Vacation time | Page 7 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Vacation time

We missed the Salmon Glacier as well. Was raining and neither of us felt worth the effort when viz was so poor.

Gotta love American sense of humour ...Check Point Charlie....hmmph. :rolleyes:

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angled wet logs eat mcycles....been there - uphill....fortunately big muscular types pulled the KLR off me. Taught me I needed knobbies. Much happier with 606s now but they howl over 80 kph.

I guess the good lesson from coming off is you and the bike can get up, dust off and keep going tho yours is certainly looking Alaskanized. ;)

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Day 22, Tuesday June 28, Smithers, BC to Quesnel, BC 488km.

I was up early, as were Dave and Debbie. They fed me a proper breakfast, made sure I was in good shape and all was in order. I thanked them for their generous hospitality.

A fairly uneventful, but not unpleasant, morning ride along the Yellowhead #16. Around lunch time, I arrived at a Tim Hortons in Prince George. It was here that I finally realized I must take a closer look at an oil leak which had developed over the last few days. I had hoped if I ignored it, it would go away. No such luck, of course. An oily mess had accumulated at the rear of the engine, but at first I thought it was caused by a different brand of chain lube. A look underneath showed quite a bit of oil coming from the filter. I broke out the tools, figuring I'd check to see if the filter was tight. As soon as I gave it a slight heave with the wrench, the engine puked its guts onto the parking lot. Apparently, the spot welded nut on the end of the K&N filter had broken and caused the leak.

I could take the easy way out and blame the ham fisted mechanic who changed it last, but I gave further thought. Defective filter? Possible, of course, but improbable. Remember when I bottomed out on the Denali Highway a few days ago? I'm certain this is what damaged the filter. Once again, fault can be assigned to the rider.

In any case, I could not proceed. I thought of calling a local shop and begging them to come and pick me up. This was unlikely. Then I remembered CAA. As I sat in Tim's, on hold with CAA, going through the menu options, what did I discover across the lot? The local BCAA office! I walked in and was greeted by a woman who asked if she could help. "Guess who I'm on hold with right now?", I asked, as I flashed my phone. She arranged the tow.

Off to Prince George Motorsports, the local Yamaha dealer. Bill, the service advisor, made a special effort to get me in immediately. With the bike on the lift, I gave some consideration to the rear tire. Despite all the internet experts who insisted the K60 would go the distance, it was becoming increasingly clear it will not. Yes, there was, perhaps, another one or two thousand kilometres remaining, but certainly not enough to get me home. I have to maximize my time; consolidating my pit stops only makes sense. They had a Metzeler Tourance in stock, beggars can't be choosers, and the deal was done. I rolled out around four thirty, most of the afternoon gone, and a lot lighter in the wallet. Thanks to Bill and Randy the wrench for the good service.

Heading south on #97, unsure of a destination, I came upon a construction zone after about an hour. Motorcycles were queued at the front waiting for the flagman. I quickly hopped off and made a cursory inspection of the oil filter; all was well. I spoke briefly with the other riders, a group travelling together. Most were on big cruisers, Goldwings, an R1200RT, and a Connie. The oddball of the bunch was a gentleman on a lightly loaded Moto Guzzi V7. A bit more chat, then we were off.

I moved ahead of the group and rode on to Quesnel. Now into the early evening, this looked like a good place to call it quits for the day. I rode from one end of town to the other, looking for the cheapest, sleaziest motel. I turned around with just the place in mind. I was about to pull in, but across the street was another cheap motel, this one full of motorbikes in the front lot, the same ones I had seen earlier. The chap on the V7, Douwa was his name, was clearly in charge of arranging the rooms. "I might have an extra room", he said, "but you'll have to share." Okay with me. "Lemme check my spreadsheet", he sez. After a moment in the office, he came out and said I'd have my own room, for thirty five bucks! What a deal, what good luck!

We hung out in the parking lot, discussing the bikes and the ride. Douwa was particularly proud of his new Goose, showing off a few tweaks. There were eight or nine in the group, all from Edmonton, on an annual ride. After we'd settled in, they invited me to join them for dinner. We walked to an Italian joint, had a delicious meal and good times. Nice of them to include me.

Tomorrow: Vancouver

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The puddle of doom.

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Fresh oil and filter, new rear shoe. Ready to go.

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The Gold Pan Motel. Motorcycle friendly!

