Any GTAM'ers own an electric vehicle? | Page 74 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Any GTAM'ers own an electric vehicle?

Since you have 8/3, it would be interesting to see if code allows a 120V split plug (or quad box) to be installed on the same circuit. When the EV isn't charging, you would have tons of power in the garage (assuming you don't already have a decent power drop out there). On second thought, code probably prohibits this as the 12/14 ga running to the 120 split plugs won't be properly protected.

Without a sub panel it would definitely be against code as the 120v plugs would have far more amps available to them than they are physically designed to carry.

Even with a sub panel I don't know if it would be cool - if both the 240v and 120v circuits were in use at the same time it would be possible to trip 1/2 of the circuit, overloading the leg carrying the 120v load piggybacking on it, while the other side of the 240v leg wouldn't trip at the same time. Yes, 240v breakers are tied to make sure they switch on and off together, but I'm not sure if one half tripping would yank the second leg breaker down with it. Could be wrong but I suspect it's not gonna work for code. ;)
 
Yeah, it sounds sketchy, even though I can see how it could tempt someone to do that. Plus in my case, it's really not needed as I already have separate 120V,15A line going there. The 240 is strictly for either EVSE or electric heater in the colder months.
 
Yeah, it sounds sketchy, even though I can see how it could tempt someone to do that. Plus in my case, it's really not needed as I already have separate 120V,15A line going there. The 240 is strictly for either EVSE or electric heater in the colder months.

You could do that but probably not legally. If you know your volts, watts and amps it is unlikely to cause you any grief. ESA inspection assumes the next home owner isn't as smart as you.
 
re: the 8/2 and 8/3 debate, it comes down to economies of scale.

8/3 is widely used and found in just about every house in north america to power a stove. Needless to say, this is mass produced and stocked by every electrical supplier. 8/2 on the other hand is a rare bird. Sure its available if you look hard enough, but why bother and likely the same cost as 8/3 if not more. Perhaps with 40amp chargers being the norm in the near future, 8/2 may make a comeback. As per usual, the market will decide.

As for the neutral conductor, your 240V equipment : charger, motors, heaters etc. are "balanced" loads, thus no neutral is required. As stated earlier, when you do have an appliance or other 240v equipment that requires a neutral, its to carry the current of the unbalanced load back to the source.


Last but not least, I was shocked to learn when asked to rough in a Tesla charger for a customer that some of their chargers depending on which model, require up to 100amps of power!!


For 2018, The Ontario Building Code, will require ALL new houses to have a standard 200amp service panel and a conduit rough in for future electric car needs in the garage run to the panel. The 100amp service days are over.
 
Last but not least, I was shocked to learn when asked to rough in a Tesla charger for a customer that some of their chargers depending on which model, require up to 100amps of power!!

For 2018, The Ontario Building Code, will require ALL new houses to have a standard 200amp service panel and a conduit rough in for future electric car needs in the garage run to the panel. The 100amp service days are over.

Holy crap, who needs a garage heater when they are charging that fast.

Just a quick fact check for those interested. 17.2 kW at 240V is 72A (delivered to the car, I don't know how much more overhead is required by the EVSE).
"Model S variants with the “High Amperage Charger” option can accept up to 17.2 kW of power for a maximum 52 miles of range per hour."
"A Tesla Wall Connector installed on a 90 amp / 240 volt circuit breaker will achieve the maximum charge rate of 17.2 kW for a 100 kWh configured vehicle."

They also have for sale right now a 7.2kW wireless charger. Damn, that's a lot of power to beam through the air, I need to do more research to see how efficient their implementation is. I know how hot Qi chargers make cell phones at 3W when mm's away. Obviously they must be at least an order of magnitude more efficient while having a gap of inches.
 
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Latest fuel economy update. This is from my FuelCubby app:



I would be getting a bit better if I had a level 2 charger.

Also, when I filled up I was out of Battery power so I drove home on ICE mode. To those that keep asking what the car gets on gas mode only this was my drive home:



Not too bad. It went up as high as 9L/100kms and as low as 3L/100kms. This was in the city. Don't know how much better or worse it would have gotten if I had driven longer.
 
. Yes, 240v breakers are tied to make sure they switch on and off together, but I'm not sure if one half tripping would yank the second leg breaker down with it. Could be wrong but I suspect it's not gonna work for code. ;)

Yes, it will. This is why they have double pole or "tied" breakers. Double pole breakers are also use for your kitchen counter split receptacles. Each outlet in the receptacle is fed from a different circuit, but you want the whole outlet to lose power if there is a problem.
Code will require sub panel so each circuit is properly protected for its intended rating.
 
Well a bit late in posting, as he did get the vehicle about 2 weeks ago, my co-worker has his new BOLT.....

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I got mine, same color, yesterday :)
 
re: the 8/2 and 8/3 debate, it comes down to economies of scale.

8/3 is widely used and found in just about every house in north america to power a stove. Needless to say, this is mass produced and stocked by every electrical supplier. 8/2 on the other hand is a rare bird. Sure its available if you look hard enough, but why bother

A fair argument for sure. and having the neutral makes it a lot more versatile for alternate use, IE the pig panel with 120V on the other end, etc.

As for Tesla chargers, most people wouldn't need the 100A version unless they deplete their batteries every day and need that level of fast charging at home vs on a road trip.

Also, when I filled up I was out of Battery power so I drove home on ICE mode. To those that keep asking what the car gets on gas mode only this was my drive home:



Not too bad. It went up as high as 9L/100kms and as low as 3L/100kms. This was in the city. Don't know how much better or worse it would have gotten if I had driven longer.

It's been my experience that the engine gets much poorer fuel economy in the first 15-20km after it initially starts vs what it gets after that once warmed up and working less over a longer distance.
 
Latest fuel economy update.

Not too bad. It went up as high as 9L/100kms and as low as 3L/100kms. This was in the city. Don't know how much better or worse it would have gotten if I had driven longer.

Was the car charging the battery as well or can you turn off the charging mode? I assume there will be some degree of charging drag on the motor.
 
Was the car charging the battery as well or can you turn off the charging mode? I assume there will be some degree of charging drag on the motor.

When the battery is depleted the Engine only charges the battery. It doesn't "propel" the car. The car is still moving on electric power. When the engine is on it's to charge the battery.
 
Had the Bolt for about a week now and couldn't be happier. I can charge at work all day (L1/12amps) and that gets me back about half of my daily commute. L2 charging at home takes a little less than 3 hours. Total electricity cost is about $1.20/day vs. $18.50/day in gas for my truck.


Having a great time driving it too. Instant torque is awesome and the ride and handling are quite good.

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I am always surprised to read when someone replaces something as a truck with something like Bolt EV .... I guess you didn't need the truck in the first place?
 

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