Maybe a parts fiche or service manual will indicate what's under the bolt head but if it's typical rubber mount it should have the top hat like spacer. If I was there it would be out by now. You might have gas leak or something but the bolt would be out.
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Left handed drill bit needed ASAP - Where to buy or who has them
- Thread starter -D-
- Start date
-D-
Banned
Ok, have at it. I will provide candles for you.
Ez out. It's actually a left handed bit made for just this type of application.. screws.etc.. Rona..
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app
A regular drill bit roughly the size of the threaded portion of that bolt will do. Drill centered, down to the threaded portion, and the head will pop off. From there the remaining threaded stud should be removable with a vise grip. If it is still seized try soaking it in penetrating oil for a few hours. If that doesn't work grind the remaining bolt flush and use a drill bit roughly the size of the bolt to drill down the first couple threads, then drill a smaller hole 1/4 inch down. From there use reverse, should spin right out. most seized bolts lock in the first 1-2 threads in my experience. Left handed drill bits are nice, but not necessary imo
kwtoxman
Well-known member
Not a lot of wrenchers here, lol. I have a set, but I'm far from local. Ebay is a great place to get a great price on them if you can wait for shipping.
E.g. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/300359662061?rmvSB=true
E.g. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/300359662061?rmvSB=true
-D-
Banned
update
I got the head off the bolt and lifted the tank.
There is a about 1 inch of the bolt sticking up.
I got a bolt extractor kit and tired with that but the bolt was not moving, felt like I was going to snap the bit.
I tried to turn the rest of the bolt but it will not budge.
I sprayed it with Jig-a-loo (all that I had to try to get into shaft to release the bolt).
I can try using a torch to apply heat to the frame to maybe loosen the bolt.
Before I do that...is there is a more effective penetrating oil to try?
At least I can continue to finish getting the other items completed.
I got the head off the bolt and lifted the tank.
There is a about 1 inch of the bolt sticking up.
I got a bolt extractor kit and tired with that but the bolt was not moving, felt like I was going to snap the bit.
I tried to turn the rest of the bolt but it will not budge.
I sprayed it with Jig-a-loo (all that I had to try to get into shaft to release the bolt).
I can try using a torch to apply heat to the frame to maybe loosen the bolt.
Before I do that...is there is a more effective penetrating oil to try?
At least I can continue to finish getting the other items completed.
I've had decent luck with PB blaster (I think, I normally pre-spray bolts that look like they will be trouble, so I can't comment on if the spray actually helped or not). If your bolt is as stuck as it seems, I'm not sure any magic liquid will help.
Have you tried hitting the bolt stub with a hammer? Sometimes the shock can help free things up.
With 1" sticking up, I would try vice grips done up balls tight with a cheater bar.
"I just grounded out the allen head bolt (made from soft aluminum)."
Probably galling if it's an aluminum bolt.
For home brew penetrating fluid use ATF fluid and acetone, 1:1.
For just one bolt you can get enough ATF off the dip stick from your car. The acetone you might have at home in the form of nail polish remover, ABS/PVC pipe cleaner (not the cement!), or paint thinner.
j_e_f_f_williams
Well-known member
+1 on ATF fluid and acetone penetrating mixture
+1 on heat (after a while of sitting) but if its a AL bolt then heat then wait then heat then wait a few cycles as the AL bolt will expand more than the steel. It helps free things up but you don't want to try to extract it when the AL bolt is expanded due to heat
when you get the fastener out remember to put anti-seize on it so that you don't more galling next time. And if possible run a tap through the whole to clean up the threads before putting in the new bolt.
If you can center up on the bolt really well get it as flat as possible on the top and do a really good centers punch mark on it. Use a small drill bit and try to go through the centre of the bolt. Work up in sizes a bit but even if you get to 1/2 the size of the threaded hole that helps. The removal of the center of the bolt can sometimes let it contract a bit while turning especially after heating it so it will come out easier.
You sure the bolt is AL? Checked with magnet? Otherwise 1" sticking up you could also take it to someone to weld a nut on the top to give you something to turn with. Still can with AL but then you need TIG and a suitable nut etc
Jeff
+1 on heat (after a while of sitting) but if its a AL bolt then heat then wait then heat then wait a few cycles as the AL bolt will expand more than the steel. It helps free things up but you don't want to try to extract it when the AL bolt is expanded due to heat
when you get the fastener out remember to put anti-seize on it so that you don't more galling next time. And if possible run a tap through the whole to clean up the threads before putting in the new bolt.
If you can center up on the bolt really well get it as flat as possible on the top and do a really good centers punch mark on it. Use a small drill bit and try to go through the centre of the bolt. Work up in sizes a bit but even if you get to 1/2 the size of the threaded hole that helps. The removal of the center of the bolt can sometimes let it contract a bit while turning especially after heating it so it will come out easier.
You sure the bolt is AL? Checked with magnet? Otherwise 1" sticking up you could also take it to someone to weld a nut on the top to give you something to turn with. Still can with AL but then you need TIG and a suitable nut etc
Jeff
-D-
Banned
Yes, AL bolt because my magnet did not pickup the metal shavings from drilling off the head. There was a lot of shavings.
Ethereal
Well-known member
Heat up the bolt(Not red hot) and cool then repeat adding PB in between, this will release the corrosion letting the PB blaster soak in a little. The 50/50 atf and acetone mix is total BS do not waste your time on that farmers tale(Its been proven BS by many tests yet still pops up as a go to on every mech forum I have been on from Cars to tractors. PB blaster end of story. Hell I could spit on it after applying heat and say it works if it came out.). Gun makers/collectors will let bolts soak for a month. But if there is 1" sticking out soak it overnight, use heat then turn that thing counter clockwise. If it breaks off at that point then it was never going to come out. To be honest if you do not have out by now you should take it to someone who can. This should never have taken more then an hr to accomplish.
Lotsa drama for one(1) M6X1.0 bolt, status: stuck. (thread dia/pitch conjecture sure to unleash hornets nest)
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