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PIA bikes to work on

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nobbie48 said:
How engineers think:

Many years ago I was talking about job problems with a production engineer at Ford. His claim to fame was the assembly line (Late 1960's) couldn't figure out how to install the front turn signals on a particular new model coming down the line.

His solution was to grab a broomstick and use it to pop the assembly into place after dangling it in the right spot. That's how all of those models went together. However there was no way of un-popping them to change a bulb............ Not his problem.

1970 Oldsmobile backup lights: Step 1 remove rear bumper.
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It only matters that it goes down the assembly line easily. What happens afterward, doesn't matter. Someone else's problem.

Lots and lots of auto engines are fully assembled to the front subframe off the main assembly line and then the whole front subframe goes into the vehicle as a single unit with engine and transmission and front suspension and steering already on the subframe. Changing the front antiroll bar on a VW Golf/Jetta Mk5 requires dropping the subframe. Lots of transverse V6 engines have poor access to the back three spark plugs. The timing chain on a VW VR6 engine is on the back of the engine (on the flywheel end) which means the transmission has to come out in order to get to it. They did this because you're never supposed to have to service it. Oops.

There are certain jobs on Ford F250/F350 diesel trucks that require lifting the body off the frame. If it's a pickup truck, that's mildly miserable (at least the cab is separate from the box). If it's an Excursion, the whole body has to come off.

I hate working on cars.

Back to bikes. On Yamaha FZRs (which I'm quite familiar with http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?178050-FZR400-winter-overhaul ) there are 2 bolts securing the crankcases together which can only be accessed by disassembling the top end. Cylinders have to come off. If you need to fix something that is entirely in the bottom end (e.g. transmission) you have to do the whole thing.

Spark plug access on a gen 1 zx10r (and I have one of those, too) requires removing the front upper engine mounts. And removing the throttle bodies. And moving the radiator forward slightly to get enough clearance. That means removing seats, fuel tank, belly pan, side fairings, upper fairing, airbox (which is a nuisance on its own), a heat shield around the engine which is another real nuisance, and some emission control hoses. It is more or less an 8 hour job.

In contrast, changing the spark plug on a cbr125 requires unplugging the spark plug cap, and then removing the spark plug. Nothing else. And there is only one of them.
 
Ok,i feel a bit better after reading some of the horror stories. Just for giggles goggle "Audi timing belt change" Hahahahahaha on the car guys!
 
Gen 1 zx10's do not require any engine mounting bolts to be removed. I own(d) one and I've done it.
 
dricked said:
Gen 1 zx10's do not require any engine mounting bolts to be removed. I own(d) one and I've done it.
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How do you get the ignition coil off the left cylinder? The top engine mount bracket that bolts to the bottom of the frame above the engine stops the coil from coming out unless that bracket is not there any more. I own one and I've tried! There's juuuust short of enough clearance for the coil to come out. I don't recall offhand whether the right coil will come out - it might, because the timing chain is on that end of the engine.

I know they fixed this on the later models. It's possible that they did a running change. I know there was a running change for the drive mechanism for the alternator. Mine is one of the early ones that got a reputation for grenading the alternator. I changed mine before it did so.
 
All CBR's I've worked on. Great bikes but they sure do cram **** into every nook and cranny to save space. Safety wiring my F4i was a huge pain in the ***. Why they put coolant hoses running into the backside of the engine is beyond me. The street bikes you spend a couple hours just getting the fairing off to get at the thing you actually want.

Getting the left most spark plug out of a Kawi 636 is also a bit of a job.

I would say my Suzuki's were the easiest. I think they know they are going to break down lol
 
When I changed the oil pan on my ram 2500 diesel I had to drop the tranny and pull the engine. Lots fun. Dodge and rusty oil pans go hand in hand.

Sent from my SM-A500W using Tapatalk
 
Iceman said:
When I changed the oil pan on my ram 2500 diesel I had to drop the tranny and pull the engine. Lots fun. Dodge and rusty oil pans go hand in hand.

Sent from my SM-A500W using Tapatalk
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My mechanic tells me to do the clutch on my 944 you either need to pull the engine or the transmission from the back. If you do the transmission I think you need to remove most of the rear suspension as well for some reason. Also, if you want to change a rear speaker you have to take out the rear side windows. I also found it entertaining that to access the ECU you have to remove a large wooden board from the passenger footwell.

He's got the engine out right now looking for an oil leak. After he already had to pull a bunch of stuff last season to change the oil pan as that was leaking.
 
Brian P said:
How do you get the ignition coil off the left cylinder? The top engine mount bracket that bolts to the bottom of the frame above the engine stops the coil from coming out unless that bracket is not there any more. I own one and I've tried! There's juuuust short of enough clearance for the coil to come out. I don't recall offhand whether the right coil will come out - it might, because the timing chain is on that end of the engine.

