USB on bike | GTAMotorcycle.com

USB on bike

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trainerdude

Well-known member
Can anyone tell me if I hardwire a USB/12v to my battery on my bike if that will always drain the battery? If I went into the front light would that solve the issue? (Once I figure out how the heck to do that) Or does anyone know someone who installs these at a reasonable rate? Thanks
 
It will only drain power if something is plugged into it. I recently installed a cigarette lighter adapter on my 2004 katana. It is hooked directly to the battery, so as long as I remember to unplug my GPS or phone my battery doesn't get drained.
 
If you're gonna have a lot of devices connected (phone, gps, heated grips, gear, camera, etc) then consider something like this:
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rowe-electronics-pdm60-power-distribution-module

It's pricey, but it's the easiest out of the gate.

For your scenario, it can be done, but you'd need to wire with a relay (switched power) and connect to power that's available when bike is on, so as not to drain the battery.

There are a few kits out there and some 'fuzeblock' type solutions if you're wiring many things. If you like to DIY, you can read up here and make your own: http://www.fuzeblocks.com/index.php?pid=3
 
Disturber said:
It will only drain power if something is plugged into it. I recently installed a cigarette lighter adapter on my 2004 katana. It is hooked directly to the battery, so as long as I remember to unplug my GPS or phone my battery doesn't get drained.
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Be wary of parasitic draws connecting things directly to the battery.
 
nfq said:
If you're gonna have a lot of devices connected (phone, gps, heated grips, gear, camera, etc) then consider something like this:
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rowe-electronics-pdm60-power-distribution-module
Click to expand...

I was curious about that device, because it seemed like a massively overpriced replacement for a fuse block. The product pages (both on RevZilla and from the manufacturer) are TERRIBLE at explaining what it actually does - you can program current limits and switching conditions (key on, separate switch, always on) for each terminal on the module. Actually pretty neat & sophisticated, seems like it would be extremely useful on working bikes (police, EMS, camera bikes, etc)
 
nfq said:
Be wary of parasitic draws connecting things directly to the battery.
Click to expand...

Not bad advice, but it's something you could check out in about five seconds with a multimeter
 
TwistedKestrel said:
Not bad advice, but it's something you could check out in about five seconds with a multimeter
Click to expand...

Yeah totally. Just fond memories of my earlier bike days and an SV650 I'll never forget haha

I had that wiring diagram memorized by the end of the summer and undid all the 'enhancements' the previous owner added.
 
parasitic draw? It is essentially an extension to the battery terminals. So if there was a possibility for battery drain, the risk would exist whether or not something was connected to the battery?
 
Disturber said:
parasitic draw? It is essentially an extension to the battery terminals. So if there was a possibility for battery drain, the risk would exist whether or not something was connected to the battery?
Click to expand...
That's why you'd use a relay switched from something that only comes on with the key turned.
 
When I wired my GPS to my battery I put in a fuse and a relay. I think I paid about $15 for both from Canadian tire... worth it for the just-in-case factor.
 
Disturber said:
parasitic draw? It is essentially an extension to the battery terminals. So if there was a possibility for battery drain, the risk would exist whether or not something was connected to the battery?
Click to expand...

Unlike a 12V cigarette outlet, a 5V USB outlet is not an extension of the battery's terminals. There has to be some kind of regulator that steps down the 12V from your battery to the 5V that your devices use. That circuitry draws power all the time. The amount of parasitic draw is infinitesimal, probably up to 15-25 mA depending on the quality of the outlet. Just for comparison, your iPhone draws 1000 mA (1A) when charging.

It may take a very long time to drain the battery but the draw is always there, it's not 0A.
 
This is awesome info thank you

If someone did a lot of research on bike alarms or are aware of a good thread can you start one or let me know what to consider getting -- i DONT WANT TO POACH THIS THREAD THOUGH AS THIS IS GOOD INFO I WAS LOOKING FOR
 
smith007 said:
This is awesome info thank you

If someone did a lot of research on bike alarms or are aware of a good thread can you start one or let me know what to consider getting -- i DONT WANT TO POACH THIS THREAD THOUGH AS THIS IS GOOD INFO I WAS LOOKING FOR
Click to expand...

Scorpio are still the best I believe. I had a Gorilla before and it sucked (and died after 2-3 years).

For USB, the best I've seen is the 3BR products. Keeping mulling over getting one, but then I'm pretty sure I'll break down and buy a Zumo at some point, which woudl negate the need. Also if you don't need USB pulled to the front of the bike, there are a few types that make use of battery tender pigtails, so you could just simply plug it in when you need to charge something, then run it to a tailbag or similar.
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I bought something that I will need to wire in and extend some wires to make it happen, so I will wait to see how that goes. Not paying a shop 1.5 hrs at $100/hr to do it....I wish there was a place that did it for like $40-50 and I would take it there in a heartbeat. Oh well...time to learn new things.
 
trainerdude said:
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I bought something that I will need to wire in and extend some wires to make it happen, so I will wait to see how that goes. Not paying a shop 1.5 hrs at $100/hr to do it....I wish there was a place that did it for like $40-50 and I would take it there in a heartbeat. Oh well...time to learn new things.
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PM Frekeyguy. Not sure of his rates, but he should be cheaper than a shop.

Personally I would wire in a lighter socket with a fuse but unswitched and use a plug in usb charger (like an Anker Powerdrive). If I want to leave my phone charging on the bike I can, if I want to store the bike for a while, you just pull the charger out 1/2" and it disconnects the power.
 
x2 wiring it into switched power, not constant power...those little USB adapters DO have a parasitic draw, don't ask me how I know.

OP, where are you located? I'm quite well versed in electrical and could help you install it if you're local.

And x2 wiring in a cigarette lighter plug instead of a dedicated USB plug - cigarette lighter plug gives you far more options, and you can also get a highspeed USB adapter for them vs the typically lower amperage outputs that the small motorcycle USB plugs provide. A phablet like an iPhone 6 will take FOREVER to charge on a 1000ma USB plug, but on a 2000-3000ma USB plug, dramatic difference.
 
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