I've run Rotella T6 in all of my bikes, for street and track use. Motorcycle specific oils are nothing more than a marketing scam.
... no. Motorcycle specific oils lack friction modifiers so your clutch doesnt slip. The reason you can run T6 is because its diesel oil and also lacks friction modifiers. If you dumped motomaster car oil into your bike, you will **** up your clutch.
Heard Castrol's 10w40 works better than oils like motul etc , this apparently came from track rider, for an 07 r1
something to do with less chemicals in Castrol , which helps in clutch plate friction ????
any other opinions on this ???
300V is a racing oil. These are not meant for longer drain intervals. I found in my engine that it foamed up a lot.
I'm skeptical of Lucas (and Royal Purple) ... too much marketing. Ask yourself this. Why does Lucas sell an "oil stabilizer"? Whatever's in that stabilizer, why is it not in the oil to begin with, thus eliminating the need for the extra additive?
You have to be careful with oils (and automotive fluids in general) nowadays. Additive packages optimized for one application may not be suitable for others. Automotive oils don't have to deal with the shared gearbox and wet clutch. Some automotive oils have proven okay in "actual field service" ... but that's subject to change if the oil formulation changes, and that isn't always something that gets advertised.
Motul 5100 is good. It's designed for motorcycle applications with wet clutches and shared gearboxes and it's not a "racing" oil which means it should be good for longer (i.e. normal) oil change intervals.
I've used Rotella for a long time without issues. In new bikes I'll stay with the bike specific stuff, though, and Motul 5100 is a good choice.
Just switched from Rotella to 300V to see how it affects shifting and my engine got noticeably quieter. I'll have to see how it goes over the weekend.
Corn or Canola?I only run 100% pure organic oil. My bike runs cooler, shifting is smoother and it's better for the environment.
I only run 100% pure organic oil. My bike runs cooler, shifting is smoother and it's better for the environment.
I've run Rotella T6 in all of my bikes, for street and track use. Motorcycle specific oils are nothing more than a marketing scam.
300V is a racing oil. These are not meant for longer drain intervals. I found in my engine that it foamed up a lot.
I'm skeptical of Lucas (and Royal Purple) ... too much marketing. Ask yourself this. Why does Lucas sell an "oil stabilizer"? Whatever's in that stabilizer, why is it not in the oil to begin with, thus eliminating the need for the extra additive?
You have to be careful with oils (and automotive fluids in general) nowadays. Additive packages optimized for one application may not be suitable for others. Automotive oils don't have to deal with the shared gearbox and wet clutch. Some automotive oils have proven okay in "actual field service" ... but that's subject to change if the oil formulation changes, and that isn't always something that gets advertised.
Motul 5100 is good. It's designed for motorcycle applications with wet clutches and shared gearboxes and it's not a "racing" oil which means it should be good for longer (i.e. normal) oil change intervals.
I've used Rotella for a long time without issues. In new bikes I'll stay with the bike specific stuff, though, and Motul 5100 is a good choice.