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Still more gratuitous bike shots.

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Time for tall tales.

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Enjoying the updates.

Wow, that was terrible mileage out of that tire....did you figure out exactly how many K you ended up getting out of it?
 
Gotta love American sense of humour ...Check Point Charlie....hmmph. :rolleyes:

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I guess the good lesson from coming off is you and the bike can get up, dust off and keep going tho yours is certainly looking Alaskanized. ;)

Yep, still kicking myself for missing the Check Point Charlie shot.

Indeed, Mac, the Tiger is looking very second hand. It's actually a very robust machine, though. Takes all the abuse I can dish out and never complains.

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Enjoying the updates.

Wow, that was terrible mileage out of that tire....did you figure out exactly how many K you ended up getting out of it?
No, it wasn't that bad, actually. I changed it in Prince George at 11,000km just because I was there and the bike was on the lift. It had a couple thousand remaining, I reckon, but not enough to get me home.

All that said, I would buy another one.

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Yep, still kicking myself for missing the Check Point Charlie shot.

You are welcome to use mine :D

You changed out of K60s at 11,000 km ...??!!

I'm surprised ...we did 10k in a similar trip last year and my Wee was over loaded ( I hear you about bottoming out ).

Was still enough tread to easily pass safety and talked to another strom rider who got 22k MILES from his set.
We did no gravel tho...might be a factor
 
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You changed out of K60s at 11,000 km ...??!!

I'm surprised ...we did 10k in a similar trip last year and my Wee was over loaded ( I hear you about bottoming out ).

Was still enough tread to easily pass safety and talked to another strom rider who got 22k MILES from his set.
We did no gravel tho...might be a factor

Again, I changed it with a bit of tread left only because I was already at a shop. I could have gone further, but clearly there not enough left to go the entire 17,000km distance. If I hadn't changed in Prince George, I would have been stopping elsewhere a few days later, wasting more time.

By the way, only the rear was changed; there is plenty left on the front.



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you are doing 17k km...wow ..that's a big ride.

I guess both directions tho ....we flew the bikes out saving 5k
 
Day 23, Wednesday June 29, Quesnel, BC to Port Moody, BC, 667km.

Today, I have an appointment: I am to be at my sister's place for supper in Port Moody, a suburb of Vancouver. She and her family have lived there for thirteen years, yet I've never visited.

On the road at 8:30am following a typical continental breakfast: a bowl of cereal, toast, yogurt, fruit, and coffee.

When about to leave, the fellow on the Concours, whose name I forgot, discovered he was low on oil, but he had none. After receiving so much help in recent weeks, now it was my chance to give back. I had exactly what he needed, a half litre of 10W40 synthetic. "Help yourself", I said. His crash bars necessitated the use of a funnel and I just happened to have a couple of disposable paper ones. He thanked me, of course, but it was really the least I could do; I was quite happy to help.

I said goodbye to the guys, and hit the road. It's about a seven hour ride to Port Moody taking the direct route, but I'd chosen to take the longer way, riding highway 99, the Sea to Sky Highway.

I made good time on 97, arriving at the cutoff for 99, just north of Cache Creek, around noon. With about half distance done, I thought I was in good shape. Not so. The ride on the Sea to Sky, while spectacularly scenic, is much slower with more traffic. I remained committed, though, and carried on.

The Sea to Sky is breathtaking. One could stop every two minutes for photos. Incredible views, great riding. The top half is more barren, the road twisting around mountains and rock faces. Some areas remind me of the same scenes you see in a carefully made model railroad, only on a 1:1 scale! Fantastic!

While a lovely ride, progress was slowed by construction and plenty of traffic, including numerous RVs and camping trailers. With so many twists and turns, getting stuck behind one was common, passing opportunities few.

Even heavier traffic south of Whistler, now late afternoon, and it was hot, hot! The rider was becoming cranky.

The Chief, a granite dome in Squamish, was magnificent, but where's the photo? Simply not enough time. However, I did stop for a short walk and a photo at Shannon Falls Provincial Park. The shade of the park was most welcome, the falls themselves glorious.

Now onto the final leg of the day, and the heaviest traffic yet. Rush hour in Vancouver is every bit as bad as Toronto. To make matters worse, the hated GPS had a way point inadvertently added, thus taking me on a ridiculous ride through north west Vancouver. Once I finally figured out all was not right, I'd lost a ton of time and was fuming.

