Rear end slides (sideways) under hard breaking | GTAMotorcycle.com

Rear end slides (sideways) under hard breaking

Shift the weight to the back by sliding your butt to the back, chest to the tank. Ease off the rear brake when it loses grip, keep braking with the front.
 
250cc ninja....and i'm a heavy rider to boot

just regular riding, cager ahead slams the breaks for whatever reason...
 
use less rear brake. that will always happen if you mash it.
 
don't hit your rear brake so hard. Ideally it should be about 70-30 front/rear. Anytime you hit the rear hard or you're at speed its gonna slide rather than stop, its actually pretty fun to do when you're coming up to a stop sign.
 
The problem is, the front tire is real skinny and i don't have ABS...very easy to lock it...and keep on sliding!

Shift the weight to the back by sliding your butt to the back, chest to the tank. Ease off the rear brake when it loses grip, keep braking with the front.
 
The problem is, the front tire is real skinny and i don't have ABS...very easy to lock it...and keep on sliding!
Braking hard and fast will, as you noticed, cause the front to dive and destable the bike. Braking softer initially, then progressively harder may help your suspension cope easier. Practice in an empty parking lot. Maybe new tires?

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can help you.
 
The problem is, the front tire is real skinny and i don't have ABS...very easy to lock it...and keep on sliding!

Your front brake lever is not a 0 or 1 binary device. Ramp up the braking force smoothly but quickly - you don't have to take 10 seconds to do it, a quarter or half a second will do - and that front brake has enough power to do all the stopping up to the point of lifting the rear wheel off the ground.

It takes a moment for weight transfer to compress the suspension and for the weight transfer to actually happen. If you instantly hammer the brake during that time, then yes, it will lock the wheel. If you smoothly but quickly ramp up the braking force, the harder you brake the more traction the front will have.
 
Leave more space..??


Is there a bolt on for that?:D
He actually just gave us a glimpse into newer riders...wishing he had ABS to prevent that.:confused:

Ninja 250 and heavy rider, bike would seem to slow down the moment you let off the gas.
 
IMHO the front tire is way too skinny on all bikes, esp the budget bikes like mine. How is one supposed to get any traction when breaking?

Anyways, people who said to ease up on the rear break have a point, I am probably locking up the rear wheel on top of everything else going wrong.

T.Y.

Is there a bolt on for that?:D
He actually just gave us a glimpse into newer riders...wishing he had ABS to prevent that.:confused:

Ninja 250 and heavy rider, bike would seem to slow down the moment you let off the gas.
 
IMHO the front tire is way too skinny on all bikes, esp the budget bikes like mine. How is one supposed to get any traction when breaking?

Braking ... BRAKING ... not "breaking". There's a difference.

Anyhow, regarding the tire width ... you are quite obviously new at this. There is a tradeoff with the front tire. Yes, a bigger contact patch COULD improve traction in some circumstances. BUT ... A wider tire increases steering effort, and it is a substantial difference.

Short on front tire traction, huh?

x_2e9bf833.jpg


Anyways, people who said to ease up on the rear break have a point, I am probably locking up the rear wheel on top of everything else going wrong.

T.Y.
 
Say "breaking" one more time....

Sent from my custom Purple Joe Bass mobile on Tapatalk
 
"breaking" one more time
 
No need to even use the rear brake on that bike there is plenty of front traction like others have said. When braking hard the rear should be almost lifting and at that point the rear brake is useless it will just lock. Sounds like you need to practice breaking using front only somewhere safe.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
@ Joe: breaking bread. Just found a 2 ingredient bread recipe. Ice cream and flour.


...see all the connections? lol


You are using too much rear brake and need to be progressive in your braking. Proper "street" braking should be 70% front, but the rear should be applied a fraction of a second before the front to maximize all the braking potential and settle the bike.
 
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Here's a good demonstration of how a gradual application of the front brake increases the tire contact patch with increased traction / braking capability. Vs 'grabbing and stabbing' which results in less traction and more chance of the front sliding.

[video=youtube_share;G1rlQ0NmbWs]http://youtu.be/G1rlQ0NmbWs[/video]
 
Leave more space..??

Whoa whoa whoa...these threads have no space for logic and common sense! LoL

OP...focus more on front brake and learn where your max brake point is before you start to skid. Threshold braking is the proper term for this. And awareness of what's happening will hopefully prevent most such emergencies in the future.
 
IMHO the front tire is way too skinny on all bikes, esp the budget bikes like mine. How is one supposed to get any traction when breaking?
By applying the lessons provided here, in particular by Doctor T and Brian. To summarize, brake only as fast as the front suspension compresses. That's how you load up the front tire so it grips better, making its narrow size no concern. And practice.

Id add that you can forget about the rear brake altogether unless you have a passenger or you're on a slick surface.
 

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