Bolt extractors | GTAMotorcycle.com

Bolt extractors

E

esphoto

Well-known member
Just a quick question for anyone who has dealt with broken exhaust bolts in the head. How well do the extractors work? Any tips or tricks to know ahead of time?

I am trying to get it out by dremeling a slot and using a flat head impact first but if that doesn't work I'm on to the extractors...I was hoping there was enough thread for the two nut trick but no luck there.
 
I have used stud extractors like this before when I was doing a turbo job. Worked great.

http://images.esellerpro.com/2921/I/507/4/SS292C.jpg

esphoto said:
Just a quick question for anyone who has dealt with broken exhaust bolts in the head. How well do the extractors work? Any tips or tricks to know ahead of time?

I am trying to get it out by dremeling a slot and using a flat head impact first but if that doesn't work I'm on to the extractors...I was hoping there was enough thread for the two nut trick but no luck there.
Click to expand...
 
esphoto said:
didn't even think of something like that...hmm, there may just be enough room
Click to expand...

As long as there is about 1" of the threaded portion remaining, it should work. Just remember to run a tap through things, then use copper based high temp anti-seize so you can get it off next time. Good luck.
 
I paid a local guy $50 and he was done in 15min with the engine on the tailgate of my truck. Call around, it may be easier then struggling yourself or making a bigger mess. He was a mobile bolt extractor guy but it was just as easy for me to take the motor back out and bring it to him as it was a motor mount bolt that had broken off flush.
 
Looks like I'm back to the extractor method then, there is only about 1/4" sticking out on the head.
 
dricked said:
I paid a local guy $50 and he was done in 15min with the engine on the tailgate of my truck. Call around, it may be easier then struggling yourself or making a bigger mess. He was a mobile bolt extractor guy but it was just as easy for me to take the motor back out and bring it to him as it was a motor mount bolt that had broken off flush.
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I may if all else fails, or if I start spending too much time on it. Almost ready to put the engine back in so I'm hoping to task this week.
 
esphoto said:
I may if all else fails, or if I start spending too much time on it. Almost ready to put the engine back in so I'm hoping to task this week.
Click to expand...

Ya if it's already out it's easier for you as the person doesn't need to be mobile. My situation was a bit difficult as the case had been re-nickisilled (sp?) and they didn't remove all the media after the cases were cleaned. When I put the bolt in it only went 2/3 and got jammed on the crud but as it was being threaded in it knocked some of the crap loose in the threads which fell on the back of the bolt so the bolt wouldn't go in or out. It felt a bit rough going in but it was already 1/2 way hand tight. The extractor guy drilled it and removed all the old bolt, chased the threads and I ordered a new bolt. Lesson learned.
 
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Sounds like you broke an exhaust stud.
Take the motor to a welder and have him/her weld a nut on the end of the broken stud. Immediately after the nut is welded, while it is still hot, give the stud a solid rap with a hammer, then turn the stud out.
 
bitzz said:
Sounds like you broke an exhaust stud.
Take the motor to a welder and have him/her weld a nut on the end of the broken stud. Immediately after the nut is welded, while it is still hot, give the stud a solid rap with a hammer, then turn the stud out.
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Certainly did...head snapped right off of the bolt on the last f'n bolt. I'm trying to avoid moving the engine though, I have it on a table I made and getting it up there was enough of a pain that I couldn't imagine trying to get it in and out of the car. If I can't get it out myself, I may take it somewhere after I mount it into the bike...1 bolt missing for a short jaunt shouldn't be a huge deal right?
 
There are a million different approaches to extracting studs / bolts / nuts etc. And there are tons of tool designs to go along. Its all about experience and feeling the threads.

Leave as much material on there as possible so if one approach fails - you will have some meat on there to try another.

Is the head alumimum ? the stud must be ferrous ?

POST a picture - so we can see what you are working with .
 
If you have not done so already, DO NOT apply heat to the broken stud yet.