I got back on the right track, at long last arriving at my sister's place at 8:30pm! Twelve hours in the saddle. I was hot, tired, hungry, and generally unhappy. This was the toughest day yet.

My sister was quite concerned with my state, clearly beaten by the day, and quickly ushered me in to a waiting meal. So nice to be off the road and out of the heat, with family who I've not seen for over a year. I was given the royal treatment and slept like a baby.

Tomorrow: Nuthin'!

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Crown Lake, BC

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Shannon Falls Provincial Park.

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In a real garage for the night.

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Yeah Sea to Sky is fab and Van traffic a horror even off peak.
Kid led me on chase for gloves first day we landed ...dad grumbling the whole hot way but he has gotten good use of the gloves,
Once we got on the SS tho traffic not bad and some of the best sweeps and twists I've been on further north- considering the scenery.

That's long day in the saddle especially if it's hot.
 
Some GoPro shots from the Sea to Sky Highway, #99, in British Columbia. Lovely scenery.

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Day 24, Thursday June 30.

A much needed day off spent with family in Port Moody. We actually did very little, which was just fine with me. I chose to skip the big Vancouver tour, not enough time, and I really didn't want to impose on my sister and her busy family. I was happy to lounge around the house. Later in the afternoon I was taken out to tend to a few errands and was given the grand tour of the Burrard Inlet. Looks like a nice place to live.

My sister had an appointment around dinner time, so I was left at home with my 21 year old twin nieces. We had a great time hanging out, talking music, travel, school, and boys!

Once the entire family was back home, we ate and ate. When we were done, we ate some more. What a nice, relaxing day.

Tomorrow: Goodbye BC, hello Washington.

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Try and catch Mount St. Helens ....short diversion and well worth it.

Partner caught this just at sunset ...almost looks like lava is still flowing. It's a superb winding road up to the viewing area and the level of devastation still remaining 30+ years on is incredible.

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Well, I don't imagine anyone cares, but I think I'll finish this ride report. Hardly topical, but come along for the ride anyway. Or not.

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Day 25, Friday July 1, Port Moody, BC to Winthrop, WA, 334km.

A late start today following a hearty family breakfast and plenty of goodbye hugs, I was on the road under overcast skies, refreshed and motivated. I had no particular plan, other than to cross into Washington and make my toward home over the next week across the northern states. With a holiday weekend being celebrated by those on each side of the border, traffic was bound to be heavy. Indeed, the Aldergrove/Lynden crossing was backed up, but the delay wasn't too bad. Certainly nothing like the jammed borders of the Niagara/Buffalo area we're so familiar with.

Choosing to avoid the interstates, I thought the North Cascades Highway, state route 20 looked pretty good, and it did not disappoint. Known as "The Most Beautiful Mountain Highway in the State of Washington.", it winds through small towns and over the Rainy and Washington passes in the North Cascades National Park. Lovely riding.

Once through the park, I came upon the small, old western themed town of Winthrop, WA. A tourist trap for sure, and I was hooked. I stopped for fuel, looked at my watch, gazed at the town, looked at my watch again, then decided to call it quits. There was a nice motel beside the gas station and plenty of interesting spots on the main street.

I unloaded my crap, then took the short ride into town. Dinner at Three Fingered Jack's Saloon, then I wandered the main drag. All the buildings have an old western facade complete with a boardwalk, just like in the movies. The only things missing were hitching posts. One dessert place used saddles as stools. I checked out the sweets, then settled on a scoop of moose tracks and thought of Joe Bass.

Back at the motel, I settled onto the patio with a cool drink. I heard some rustling inside and discovered a small dog had chosen to make himself at home in my room. I asked a few neighbours if they'd lost their dog, but no one knew him. Must be the motel's dog, I figured, and shooed him away.

Tomorrow: Idaho

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Here's a shot I forgot from yesterday. In Port Moody with my sister.

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My twin nieces, brother in law, sister, and nephew.

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Time for goodbye. Thanks for having me!

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Loaded and ready.

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All set for a new day!

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They don't call this town Concrete for nothing! Concrete, WA.

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Time for a break along the North Cascades Highway.

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All aboard!

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Fuel stop in Winthrop, WA. This old pump wasn't actually in use.

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Nice room, but no dogs allowed!

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The main street in Winthrop.

