10,000km service. Anything I am forgetting? | GTAMotorcycle.com

10,000km service. Anything I am forgetting?

Drennan57

Well-known member
Gonna price out a handful of things tomorrow.

Breaks bled / new fluid
Coolant flush / new fluid
New sprockets and chain
New plugs
New air filter

I did the oil an filter change before spring myself an put a new rear tire on it.

Anything you guys recommend? Thanks
 
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There will be a list in the owners manual.

Why sprockets and chain so early, are you hard on them?
 
There will be a list in the owners manual.

Why sprockets and chain so early, are you hard on them?

I'm going 1 tooth up to fix the speedo (reads high from factory). Figured it would be good to just do them both while it's in the shop.

Besides what's the point of having money if you can't waste any of it amiright ;)
 
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the 10k service is critical for keeping your bike in top condition. in addition to the aforementioned items you should definitely :

adjust muffler bearing freeplay
top up horn fluid
replace battery filter
retorque nuts on johnson rod
upgrade to cross drilled break lines
 
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Check fairings for cracks and scratches, put an end to riding season when in doubt.
 
Check fairings for cracks and scratches, put an end to riding season when in doubt.

Structural cracks and scratches are unique to Italian brands. Just ask MV Augusta.
 
the 10k service is critical for keeping your bike in top condition. in addition to the aforementioned items you should definitely :

adjust muffler bearing freeplay
top up horn fluid
replace battery filter
retorque nuts on johnson rod
upgrade to cross drilled break lines

You missed the axle grease and blinker fluid...or are those good until 20,000?
 
Pick up a wrench and do it all yourself. It's all easy stuff.

via Tapatalk
 
Pick up a wrench and do it all yourself. It's all easy stuff.

via Tapatalk

I don't have a break bleeder kit and honestly i just don't have the time to do all this right now. I work 70+ hour weeks and the rest of the time is spent sleeping and spending time with my daughter. I rather ride for the 5% of time i get to myself.
 
Of all the things you listed, Drennan57, none of it needs doing at 10,000. I took my bike with 12,000kms (Fz8s) over to Ace MotoTech, and he adjusted my clutch a bit (which was free), and he said I already adjusted my chain on my own properly. Nothing else needed.

When do you think you bleed and add new brake fluid for your car? 10,000kms? Same with plugs and air filter. Too early. These modern motorcycle engines ain't far off a car engine.
 
Gonna price out a handful of things tomorrow.

Breaks bled / new fluid
Coolant flush / new fluid
New sprockets and chain
New plugs
New air filter

I did the oil an filter change before spring myself an put a new rear tire on it.

Anything you guys recommend? Thanks

--You don't need to flush the coolant unless the bike is 5 years old.

--You do not need to bleed the brakes before 5 years unless you have opened the hydraulic system to change brake components.

--If the bike is a few years old, have any clutch and brake cables removed and lubricated. This makes a tremendous difference in how the controls feel.

--You won't need new plugs. Modern plugs last 20-50,000kms depending on how hot the bike runs. Modern ethanol based fuel burns clean. You just need to have the gap checked. They should be okay.

-- Check your brake pads, especially the front ones. They wear out the fastest. If there is any wobble or vibration when the brakes are applied have the rotors checked for runout.

--If there is any shimmy or vibration coming from the bike at speed have the bearings checked.

At 10,000km there shouldn't be anything wrong other than brake pads.
 
What bike do you have?

Did you get an owners manual with it? Check the manual.

Otherwise, you'll be dealing with blinker fluid, and nut that holds the handlebars comments.
 
--You don't need to flush the coolant unless the bike is 5 years old.

--You do not need to bleed the brakes before 5 years unless you have opened the hydraulic system to change brake components.

--If the bike is a few years old, have any clutch and brake cables removed and lubricated. This makes a tremendous difference in how the controls feel.

--You won't need new plugs. Modern plugs last 20-50,000kms depending on how hot the bike runs. Modern ethanol based fuel burns clean. You just need to have the gap checked. They should be okay.

-- Check your brake pads, especially the front ones. They wear out the fastest. If there is any wobble or vibration when the brakes are applied have the rotors checked for runout.

--If there is any shimmy or vibration coming from the bike at speed have the bearings checked.

At 10,000km there shouldn't be anything wrong other than brake pads.

Thank you for the detailed post, appreciate it.

The only thing I'm positive needs to be done is the brake fluid. It's black, zero transparency.

Bikes a 2012.
 
I aim for brake fluid change every two years.The frequency of any task really depends on the type of bike it is and how it's used (or abused).I check the head bearings about twice a year on my Ossa.But the bike takes a lot of abuse with the front wheel in the air most of the time.The Couchrockets brakes have to slow down 930lbs.They get looked at more frequently than a bike that weighs half that.
Like Baggsy said...check the manual.
 
I don't have a break (sic) bleeder kit...

You don't need one. A piece of clear tubing and the appropriate wrench for the bleed screws. That's it.

And it's "brake".



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You don't need one. A piece of clear tubing and the appropriate wrench for the bleed screws. That's it.

And it's "brake".



via Tapatalk

Didn't even notice lol. Going more then 26 hours with no sleep plays tricks on your mind.

I might get energetic on an off day and give it a go, would prefer to have an experienced overwatch but what can ya do.
 
Flush the coolant, i wouldnt wait 5 years, its usually fairly simple. Flush the brake fluid front and back if its not a light honey color, shouldnt need to bleed it if done properly. Pull the plugs and see how they are and put a new filter in if needed. Lube pivot points, check chain slack and you should be good to go.
 

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