I know they fixed this on the later models. It's possible that they did a running change. I know there was a running change for the drive mechanism for the alternator. Mine is one of the early ones that got a reputation for grenading the alternator. I changed mine before it did so.
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I honestly don't remember. It's been awhile. Maybe I did take the bracket off? I know I didn't tilt the engine.
 
dricked said:
I honestly don't remember. It's been awhile. Maybe I did take the bracket off? I know I didn't tilt the engine.
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I did it on mine as well.

I think I was able to get the coil out by pulling the top inward. I'm pretty sure the rubber bendy tip was bended during removal and install.
 
Well scooters are no better. Changing sparkplugs on the 650 Burg begins with:

1) Remove front fender.
2) Remove brake calipers.
3) Remove front wheel.
4) Remove lower front fairing (20 fasteners of different types).
5) Drain radiator and swing aside (IIRC).
6) Remove plug caps.
7) Use 12" socket extension to remove sparkplugs.
8) Do 7) to 1) in reverse.
9) You remembered to check the gapping, right?

Checking the CVT module is a bit easier:

1) Disassemble entire scooter (or close to it).
 
"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction" Albert Einstein

I don't know about genius and courage but every bike I own was chosen in large part because ease of ownership; read, easy to work on and long production runs assuring plenty aftermarket and used parts. Every time I stand next to one of these new model revamped complex high zoot land rockets I get a nose bleed. Alternatively, my lack of technical theory, room temperature IQ, general spanner sloth and sundry may well be the true wedge driven betwixt and between myself and true motorbike glory.
 
Replacing cam chain on Honda CM series bikes. Three easy steps. From the Haines manual (UK edition):

1) Disassemble bike lak wot it's done.
2) Replace chain.
3) Reassemble bike taking great care not to displace components.
 
Several years ago I restored a BMW K100 as my winter project.
I got everything up to standard and was about to take it in for the safety.
I was going to use my old licence plate but I dropped the nut for the licence plate screw. It got stuck behind the plate holder.
I looked at the holder carefully and realised there was no simple way to remove it to get the bolt.
I figured to sleep on it before going to all the trouble of removing the plate holder or just buying a new bolt.
A riding buddy phoned me that night to talk over where we may want to ride that year.
I told him the problem, he suggested a screwdriver behind the holder and bend it until the screw fell out.
It did.
The easiest solution to a problem that meets all of the criteria is generally the best solution.
 
And then there is the opposite.Nice and easy to work on.My daughter told me that she never uses the front brake on the TY175.(she has been competing on it.Dad is her sponsor) I tried it the other day....yikes! Fifteen minutes to pop a new set of $25 shoes in there.You would think that Yamaha could make a set of shoes that would last longer than 41 years,jeeesh!
P4020165_zpsnownuwxa.jpg
 
statsman said:
Several years ago I restored a BMW K100 as my winter project.
I got everything up to standard and was about to take it in for the safety.
I was going to use my old licence plate but I dropped the nut for the licence plate screw. It got stuck behind the plate holder.
I looked at the holder carefully and realised there was no simple way to remove it to get the bolt.
I figured to sleep on it before going to all the trouble of removing the plate holder or just buying a new bolt.
A riding buddy phoned me that night to talk over where we may want to ride that year.
I told him the problem, he suggested a screwdriver behind the holder and bend it until the screw fell out.
It did.
The easiest solution to a problem that meets all of the criteria is generally the best solution.
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I should have added to bend it just enough to get it out. It will break.
 
I had to come here and share my joy with y'all

I just dropped the oil pan on my GS500, and the thing that you dream of happening but almost never does happened - gasket came off in one piece, and stuck to the pan and not the block. The opposite of a PITA
 
Honda CX500/650 series v-twins. To replace the stator or cam chain and/or tensioner remove the motor from the frame.

My friend's Ducati 696 Monster has at least 20 fasteners holding the fuel tank covers on and all have to be removed/reinstalled when servicing the battery.
 
TK4 said:
My friend's Ducati 696 Monster has at least 20 fasteners holding the fuel tank covers on and all have to be removed/reinstalled when servicing the battery.
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I don't really understand how you can make servicing a naked bike that complicated
 
You people have it all wrong and do every thing the hard way......i take all my stuff to all girls garage....they can do everything in less than 30 min and never get there hands ( or low cut T shirts ) dirty.:lmao:
 
dricked said:
I honestly don't remember. It's been awhile. Maybe I did take the bracket off? I know I didn't tilt the engine.
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What does removing the upper front motor mount brackets have to do with "tilting the engine ",the motor still won't budge.Their are bolts in the rear holding it in place.You may have owned one but with that comment I can tell you have never done any extensive work on one(nothing personal btw but it is what it is) removing the engine etc.
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