eww. It doesn't even tell you the output of the USB port. It says 1A or less so it is probably a 1A output, but it would be interesting to see what it is actually putting out.
|
|
|
USB on bike
- Thread starter trainerdude
- Start date
eww. It doesn't even tell you the output of the USB port. It says 1A or less so it is probably a 1A output, but it would be interesting to see what it is actually putting out.
Scorpio, I have had Gorilla and it is a piece of crap
If You want to wire a relay circuit yourself this page is a bit of a gold standard IMHO.
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php
Very detailed and easy to follow.
And it works as advertised.
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php
Very detailed and easy to follow.
And it works as advertised.
Last edited:
I have a 12V socket wired directly to the battery with an inline fuse. During the riding season I have a USB adapter plugged into it 24/7. The adapter has a small green LED that remains constantly lit. Never had a problem with battery drain even when left sitting for a few weeks.
trainerdude
Well-known member
Ok. I need some advise.....I bought this instead because it had the on/ off switch. https://www.amazon.com/EKLIPES-EK1-110-Ultimate-Motorcycle-Charging/dp/B0088BX0IM
I installed it today and it was quite easy...everything worked fine....until tonight when I went to start the bike, the front light wont come on and the bike won't start. I assume I killed the battery, but how so fast??? The bike already had a battery tender installed and I just added the black and red cables in addition to the ones for the tender....was that it? Anyone have any idea?
I installed it today and it was quite easy...everything worked fine....until tonight when I went to start the bike, the front light wont come on and the bike won't start. I assume I killed the battery, but how so fast??? The bike already had a battery tender installed and I just added the black and red cables in addition to the ones for the tender....was that it? Anyone have any idea?
Last edited:
Did you switch it off when you parked the bike?
The parasitic draw that many were mentioning in above replies is what gotcha if you left it on. If it was turned off, well, one may conclude there's something wrong with the unit and it has parasitic draw even when it's turned off.
This is why it was suggested you wire it to a switched power source - that way when the key is turned off there's 0% chance of anything like this happening.
The parasitic draw that many were mentioning in above replies is what gotcha if you left it on. If it was turned off, well, one may conclude there's something wrong with the unit and it has parasitic draw even when it's turned off.
This is why it was suggested you wire it to a switched power source - that way when the key is turned off there's 0% chance of anything like this happening.
The parasitic draw is so small, it wouldn't have drained the battery in half a day.
Checklist:
1) Check connections at the terminal, they may have come loose when you attached the USB outlet. Are the terminals dirty with grime or corrosion preventing a good connection?
2) Check fuses
3) Check your battery with a multimeter, if it's drained, charged it back up again and see if your lights come back on
if your battery was drained, then you'll have to find out the cause. Was it a short circuit somewhere, burnt wire? Is your battery capable of holding a charge?
Seems suspect that this happened after you installed the outlet, so I suspect a loose connection or blown fuse.
Checklist:
1) Check connections at the terminal, they may have come loose when you attached the USB outlet. Are the terminals dirty with grime or corrosion preventing a good connection?
2) Check fuses
3) Check your battery with a multimeter, if it's drained, charged it back up again and see if your lights come back on
if your battery was drained, then you'll have to find out the cause. Was it a short circuit somewhere, burnt wire? Is your battery capable of holding a charge?
Seems suspect that this happened after you installed the outlet, so I suspect a loose connection or blown fuse.
trainerdude
Well-known member
Thanks for the suggestions. I will take a look at them tonight and see where I get. It was only sitting for about 4 hours after the install. USB 12v was definitely off as the red light wasn't on, which should mean there is no draw. If I turn the key, turning signal lights work, speedometer light is on, brake lights work and if I turn on the USB source it will power up the gps. Starting to think (with some help from step brother) that it's perhaps fuse related or main relay? Picking up some fuses today.
You said in your first reply that no lights came on?
If they do now, did you try to start it? What happened?
Fuses are a possible culprit but the lighting, signals, and starter relay circuits are typically all on different circuits/fuses so having them all fail at once would be unlikely as was described in the first post-install response.
If they do now, did you try to start it? What happened?
Fuses are a possible culprit but the lighting, signals, and starter relay circuits are typically all on different circuits/fuses so having them all fail at once would be unlikely as was described in the first post-install response.
trainerdude
Well-known member
Went back and re-read what I wrote and I said the front headlight didn't come on and it still doesn't.
i apologize for not being more specific. I am not very mechanical at all and still trying to learn all this. Heck I was so proud I got it right after I installed it and so this is driving me crazy. So if they are all on separate fuses it sounds to me like the starter relay could be the issue. And maybe the added load from the 12v tripped it.
I put in the key, bike makes usual clicking noises, running lights and speedometer lights up. USB/12v can power up if I hit switch, kill switch off, hit start and nada.
Hope that make more sense?
i apologize for not being more specific. I am not very mechanical at all and still trying to learn all this. Heck I was so proud I got it right after I installed it and so this is driving me crazy. So if they are all on separate fuses it sounds to me like the starter relay could be the issue. And maybe the added load from the 12v tripped it.
I put in the key, bike makes usual clicking noises, running lights and speedometer lights up. USB/12v can power up if I hit switch, kill switch off, hit start and nada.
Hope that make more sense?
When you hit the start button does the headlight (and all the other lights for that matter) dim out?
trainerdude
Well-known member
No. The headlight doesn't come on at all, and the other lights don't dim.