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Joe Bass' ice cream shop.
 
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Day 26, Saturday July 2, Winthrop, WA to Sandpoint, ID, 488km.

It's a beautiful morning, but my rear brake isn't looking so good. I'd been keeping my eye on it the last few weeks, hoping the pads would last 'til home, but it just won't happen. Today is Saturday, so there should be no problem getting a new set of pads. With that in mind, I chose an indirect route to Spokane.

Continuing on SR 20, the ride from Republic to Kettle Falls, which includes the Sherman Pass, was a highlight. Not quite as scenic as yesterday, but a wonderfully winding road. Such pleasure.

I made my way down US 395 and into Spokane, looking for a local MC shop. I found Spokane Powersports, a Honda and Suzuki dealer (had I known of the Triumph dealer in town, I would have gone there). The guy at the parts counter had a little trouble identifying the correct part, but between the two of us, we figured it out. With new pads in hand, I set about the job. Just as I had ripped apart all my gear and got to my tools, a fellow came out and informed me they're closing up at three o'clock, ten minutes from now. The lot is gated, so I had to move on. The Lowes parking lot across the street looked good to me. No trouble installing the pads, though my thumb was still a bit painful from my off, and I was unable to retract the pistons by hand. No problem, though; I went into the Lowes and bought a cheap C clamp.

Carrying north on US 2, I aimed for Newport and the Washington/Idaho border. Sandpoint, ID looked like a nice place to lay down. Hot and tired, I once again convinced myself I was worthy of a motel room rather than a tent. The proprietor of The K2 Inn was a very nice, accommodating guy. After fueling the bike and unloading, I checked in with my wife back home, then spied a tiny and dingy tavern across the street. "I'll go hang out with the locals", I thought. After a number of beers and some good conversation, I was actually feeling a bit buzzed, so ruled out any further motorcycle action. The chap at the K2 recommended a local pizza delivery. He suggested I would be unlikely to finish a small pie on my own. "We'll see about that. Challenge accepted!", I sez. Apparently, they take their pizza seriously in this town. When it arrived, I needed a small crane to get it into the room. He was right; even my big appetite couldn't get it all down. Looks like cold pizza for lunch tomorrow. Okay with me.

Tomorrow: Welcome to Big Sky Country!

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Republic, WA

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Time to bust out the tools.

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Much better!

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Get your fix in Spokane!

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The K2 Inn.
 
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Day 27, Sunday July 3, Sandpoint, ID to White Earth campground on the Canyon Ferry Reservoir near Townsend, MT 546km.

Sunday morning and it's another glorious day! I began on SH-200 towards Montana and came upon a most interesting find in Clark Fork, ID.. An old auto graveyard. Dozens of rusted out cars, trucks, and busses. The place was deserted, so I had a brief look around. So many great old vehicles long forgotten; I wonder what stories and secrets they hide? Fabulous!

SH-200 crosses into Montana and roughly parallels I90 on the way to Missoula. I stopped for a break and a bite along a winding river somewhere around Dixon. A quick blast on the interstate, at the posted limit of 80mph, then back on 200 towards Avon. I've noticed that every town in Montana, big or small, have casinos, some open twenty four hours. I've also realized that I'm a bit of an odd ball around here. There are plenty of motorcycles, and almost all of them are Harley Davidson. Just about every rider is without a helmet; merely an observation, not a judgment.

I took MT141 to Avon, a very lonely but lovely ride. When they say Big Sky Country, they mean it! Wow! From Avon to Helena on US Route 12. Nearing the end of the day, I stopped for gas and enquired about a place to stay. The young girl wasn't very helpful, but suggested the county fairgrounds would be a good place to pitch a tent. The place turned out to be deserted, but also wide open. It didn't look like the best spot for stealth camping, so I moved on.

Onto US287 towards Townsend, where I spied a roadside sign about a campground. I followed the gravel road, but it seemed to go on forever! A truck passing the opposite way confirmed I was on the right track. Finally, I arrived to the half full White Earth Campground along the shore of the Canyon Ferry Reservoir. Perfect. I chose a spot right at the water and was heartily greeted by a smiling guy and a fist bump. Before I was even off the bike, he started telling me various reason why I shouldn't pick this spot. "I have little kids." I like kids. "I have noisy dogs." I love dogs. "I play loud music." I dig music. Through all this, he remained friendly and smiling. Finally, he lowered his voice and took on a more serious tone: "No really. You can't camp here." I was tired and didn't really want to engage this guy. There were plenty of other spots.

