can you do 2nd gear clutch ups on a 600cc with stock sprockets | GTAMotorcycle.com

can you do 2nd gear clutch ups on a 600cc with stock sprockets

cbr600_brandon

Well-known member
hey guys I can ride 1st gear wheelies really good almost bp and I can do amazing stand ups that was on my gsxr600 and sit downs on a fz6r now I had a 2002 cbr 600 f4i and do you think I can pop 2nd gear clutch ups on stock gearing let me know what revs you slip the clutch and ****
 
hey guys I can ride 1st gear wheelies really good almost bp and I can do amazing stand ups that was on my gsxr600 and sit downs on a fz6r now I had a 2002 cbr 600 f4i and do you think I can pop 2nd gear clutch ups on stock gearing let me know what revs you slip the clutch and ****

I dont have an F4i, but on a stock 636 I can clutch up 4th. Also if your sitting its harder, standing would be much easier then sit down. Its all technique, so long as you have a good clutch. If your clutch it burnt its going to be really hard to clutch up. And you would be surprised at how many bikes I get in my shop where the owner thinks their clutch is fine and I show them its toasted and black and blue
 
I dont have an F4i, but on a stock 636 I can clutch up 4th. Also if your sitting its harder, standing would be much easier then sit down. Its all technique, so long as you have a good clutch. If your clutch it burnt its going to be really hard to clutch up. And you would be surprised at how many bikes I get in my shop where the owner thinks their clutch is fine and I show them its toasted and black and blue
my f4i has 36,000 km if the clutch Is stock would it be fried
 
my f4i has 36,000 km if the clutch Is stock would it be fried

Depends on you and how you operate it, a clutch can last 100,000KM or you can burn it out without moving a foot...Ive seen people burn their clutch out trying to do a burnout on new bikes, they dont even move one foot and they toast the clutch. Having to leave the bike right where it is, because they roasted it so bad it will not even move forward anymore...

Its all in the operator, I cant say because I dont know you and how your ride....If I inspect it and its black and blue then its toast

Last person I did a clutch for was on a 2012 BMW S1000R, he said clutch was fine but bike acted funny when trying to leave from a stop...I took it out at it was toasted! Weather he wanted to believe it or not, he roasted that clutch...After replacing it he said the bike feels totally different, front wheel wants to lift just accelerating...Yes thats what a BMW S1000 in proper mechanical working order should do....

Also when I started stunting I did not have the clutch technique down, and I used to burn a clutch out every season or so. Now after 10 years clutching up wheelies I pretty much got it on lock, and I have not burnt a clutch in a few seasons...When you do it right you are not wearing the clutch, when you do it wrong you are...So the more you get it wrong the worse it is on clutch wear...Same with a burnout, do it right and your good, do it wrong and you can toast your clutch before you even break the tires loose...
 
Last edited:
Depends on you and how you operate it, a clutch can last 100,000KM or you can burn it out without moving a foot...Ive seen people burn their clutch out trying to do a burnout on new bikes, they dont even move one foot and they toast the clutch. Having to leave the bike right where it is, because they roasted it so bad it will not even move forward anymore...

Its all in the operator, I cant say because I dont know you and how your ride....If I inspect it and its black and blue then its toast

Last person I did a clutch for was on a 2012 BMW S1000R, he said clutch was fine but bike acted funny when trying to leave from a stop...I took it out at it was toasted! Weather he wanted to believe it or not, he roasted that clutch...After replacing it he said the bike feels totally different, front wheel wants to lift just accelerating...Yes thats what a BMW S1000 in proper mechanical working order should do....

Also when I started stunting I did not have the clutch technique down, and I used to burn a clutch out every season or so. Now after 10 years clutching up wheelies I pretty much got it on lock, and I have not burnt a clutch in a few seasons...When you do it right you are not wearing the clutch, when you do it wrong you are...So the more you get it wrong the worse it is on clutch wear...Same with a burnout, do it right and your good, do it wrong and you can toast your clutch before you even break the tires loose...
thanks for the tips and I don't know how the last owners where on the bike . but I don't do any of those things to my clutch lol even when I do a burn out I don't burn my clutch
 
You can clutch wheelie on any 600 in second.
 
Yeah Im not gonna judge your riding, just letting you know it happens and can affect how easily the bike will clutch up

Here if you can view it my buddy made a funny video of some guy at Wasga beach burning his clutch doing a failed burnout attempt LOL Classic!
https://www.facebook.com/tom.omasta...203174133026877&ref=notif&notif_t=video_reply

Have you happened to come across any good videos or explanations on how to properly use the clutch to limit wear? Only real difference I can think of is how quickly you let it out.

Last video I saw, the guy was recommending to be accelerating, pull in, then let out the clutch. Faster acceleration, or deeper/longer clutch pull as required.
 
Last edited:
Have you happened to come across any good videos or explanations on how to properly use the clutch to limit wear? Only real difference I can think of is how quickly you let it out.

Last video I saw, the guy was recommending to be accelerating, pull in, then let out the clutch. Faster acceleration, or deeper/longer clutch pull as required.


There are a lot of videos out there but its really hard to describe clutch feeling in a video, and its all about feel. In a video they will say pull in the clutch, let the revs climb, then release or dump the clutch. However its not so on/off like a light switch like they describe, its all about feel. Feeling the sweet spot where the friction point is, and using that, but not too much that your holding it at the friction point for longer then needed, while revving which will give more wear to the clutch...

Then there is also personal preference, I adjust my clutches so they grab right at the end when the lever is almost all the way out. Other people I ride with like their clutch to start grabbing right away, and that will change how the technique needs to be applied...Nothing beats getting out there and trying, getting a feel for it, you will know when you get it right and the bike pops right up instantly to where you want it. Or when you get it wrong and the bike struggles to wheelie and requires more throttle to get it up. The sound and feel when you get it up easily is pretty satisfying, youll feel that you got it right
 

Back
Top Bottom