I am kind of late to this thread but I went with a unit from here:
https://www.motorcycleinnovations.ca/Dual_USB_Port_with_cig_port_p/usbport2_bar.htm
I know there are options from ebay which may well be cheaper. However, thus far this unit has worked perfectly for me. Installed easily and worked right away. It has worked in the rain and on a 4 day tour without problems. I just double check that it is shut off when I leave the bike.
This is from my install of it from my thread about my Bandit:
https://www.motorcycleinnovations.ca/Dual_USB_Port_with_cig_port_p/usbport2_bar.htm
I know there are options from ebay which may well be cheaper. However, thus far this unit has worked perfectly for me. Installed easily and worked right away. It has worked in the rain and on a 4 day tour without problems. I just double check that it is shut off when I leave the bike.
This is from my install of it from my thread about my Bandit:
So... Today was the day to install the USB power source. Kit is very comprehensive, it even comes with an extra fuse, a block to mount the unit onto a flat surface (instead of on handlebars), and even several plastic ties:
The first thing I did was simply hook it right up to the battery to ensure if was working properly. No sense going to all the trouble or tying wires to framerails etc and doing all of the minutiae and not having it work! Water resistant on/off switch which illuminates. That is a good thing! Make sure it is turned off when you are not riding the bike so as to not drain your battery.
And showing the switch turned off:
It comes with 3 layers of rubberlike material which are to dial in the proper fit to your width of handlebar. I used two which made for a nice snug fit. Honestly, figuring out where to mount the thing took longer than hooking it up! In the middle would have looked good but it was just a shade too wide. I ended up mounting it to the left side of the handlebar just to the right of the RAM mount. If you look closely you can see where the unit is going to clip in:
Here is the physical unit which will mount onto the handlebar component. You see where it will interface with the handlebar component:
Once it clicks onto the handlebar component you are good to go. From here it was a matter of hiding the wires. I ended up only using one of the plastic ties that came with the kit. I have a whack of black and white plastic ties I use for various things. The black ones are used on my bikes all the time. I took the side fairing off and I think I did a decent job hiding the wires. When I pull the tank in the future to check the air cleaner (which is below the tank on this bike) I will be able to do a better job.
Yup! We've got juice!
This is a very workable package. Again, a hard wired Garmin would be nice but then again Google Maps works very well and is constantly being updated. I am going to experiment with Waze and Co-Pilot too. This also opens up the possibility of trying out bluetooth ear buds on a longer trip.
A black charging cable would look less conspicuous. I am keeping a twist tie on the back here and I can just put the wire into a loop when I was to use it. A better idea might be to get myself a new, black charging cable and just keep it on the bike.
While I was at it I installed the Battery Tender leads, adjusted my brake and clutch levers to my liking, and remounted the licence plate. It is like I am looking for excuses to fart around with the bike.
I think I did a decent job hiding the wires. The only sign I was working on it is that the lead for the battery tender is on there now:
Hard to get used to a fuel injected bike with everything being so easy to work on. On the old bike anything required wrenches and time. A turn of the key and this seat comes off. On the CB I had to use a wrench to take the seat off (two bolts held it on). I love how easy it is to adapt this bike by taking luggage on and off etc.
For my USB port I connect the negative to a ground or negative battery terminal. The positive I connect to any wire that powers the running lights. That way the power to the USB always turns off when the bike it turned off. I also added heated grips. I used a relay connecting the switch contacts the same way as the USB port and the port connectors to the battery. Again that way I can't leave the grips on when the bike is off.
Well, that does point towards it being a fuse issue somewhere then, yes...not a dead battery.
If it is a Suzuki it is probably the clutch switch most bikes will start in neutral with the clutch out but not Suzuki.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
trainerdude
Well-known member
Well I am extremely embarrassed to admit I solved the issue....as it turns out, I always park my bike in Neutral...(habit from the course I took) so I never thought to check that the damn bike was in neutral....previous post sent a light bulb off in my head so I ran downstairs and of course the bike was not in neutral...changed gear and it started right up......feel like an idiot, but proud my usb install was good..lol
trainerdude
Well-known member
Riders institute. They always had us leave the bike in neutral. Now I always do the same, everytime I park the bike. Except the last time apparently. Felt like a giant idiot
There are pros and cons to parking in N vs 1.
If you're on a slope, parking in gear could prevent the bike from rolling off the sidestand.
However, it's always better to start the bike in N instead of in gear because it's less load on the starter motor due to clutch drag (yes, even with the clutch lever pulled in). So if you park in N, you don't have to put it in N when you first start it.
I think they teach you to park in N at the riding schools so newbs don't accidentally start it in 1st then immediately release the clutch and stall, or drop it, or in the worse case - loop it... Also, when pushing unpowered bikes around the course, the instructors expect all the bikes to be in neutral so they don't have to do it themselves.
If you're on a slope, parking in gear could prevent the bike from rolling off the sidestand.
However, it's always better to start the bike in N instead of in gear because it's less load on the starter motor due to clutch drag (yes, even with the clutch lever pulled in). So if you park in N, you don't have to put it in N when you first start it.
I think they teach you to park in N at the riding schools so newbs don't accidentally start it in 1st then immediately release the clutch and stall, or drop it, or in the worse case - loop it... Also, when pushing unpowered bikes around the course, the instructors expect all the bikes to be in neutral so they don't have to do it themselves.
|
|
|
|
|