Rear Brake issue | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Rear Brake issue

mistersouthpaw said:
What turned out to be the issue and how much did it cost you?
Click to expand...


I have been trying to resolve it, but no success and then tonight the rear brake cable snapped and a support bar (I think that's what it is) also had the bolt fall out. Pictures below of the issue. Anyone know how hard a repair this is? Can a rookie mechanic take this on if I can find the parts? Or should I just take it in?

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • image1-2.jpg
    image1-2.jpg
    19.7 KB · Views: 114
The brake stay bolt likely fell out first, then the drum spun around and took out the cable.
If the brake drum itself is not damaged then get a new ,proper bolt, related parts and cable/rod.
Go to your local dealer (its unlikely you'll find stuff like this elsewhere), go over the list with the parts guy and order up what you need.
 
I think your right. I went to the Yamaha dealer today in Oakville and ordered the parts I needed. Very nice guys and super helpful. When the parts come in I shall attempt the repair myself.
 
trainerdude said:
I think your right. I went to the Yamaha dealer today in Oakville and ordered the parts I needed. Very nice guys and super helpful. When the parts come in I shall attempt the repair myself.
Click to expand...

**** man sucks that you've been having all this issues. Good luck brother
 
trainerdude said:
It does indeed man. Owned the bike for less than a month, but this will be a good learning experience if I can pull off this repair myself.
Click to expand...

The shop that did the safety really should have noticed that the bolt holding the torque rod was loose. There's no way in a few weeks of riding that it not only came loose but backed out far enough to fall out without it having been loose to begin with.
 
PrivatePilot said:
The shop that did the safety really should have noticed that the bolt holding the torque rod was loose. There's no way in a few weeks of riding that it not only came loose but backed out far enough to fall out without it having been loose to begin with.
Click to expand...

its supposed to have cotter pin in- was there ?
 
PrivatePilot said:
The shop that did the safety really should have noticed that the bolt holding the torque rod was loose. There's no way in a few weeks of riding that it not only came loose but backed out far enough to fall out without it having been loose to begin with.
Click to expand...

Yeah, not sure what to say. The guy is not close to me at all and if they had been a little closer I would have taken it back to him. Kinda disappointed over all as the back break was sticking before the safety and that is one thing he adjusted. Not sure it was a "thorough" safety.
 
trainerdude said:
It does indeed man. Owned the bike for less than a month, but this will be a good learning experience if I can pull off this repair myself.
Click to expand...

Might be faster and safer to take it to glen at flying squirrel if you want to get back on the road quickly and painlessly. He'll fix your bike up properly. I'm going to his shop on Tuesday at 11am. If you want to take it in and you're not too far I can use my caa and get you a tow there and then pay it forward
 
Last edited:
TK4 said:
its supposed to have cotter pin in- was there ?
Click to expand...

Theres a cotterpin on the brake connection, not the torque rod.
 
PrivatePilot said:
Theres a cotterpin on the brake connection, not the torque rod.
Click to expand...

There should be a cotter pin in the BOLT that holds the brake torque arm to the backing plate, just outside of
attachment.php
the retaining nut.
Look at the bolt and you'll see a hole in it.
The adjustment rod/cable has a a spring to perform a similar function.
All you have to do is look at the parts list to see the order of assembly.
 

Attachments

  • xv250.gif
    xv250.gif
    5.8 KB · Views: 69
mistersouthpaw said:
Might be faster and safer to take it to glen at flying squirrel if you want to get back on the road quickly and painlessly. He'll fix your bike up properly. I'm going to his shop on Tuesday at 11am. If you want to take it in and you're not too far I can use my caa and get you a tow there and then pay it forward
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer. I really appreciate it. I actually have CAA...it's how I got the bike towed home. I actually want to attempt to do the repair myself. Part of the reason I bought a smaller bike to begin with was not only to learn to ride safe, but to also learn how to do my own work on the bike as well.

If I get stuck and can't pull it off, I will take it in to a mechanic to get it done.
 
TK4 said:
There should be a cotter pin in the BOLT that holds the brake torque arm to the backing plate, just outside of
attachment.php
the retaining nut.
Look at the bolt and you'll see a hole in it.
The adjustment rod/cable has a a spring to perform a similar function.
All you have to do is look at the parts list to see the order of assembly.
Click to expand...


hmmm. Now I am not sure I have all the parts I need to complete the repair. I ordered the rear brake cable, bolt and nuts for the tension rod for where it came out, and then a new tension rod...don't recall the cotter pin being ordered. Hopefully parts come in tomorrow and I can go from there on what I am missing. Just means a few more days of no riding. :(
 
If all you're missing is a cotter pin or two, you can get those at any hardware store or auto supplier. No need to order and wait.

Sent from my Le Pan TC802A using Tapatalk
 
TK4 said:
There should be a cotter pin in e BOLT that holds the brake torque arm to the backing plate, just outside of the retaining nut.
Click to expand...

You are correct...not sure what I was thinking that the torque rod didn't have a cotterpin but it does indeed. Makes sense, it is a fairly important part - if it lets go and the entire drum spins (as happened to our OP) it effectively leaves you with no rear brake.

Which leads me full circle to how the bike just certified apparently without it.
 
PrivatePilot said:
You are correct...not sure what I was thinking that the torque rod didn't have a cotterpin but it does indeed. Makes sense, it is a fairly important part - if it lets go and the entire drum spins (as happened to our OP) it effectively leaves you with no rear brake.

Which leads me full circle to how the bike just certified apparently without it.
Click to expand...

not knowing enough about the mechanics of bikes I relied heavily on the guy that did my safety and repairs. I won't be taking it back to that guy anytime soon. Lesson learned.
 
Ok. I was almost really proud of myself. Tension bar re-installed. Old cable is out, new cable is on and I triple checked it was correct. However when I press down on the brakes, although the cable stuff moves, the brakes don't engage. Any chance that when the cable snapped, something inside also broke? Any ideas?
 
trainerdude said:
Ok. I was almost really proud of myself. Tension bar re-installed. Old cable is out, new cable is on and I triple checked it was correct. However when I press down on the brakes, although the cable stuff moves, the brakes don't engage. Any chance that when the cable snapped, something inside also broke? Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Take apart the drum assembly, check that it is working properly and check the pad thickness. With drum brakes when the pad material gets under a certain thickness they dont work at all anymore

Could be worn out pads, or just an adjustment needed
 
trainerdude said:
Ok. I was almost really proud of myself. Tension bar re-installed. Old cable is out, new cable is on and I triple checked it was correct. However when I press down on the brakes, although the cable stuff moves, the brakes don't engage. Any chance that when the cable snapped, something inside also broke? Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Keep winding the adjustment nut - it may take a lot of turns before the brake engages.
When it finally starts to drag then back it off a few turns and check again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom