally once a bike starts sliding it's gone.

JoeBass I have never found a hill in Ontario that challenges brakes (assuming your bike isn't running sidepulls on chromed steel rims). Just sit up tall with wide elbows and knees and let the wind keep your speed down (should top out somewhere around 40 to 50 km/h). Trying to get up to 70+ starts to take a lot of work to make yourself small.

Nobbie, can you add a brake to the sidecar wheel to help you out? If your bike doesn't have mounting points for disc brakes, yes it is a lot of work and probably not worthwhile in most instances. If you are rebuilding it, can you make it a legal ebike and use regenerative braking?
 
redridernl said:
Disc brakes can be mechanical or hydraulic. Mechanical are essentially a calliper on a disc rather than the rim.
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True, but my hydraulics were still on a calliper and not on the rims.

If as you state "Disc brakes can be mechanical or hydraulic ".....does that not imply the use of a disc/calliper.

No sarcasm intended just trying to clarify.
How do hydraulic disc brakes work on a rim?
New to me but intrigued as to concept.

Full disclosure: I have a few bikes , mountain, electric, hybrid, crosstrail, fat bike etc and always looking to change it up.
 
Kedo said:
True, but my hydraulics were still on a calliper and not on the rims.

If as you state "Disc brakes can be mechanical or hydraulic ".....does that not imply the use of a disc/calliper.

No sarcasm intended just trying to clarify.
How do hydraulic disc brakes work on a rim?
New to me but intrigued as to concept.
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When he says mechanical he means cable operated where the cable pulls a lever that moves a cam or worm/pinion mechanism, pushing the pad against the disc.

And just to confuse you, there are hydraulic rim brakes, and cable operated hydraulic disc brakes as well.
 
FullMotoJacket said:
When he says mechanical he means cable operated where the cable pulls a lever that moves a cam or worm/pinion mechanism, pushing the pad against the disc.

And just to confuse you, there are hydraulic rim brakes, and cable operated hydraulic disc brakes as well.
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Got it..Thx FMJ.

On a side note.
Any link or brands of a hydraulic rim brake for me to look up or is it and oddity.....I generally tend to be a Specialized or Trek guy so was not aware.
 
Riceburner said:
Exactly. Was taught ages ago to pull in and push down. Levers in and feet push down.


Joe doesn't make a very good air brake....
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...more like a sail.

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@GreyGhost no clue. Not a bike guy. Will take a pic. But if I had to guess, yes, side pull chrome rim.

bc25a6e8221ee84c9d78ad1c7d90dad1.jpg
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sent from my Purple LGG4 on the GTAM app
 
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Kedo said:
Got it..Thx FMJ.

On a side note.
Any link or brands of a hydraulic rim brake for me to look up or is it and oddity.....I generally tend to be a Specialized or Trek guy so was not aware.
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The most common ones were Magura HS-33s. There were a few other fringe brands like IBC.

04_bici_mtb_freno_hidraulico_llanta_magura_hs33.jpg
 
Joe Bass said:
@GreyGhost no clue. Not a bike guy. Will take a pic. But if I had to guess, yes, side pull chrome rim.

b1185b93faed1e9f37f97b854338e8bc.jpg

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Shimano (LX?) cantilever brakes, Sun aluminum rims. Decent, if set up properly. With Shimano A/B straddle cables there's only one way to do it right. Those are set up right (the line on the hanger lines up with the cable). Pads are the weak link. Some Kool Stop Eagle Claw II pads toed in correctly and you're good to go......or stop.
 
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You can swap the levers left to right and ride "moto controls" Now the front brake is on the same side (and if you blindly grab a fist full on either "bike" you are in trouble) the the rear is on the clutch side (may lock your rear in the emergency stop). I did this to all my bicycles....I have swapped them all back now.
 
Never had an issue switching between the 2. I come from a XC/DH racing background and was first worried about this on the Motorcycle. But my body seems to know the difference. But after taking some motorcycle courses I have found that most riders I met going to get their M would probably have a hard time riding a bicycle and here they are with a Harley and a dream...
 
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DejaVu said:
http://surestop.bike/

Somebody is marketing a single-lever braking system. Solves all your problems just like that
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They routed the cable from the brake lever, through the rear brake then back up to the front brake. I would say good luck modulating that but it won't be a problem as there will be so much cable friction, you couldn't get enough braking force to get you in trouble. That system will be so touchy to setup and setup on the target bikes is barely marginal at the best of times. I'm amazed that it's not on kickstarter, it seems perfect for that platform.

EDIT:
I was slightly off on some of my comments. The lever only controls the rear brake. The pads slide forward to pull the front brake cable. I would love to see tests of how long stopping distances are with this thing.

EDIT 2:
From their website:
n general the traditional braking system stopped faster than the Slidepad system when both levers were engaged by knowledgeable and experience riders Rob Evans and Chris Monson.
In these tests the Slidepad braking system performed about the same for wet and dry conditions,
In these tests, the front wheel of the Slidepad system never locked up. No attempt was made to lock up the front wheel of the traditional system for safety reasons.

Of course the front wheel never locked up. The braking power sucks. You could achieve similar results by switching to super hard pads on the front brake. You can't flip over the bars because you only have leisurely deceleration. Honestly, how many department store bikes (the target market) actually have the brakes set up well enough coming out of the store for you to flip? I know sportchek used to make customers sign a release that said the bike was assembled but before being ridden they should take it to a proper bicycle mechanic to ensure it was safe to ride.

In their videos, stopping distance from ~20 km/h is way longer than it should be from 40 km/h with good brakes (therefore something like 1/4 of the braking power).
 
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FullMotoJacket said:
The most common ones were Magura HS-33s. There were a few other fringe brands like IBC.

04_bici_mtb_freno_hidraulico_llanta_magura_hs33.jpg
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The thing people forget about rim hydroponic rim brakes is they eat away the wheels sidewall structure. Causing sidewall blowout(rim wall giving out) or even folding the rim. This happens with regular rim brakes but most will never put that many kms on the bike to see it happen. Oh the memories
 
Thanks @FullMotoJacket. Once the deck is done, I will look into those pads. Cyclepath should carry them in stock? Or do you think I need to order them?

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