Torque Wrench Calibration | GTAMotorcycle.com

Torque Wrench Calibration

shanekingsley

Curry - so nice it burns you twice
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I have a Mastercraft Maximum Torque Wrench. I must have bought it about 10 years ago and forgot about it. It's never been used and now I want to start using it.

Do I need to check it's calibration? If so, where?
 
I was thinking of getting one of these:

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/bike-master-digital-torque-wrench-adapter

and keeping it in a "safe" place (not my tool chest, for instance) and using it only to compare against my 1/2" clicker once in a while. I'd clamp the end in a vice and insert the clicker into the top and try a few different settings to see how they compare.

If there's a difference I'm not certain what I'd do beyond just buying a new wrench.
 
^^ That works too. I have the AC Delco version. The issue remains the same though - after a number of years, its certification/calibration isn't valid anymore and you need someone with a newer wrench to check it. Or you can do the rope and weight thing linked above.
 
The last time I got a tool shop to calibrate a wrench, the cost was reasonable. Matt's method looks like it would work though. I don't think lack of use would normally hurt a torque wrench much, but 10 years is long enough for things to stick/corrode a bit. If you're going Matt's route, I would work it a few times before checking it.

(May try out Matt's method as I have two wrenches that are out of date, but I don't know anywhere around here to calibrate them and I have time on my hands this month)
 
I used to repair torque wrenches and the shop had a proper dial gauge to do the click-click thing. Since I no longer have access to the right stuff I would either compare to a recently calibrated one. Get a 1/2" coupling nut which is 3/4" across the flats and basically arm wrestle your friend with 3/4" sockets.

You could also lock the square of the ratchet in a vise and hang a known weight a specific distance to see if it does the right things.

If the wrench was properly stored with no pressure on the spring it is probably OK. One problem with the cheap wrenches is that if you back the pressure off too far the trigger mechanism can fall out of position.
 
Yeah, the wrench was left in its case and stored indoors for the entire time - literally never opened.
I'll try Matts linked method or see if my neighbour has one I can test it against.

Since I have never used a torque wrench before, I don't know if this one is a decent one or cheap one - I was under the impression that the mastercraft maximum line was decent.
 
I have a Mastercraft Maximum (+ the entire set of dirt-cheap Princess Auto/Harbor Freight and a couple of Snap-Ons.) The Mastercraft is pretty close in quality to the Snap-Ons, although they all work equally well and seem to be holding their calibration just fine, even the crudely-made Princess Auto ones.

[Goddamn it, posted from the wrong account again.]
 
No... a Mastercraft (anything) torque wrench is a piece of crap, but then so are most of the torque wrenches you guys are using. (A torque wrench is a lousy way of "setting" torque. If accuracy is a REAL issue, there are better methods).
That is OK though because you're not using them to "set" torque, you're using them on multiple fasteners, to install the multiple fasteners at the same torque. Accuracy is not what you're after, repeatability is key.

If you want to get your wrench calibrated; Roys Hydraulics will test and calibrate most torque wrenches. (A Mastercraft torque wrench recently calibrated is probably more accurate that the most expensive tool that has never been calibrated)(I have an old "Craftsman" (Sears) wrench that was certified for use in the quality control lab of a Canadian fastener company when calibrated).
If you have a Snap-on wrench, Snap on will calibrate it for free.
 
If we were making space shuttles we wouldn't be using torque wrenches, we would be measuring fastener stretch, with very expensive, very accurate, recently calibrated micrometers on very expensive, extensively tested and quality controlled fasteners in a climate controlled shop.
 
Yes I am using to just do all the basic maintenance on my bike. I want to tighten stuff to the required tension and avoid stripping threads. I have no experience to acquire the right tension by feel for those parts that more experienced people can do. I want simple and effective:)
 
Yes I am using to just do all the basic maintenance on my bike. I want to tighten stuff to the required tension and avoid stripping threads. I have no experience to acquire the right tension by feel for those parts that more experienced people can do. I want simple and effective:)
.

and cheap
 
Been using Mastercraft for decades and haven't had any big issues. Had stuff replaced too. Even drill bits. Though not sure the stuff is lifetime warranty anymore.
 
Snap-on is an entirely other level. The wrenches are built like precious jewels. My Mastercraft is fine though.

I find that technique is the most important thing when using a click-type wrench like that. You can test yourself with one of those digital torque meter thingies. Being consistent is hard.
 
Snap on is no doubt great quality, I mean if we were all rich that would be the main brand but the fact that one tool is great does not make another one crap.

A Ferrari and a Honda are both priced accordingly and both do what they are bought for, saying Honda is crap because Ferrari is better is a sensationalized generalization
 
Snap on is no doubt great quality, I mean if we were all rich that would be the main brand but the fact that one tool is great does not make another one crap.

A Ferrari and a Honda are both priced accordingly and both do what they are bought for, saying Honda is crap because Ferrari is better is a sensationalized generalization
Agreed. That's why there are homeowner grade tools and professional grade tools.

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