Most of the time removing a broken stud involves drilling down all the way through the centre of the bolt. This is much easier to do if you have not surface hardened the broken stud by heating it with a torch.

After the stud is drilled you can apply all the heat you want.

Is this motor in Barrie?
 
I've had mixed luck with these type of extractors:

irwin-bolt-outs.jpg


If it works it's great, if not it sucks cause you have to move onto something like an ez-out. I've had bad luck with ez-outs... nothing worse than snapping off an ez-out inside your bolt... definitely not easy-out any longer!!!
 
Torren said:
If you have not done so already, DO NOT apply heat to the broken stud yet.


Most of the time removing a broken stud involves drilling down all the way through the centre of the bolt. This is much easier to do if you have not surface hardened the broken stud by heating it with a torch.

After the stud is drilled you can apply all the heat you want.

Is this motor in Barrie?
Click to expand...

Why would you heat the bolt up? the material around should be heated up so it might have a chance to expand.

OP needs to post a picture of what is left. And if the block is aluminium or ferrous.

A propane torch isn't going to hardened a bolt
 
Lots of good advice here.
I'll give my cents. Recently had to do this twice.
Best method for me was to drill a small whole right through the middle of the bolt (I had to be careful as my pin bolt was seated on the inside so knowing the depth was critical. For exhaust bolt might not be an issue).
After drilled it takes pressure off the bolt and the Canadian Tire extractor bit made easy work of removing (just use in a drill in reverse on a low speed setting).

http://reviews.canadiantire.ca/9045...ximum-grab-it-4-piece-set-reviews/reviews.htm
 
Torren said:
If you have not done so already, DO NOT apply heat to the broken stud yet.


Most of the time removing a broken stud involves drilling down all the way through the centre of the bolt. This is much easier to do if you have not surface hardened the broken stud by heating it with a torch.

After the stud is drilled you can apply all the heat you want.

Is this motor in Barrie?
Click to expand...

Yes, motor is in Barrie.

It looks like it is the original bolt from '89 so I would think that it would be as hard as it could be from all the heat cycles it has been through in it's life time.

I am planning to try and remove this weekend. I forgot to take a photo last night but I have a couple mm sticking out and am hoping to remove via flat head impact or vise grips.
I'm still nervous about an easy out since I have heard of them breaking like Xhumeka mentioned and then having to drill out both. I have never had to deal with this and do not want to mess the head up at all. If I can't remove easily I may slap everything together and ride to my buddies shop in Toronto and let him task it.

I appreciate everyone's response and input on this, makes me a bit more comfortable to know I'm going about it the same way most others would.

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk
 
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I swear by a reverse (LH drill) extractor set, works all the time, every time. Got it from Cdn Tire.
 
frekeyguy said:
Why would you heat the bolt up? the material around should be heated up so it might have a chance to expand.

OP needs to post a picture of what is left. And if the block is aluminium or ferrous.

A propane torch isn't going to hardened a bolt
Click to expand...

A propane torch wouldn't be much of use to start with. It does not put out enough heat in a concentrated area to be useful.

I was thinking more along the lines of real torch, or at least a MAPP torch, any level of heat will still surface harden a bolt to a degree, and heat is always a final step is the point. Unless you like to sharpen drill bits.


OP since your motor is in Barrie, I have a small 110v welder I can bring home from the shop to weld a nut your broken stud and spin it right out.
 
Torren said:
OP since your motor is in Barrie, I have a small 110v welder I can bring home from the shop to weld a nut your broken stud and spin it right out.
Click to expand...

This is a generous offer, and the most likely method for success - assuming the stud has a small diameter (less than 10mm). What youre likely battling is bi-metallic corrosion, common where steel hardware is threaded into aluminum.

Drilling into the stud to insert an extractor is only inviting disaster (broken extractor - in the broken stud).

I have used Loctite freeze and release successfully, but it was an iron block with a ferrous stud.
 
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