I found a spot in the shadow of an RV, very handy. The park ranger came by and we had a pleasant chat. She seemed amused when I asked about bears. "No, no bears around here", she chuckled. We shared some of the left over blue berries my sister had sent me off with. I didn't bother mentioning Mr. Anti Social.

Tomorrow: Yellowstone!

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The beautiful blue water of Lake Pend Oreille, ID

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Auto grave yard.

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Studebaker, I think.

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Fantastic!

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SH-200 along the Flathead River, near Perma, MT. Beautiful.

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Same spot, different angle.

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US route 12, east of Avon.

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US route 12 between Avon and Helena.

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Some favour Obama, some do not.

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Helena fuel stop. More of this, please.

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Home for the night.
 
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Day 28, Monday July 4, Townsend, MT to Joliet, MT, via Yellowstone National Park 517km.

I woke early today, just in time catch a shot of a beautiful sunrise over the water. I rode into Townsend and had a breakfast sandwich, juice, and coffee at the gas station. Back on US12, then south on US89 towards Yellowstone National Park. US89 north of I90 was deserted, nothing but me and the cattle ranches, but still a pleasant ride.

I paid my twenty five bucks for a week long park pass; too bad I could only spend half a day. Yellowstone is absolutely stunning, different terrain and views every minute. Breathtaking. But also a tourist rap, of course. Plenty of traffic, lots of RVs. There is wildlife to be seen just about everywhere. At one point, the traffic slowed to a crawl, a bear on a hill at the side of the road causing lots of excitement. I thought about riding further south to see Old Faithful, but given the traffic and the time to wait for the next eruption, whenever that might be, I decided to skip it.

The kindness and generosity of others continues to surprise. I stopped at a rest area for some water and a bite. The fellow parked beside me with his family offers a sandwich. I politely declined, but thanked him anyway.

On my way out of the park, I passed a herd of grazing bison. Dozens and dozens of them, if not hundreds. Fantastic!

The skies were becoming dark looking east. Great. That's where I was headed, the Beartooth Highway, said to be one of the most scenic in all of America. Running about 69 miles from Cook City to Red Lodge, the highlight, of course, is the summit of Beartooth Pass at nearly 11,000 feet above sea level.

The further I went, the worse the weather became. The road continued to rise, the landscape becoming barren, snow banks on either side. Now in driving rain and incredible wind, the road went on in a seemingly never ending series of zig zags and switchbacks. It would have been spectacular on a nicer day, but today was downright treacherous. I didn't stop for any photos, so bad was the weather. To make matters worse, I forgot to turn my GoPro on.

Finally beyond the summit, and the weather magically cleared. Sunny skies and drying pavement ahead. A fun ride all the way down and into Red Lodge. It looked like a fine town, but way too rich for me. I carried on US212 and parked it at a mom 'n pop motel in Joliet, MT. Unloaded my stuff, then took the short ride to the J-Bar & Grill, home of the "biker special". Five bucks for a cheese burger, fries, and a beer. What a deal!

There I met Star, a native American who told stories of riding Alaska in the seventies. A lifelong rider and Vietnam vet, he was still going strong at 70 years old. He rode a decked out Indian, but approved of my Tiger.

Back at the motel, a husband and wife offered me a steak dinner. Nice folks, poor timing.

Critter count: numerous elk, a bear, and dozens, if not hundreds of bison, all in Yellowstone.

Tomorrow: South Dakota

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Beautiful sunrise.

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Devil's Slide on US89, in Montana just north of Yellowstone.

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Check that map!

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Lots of bicycle riders and hikers along the way.

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Yellowstone National Park. "For the benefit and enjoyment of the people"

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"That'll be $25.00!"

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Critters in Yellowstone.

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More of 'em under the trees.

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Fantastic views in Yellowstone National Park.

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Come a bit closer, bud.

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A bear on the hill side.

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Bison. Lots of bison.

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Taken at the north east corner of Yellowstone, looking west.
 
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More Monday photos:

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This guy preferred to hang out on his own.

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Clear, blue skies coming down Beartooth. It's amazing how quickly the weather changed within thirty minutes.

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Fun, fun, fun!

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All these motels are beginning to look the same.
 
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