Castrol 10w40 from canadian tire vs Motul 5100 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Castrol 10w40 from canadian tire vs Motul 5100

zx6r_98

Well-known member
Heard Castrol's 10w40 works better than oils like motul etc , this apparently came from track rider, for an 07 r1

something to do with less chemicals in Castrol , which helps in clutch plate friction ????

any other opinions on this ???
 
I've run Rotella T6 in all of my bikes, for street and track use. Motorcycle specific oils are nothing more than a marketing scam.
 
I've run Rotella T6 in all of my bikes, for street and track use. Motorcycle specific oils are nothing more than a marketing scam.

... no. Motorcycle specific oils lack friction modifiers so your clutch doesnt slip. The reason you can run T6 is because its diesel oil and also lacks friction modifiers. If you dumped motomaster car oil into your bike, you will **** up your clutch.
 
Motul all the way !
 
OP you left out if this is Castrol MC oil
Energy conserving oil is no good for wet clutches.
 
My brother runs car oil in his bike for years. Depends on the bike
 
Yes, I get that. What I'm saying is that any suitable oil, without friction modifiers is fine. Anything marketed specifically for motorcycles is a scam.


... no. Motorcycle specific oils lack friction modifiers so your clutch doesnt slip. The reason you can run T6 is because its diesel oil and also lacks friction modifiers. If you dumped motomaster car oil into your bike, you will **** up your clutch.
 
Heard Castrol's 10w40 works better than oils like motul etc , this apparently came from track rider, for an 07 r1

something to do with less chemicals in Castrol , which helps in clutch plate friction ????

any other opinions on this ???

Well if he rides on the track he must know what he's talking about....lol

I ran 300V for two seasons. The first couple times I used it I noticed that towards the end of the day my motor started to get really noisy and it was coming from the bottom end. I was so concerned I had the bike put on the Dyno to see if we could replicate the noise (but couldn't). This year I'm switching to Lucas Oil. I didn't get many laps in last weekend but I noticed that the noise wasn't there. I've heard good things about Lucas from a few people.
 
300V is a racing oil. These are not meant for longer drain intervals. I found in my engine that it foamed up a lot.

I'm skeptical of Lucas (and Royal Purple) ... too much marketing. Ask yourself this. Why does Lucas sell an "oil stabilizer"? Whatever's in that stabilizer, why is it not in the oil to begin with, thus eliminating the need for the extra additive?

You have to be careful with oils (and automotive fluids in general) nowadays. Additive packages optimized for one application may not be suitable for others. Automotive oils don't have to deal with the shared gearbox and wet clutch. Some automotive oils have proven okay in "actual field service" ... but that's subject to change if the oil formulation changes, and that isn't always something that gets advertised.

Motul 5100 is good. It's designed for motorcycle applications with wet clutches and shared gearboxes and it's not a "racing" oil which means it should be good for longer (i.e. normal) oil change intervals.

I've used Rotella for a long time without issues. In new bikes I'll stay with the bike specific stuff, though, and Motul 5100 is a good choice.
 
300V is a racing oil. These are not meant for longer drain intervals. I found in my engine that it foamed up a lot.

I'm skeptical of Lucas (and Royal Purple) ... too much marketing. Ask yourself this. Why does Lucas sell an "oil stabilizer"? Whatever's in that stabilizer, why is it not in the oil to begin with, thus eliminating the need for the extra additive?

You have to be careful with oils (and automotive fluids in general) nowadays. Additive packages optimized for one application may not be suitable for others. Automotive oils don't have to deal with the shared gearbox and wet clutch. Some automotive oils have proven okay in "actual field service" ... but that's subject to change if the oil formulation changes, and that isn't always something that gets advertised.

Motul 5100 is good. It's designed for motorcycle applications with wet clutches and shared gearboxes and it's not a "racing" oil which means it should be good for longer (i.e. normal) oil change intervals.

I've used Rotella for a long time without issues. In new bikes I'll stay with the bike specific stuff, though, and Motul 5100 is a good choice.

I'm not sure why they have an oil stabilizer. Team Westby racing use(d) it and said the motor was in great shape when it was torn down. Another local builder swears by it in 4 stroke dirty bikes. They also sponsor WERA and many other racing organizations. To me that's marketing but also giving back to the community.

I changed the 300V every weekend or track day and as I stated my engine got noisy towards the end of the day. Was it doing any harm? Probably not, just an observation. Maybe switching to a 10w-50 might have helped??

As far as the Castrol bike oil goes, I'm sure it's fine. Changing your oil regularly with cheap oil is better then trying to run long intervals with expensive oil.
 
Just switched from Rotella to 300V to see how it affects shifting and my engine got noticeably quieter. I'll have to see how it goes over the weekend.

It only happened later on at the end of the day when the bike had been run hard for maybe 4-5 sessions in warm weather. You may not get it and I still used it for two seasons with no issues. It was unnerving when it happened the first time and after we put it on the Dyno I just figured "it is what it is". I'll have a proper review of the Lucas Oil after this weekend but one thing I didn't notice after switching was any difference in how the bike shifted. That's a good sign.

As far as Motul and marketing....also notice the oil sponsor on the bottom of PJ's bike.


After thinking about the title of the thread, I would use Motul 5100 over the Castrol but that's because I feel it would better suit what I need from an oil. For a street bike, flip a coin or spin around in circles in the oil section and pick one as long as it's rated for bikes.
 
I only run 100% pure organic oil. My bike runs cooler, shifting is smoother and it's better for the environment.
 
I only run 100% pure organic oil. My bike runs cooler, shifting is smoother and it's better for the environment.
Corn or Canola?
 
I've run Rotella T6 in all of my bikes, for street and track use. Motorcycle specific oils are nothing more than a marketing scam.

300V is a racing oil. These are not meant for longer drain intervals. I found in my engine that it foamed up a lot.

I'm skeptical of Lucas (and Royal Purple) ... too much marketing. Ask yourself this. Why does Lucas sell an "oil stabilizer"? Whatever's in that stabilizer, why is it not in the oil to begin with, thus eliminating the need for the extra additive?

You have to be careful with oils (and automotive fluids in general) nowadays. Additive packages optimized for one application may not be suitable for others. Automotive oils don't have to deal with the shared gearbox and wet clutch. Some automotive oils have proven okay in "actual field service" ... but that's subject to change if the oil formulation changes, and that isn't always something that gets advertised.

Motul 5100 is good. It's designed for motorcycle applications with wet clutches and shared gearboxes and it's not a "racing" oil which means it should be good for longer (i.e. normal) oil change intervals.

I've used Rotella for a long time without issues. In new bikes I'll stay with the bike specific stuff, though, and Motul 5100 is a good choice.

Rotella T-6 is JASO-MA certified so if the 5-40 weight is applicable to your bike you are a okay; and if they change the formulation they must re-certify, so you would have some forewarning. (i.e. the certification disappearing from the label)
 

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