This and That | Page 11 | GTAMotorcycle.com

This and That

My vote is either the front trim ring turns slightly and then pulls out or (less likely) there is a screw through that hole on the bottom of the light. Option C is there seems to be a notch between the trim ring and reflector, that may be a pry point to pop the trim ring off.

The four smooth bolt head that you see are probably holding the mounting plates into the reflector.

Once you get it open, unplug the bulb and a multimeter will tell you if the bulb is good (and if the generator is good).
 
@GreyGhost I'm going to look at the notch tomorrow. That seems like the best bet. As RB said, I think the screws on the bottom are only to hold the light bracket.
And because I don't know much, what reading am I looking for on the multimeter?

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Joe Bass said:
@GreyGhost I'm going to look at the notch tomorrow. That seems like the best bet. As RB said, I think the screws on the bottom are only to hold the light bracket.
And because I don't know much, what reading am I looking for on the multimeter?

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Click to expand...

I'm going with that trim ring popping off

as for the meter, to test the bulb I guess?
ohm setting, expecting to see some resistance
zero ohm = open circuit...would likely be able to see a broken filament if it's open
for that little dynamo...not sure, DC volts I guess, measured while you're riding

neat bike
 
Joe Bass said:
@GreyGhost I'm going to look at the notch tomorrow. That seems like the best bet. As RB said, I think the screws on the bottom are only to hold the light bracket.
And because I don't know much, what reading am I looking for on the multimeter?

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Click to expand...

With the bulb disconnected, check the bulb for resistance. If the multimeter shows open circuit when touching the bulb contacts (whatever it shows when the leads are not touching anything), the bulb is dead. Take pics of bulb and post here if you have trouble finding a replacement. Normally the voltage and wattage is on the metal base, but god knows on something that old.

Set the multimeter to DC (range somewhere between 12 and 50 volts should work) and connect the leads to the wires from the generator. Spin the generator and you should get some reading. If you don't get a reading, try switching to AC (I haven't played with one of these in forever, I can't remember how they work). Positive or negative values don't matter. The voltage will probably vary with speed. If you get no voltage, you need to try to get to the other end of the wire and repeat the tests as the generator may be fine but the wire has failed.
 
JavaFan said:
I'm going with that trim ring popping off

as for the meter, to test the bulb I guess?
ohm setting, expecting to see some resistance
zero ohm = open circuit...would likely be able to see a broken filament if it's open
for that little dynamo...not sure, DC volts I guess, measured while you're riding

neat bike
Click to expand...

Zero ohms should never equal open circuit (although with the quality of some multimeters, I can't say that it won't). Zero ohms should be a perfect circuit (which unless you zero out the leads you will never see as most multimeters will read 1 to 3 ohms with the leads touching).
 
I stand corrected, zero ohms is complete continuity, zero resistance
open circuit will read something out of range
 
Might want to go down to 6VDC up to 12. Really, you simply want to check for continuity. Easy things first, make sure the bulb is ok. Other than that, some cleaning might be all it needs.
 
Joe Bass said:
Thinking of restoring this bike for my wife. It used to be her dad's and she is attached to it. Plus it's kinda cool.
Click to expand...

It is cool. Olmo has been around since '38 and built some nice high end race bikes. I'd try to get the OEM light going. Failing that, I'd find a working version of the same system on ebay or FB, gut it, and swap out the parts into the OEM dynamo and light housings to retain the provenance. I'm OCD about stuff like that, though.

43572345362_2fcc7320ef_b.jpg


olmo-competition-classic-steel-bicycle-1.JPG
 
Thanks @GreyGhost @Riceburner and @FullMotoJacket
My wife dumped another 2 projects on me but I will get to that as soon as I can and post back.
Olmo had a good strong first name. I'm quite fond of Giuseppes lol

One of the grips is torn. I'd like to keep them as close to original as possible. They look like the type that they used to use on low rider bicycles, so hopefully shouldn't be an issue.
A bike mech looked at it. He said the crank thingy needs to be repacked or something because there is some play.
Also said will need new pads, but warned that braking at any higher speed will cause noise as the rims are steel and any new pads will do that.


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Repacking the bottom bracket isn't a big deal, just regular maintenance. If you're mechanically comfortable, packing it, (i.e. greasing it up), is easy enough. Re-assemble snug. Grips are a matter of finding them...retro and all.
 
Quick little update on the bike:
Now that the eyes are better, I took another stab at the light.
Noticed that I could just pop off the housing.
Look inside and pull out the bulb.
Bulb is ok. Damn. Look for something else then.....
Notice a second wire attached that I didn't really pay attention to before.
Follow it and it is attached to...........A REAR LIGHT!
Hook the drill up to it and.....bam! Rear light works!
So what's wrong with the front?
Take bulb out, notice some grime. Clean where all connections are and retry......we have lights!
So bike resto has started.
Getting the new grips and presently taking steel wool to the rims.

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Hey GTAM, help me out, please:

My brother is looking at a project bike and wasn't sure of something...

Yamaha sr500(?) Seller says "shifter linkage is broken".

Is this an internal issue?

Will he have to take apart part of the motor?

Y'all know that I really don't know ish about this stuff.

Thanks for any help.


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Lightcycle said:
No, it's an external part:

View attachment 42890

Should be easy to replace with just hand tools.
Click to expand...
Is that a picture of an sr500? If so , what year? The sr500 from the 70's had no external linkage, not 100% sure about the 85/6 model.
Edit: the mid 80's model did have an external linkage but not the earlier models.

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Last edited:
As long as it's not this one lol!


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GTAM!
I need your help!

2005 Honda Pilot

Driving last night to pick up dinner. Get back in and the headlights are no longer working.
Slim chance that one was out and then they both went as one was changed about 6 weeks ago, the other a few months ago.
Daylight runners and hi beams work.

Grabbed another bulb just in case and no go.

As I checked the fuse box, I only see one labeled for the daytime runners, and that's ok.

I'm guessing there isn't another fuse? (Diagram attached)

Am I looking at maybe having to replace a relay or the light switch?
46e0940c9d3ba93d289678c70e5ce822.jpg


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I believe there are three fuse boxes - the one you found, another one hidden behind the kick panel on the passenger side, and a third one in the engine compartment on the passenger side. You want the one in the engine compartment
 
TwistedKestrel said:
I believe there are three fuse boxes - the one you found, another one hidden behind the kick panel on the passenger side, and a third one in the engine compartment on the passenger side. You want the one in the engine compartment
Click to expand...
Thank you
Fuses #3 & #8 20 A, both intact

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