Some minor assistance required - soldering item | GTAMotorcycle.com

Some minor assistance required - soldering item

-D-

-D-

Banned
I know there are a lot of talented people here.
I would appreciate if someone can help me fix my GPS (Garmin Nuvi 1350)

The USB port is loose. I have to rock the cable and hold it in a certain spot to connect or charge it.
Can someone open it and solder back the connection.

Please let me know.
Thx
 
Last edited:
-D- said:
I know there are a lot of talented people here.
I would appreciate if someone can help me fix my GPS (Garmin Nuvi).

The USB port is loose. I have to rock the cable and hold it in a certain spot to connect or charge it.
Can someone open it and solder back the connection.

Please let me know.
Thx
Click to expand...

Depending on the way the device is built is may require more than just soldering.

On some devices I've seen the solder joints and pads on the PCB take all the stresses of the cable -- tugging, plugging/unplugging, vibration etc -- and those forces, over time, can pull the pads right off the PCB. When the traces snap you're sort of screwed. It may be possible to epoxy the body of the connector to the PCB and run 30AWG "flywires" from the D+ and D- pins to available connection points on the board.

What model number Nuvi is it?
 
Blackfin said:
Depending on the way the device is built is may require more than just soldering.

On some devices I've seen the solder joints and pads on the PCB take all the stresses of the cable -- tugging, plugging/unplugging, vibration etc -- and those forces, over time, can pull the pads right off the PCB. When the traces snap you're sort of screwed. It may be possible to epoxy the body of the connector to the PCB and run 30AWG "flywires" from the D+ and D- pins to available connection points on the board.

What model number Nuvi is it?
Click to expand...

+1. Every time I've seen a USB port go bad, it's either torn the traces off the board (note to cheap *** designers, soldering to traces in not sufficient support for a usb plug) or things have gone wrong inside the plug itself (centre web breaks or contacts bend). After a series of failed Nuvi's my wife gave up on them and just uses Waze now. It's much better if you have data available.
 
Not to steal @-D- 's thunder, but would what guys described also apply to the charging port of a tablet? Was going to try and fix it this week. It fell with the charger attached, and now it is dislodged and not charging.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy far, far away using Tapatalk
 
Joe Bass said:
Not to steal @-D- 's thunder, but would what guys described also apply to the charging port of a tablet? Was going to try and fix it this week. It fell with the charger attached, and now it is dislodged and not charging.
Click to expand...

This is very likely the same problem: the PCB (likely a flexi) has had its pads ripped away. The flexi/PCB may also have suffered more damage (e.g. torn or delaminated).

I've seen two tablets lately that suffered this problem. One could be "fixed" with flywires and epoxy. The other was beyond repair.
 
Blackfin said:
This is very likely the same problem: the PCB (likely a flexi) has had its pads ripped away. The flexi/PCB may also have suffered more damage (e.g. torn or delaminated).

I've seen two tablets lately that suffered this problem. One could be "fixed" with flywires and epoxy. The other was beyond repair.
Click to expand...
Could the charging problem be remedied by using one of those charging pads? (Not familiar with them).
And if I post a picture of the internal damage (I have it apart) would someone be able to assess? Or would this need to be looked at in person?

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy far, far away using Tapatalk
 
I have a GPS power cord with the same issue. It's not worth the hassle to try and repair it.
 
Joe Bass said:
Could the charging problem be remedied by using one of those charging pads? (Not familiar with them).
Click to expand...

If the device is wireless-charge compatible (e.g. "Qi" compatible) it should work unless the USB damage has resulted in short-circuits at the damage site.

And if I post a picture of the internal damage (I have it apart) would someone be able to assess? Or would this need to be looked at in person?
Click to expand...

Try posting some detailed pics when you can. use a good camera on macro-mode if possible :)
 
GreyGhost said:
+1. Every time I've seen a USB port go bad, it's either torn the traces off the board (note to cheap *** designers, soldering to traces in not sufficient support for a usb plug) or things have gone wrong inside the plug itself (centre web breaks or contacts bend). After a series of failed Nuvi's my wife gave up on them and just uses Waze now. It's much better if you have data available.
Click to expand...
I use sygic, no need for data.
 
Blackfin said:
This is very likely the same problem: the PCB (likely a flexi) has had its pads ripped away. The flexi/PCB may also have suffered more damage (e.g. torn or delaminated).

I've seen two tablets lately that suffered this problem. One could be "fixed" with flywires and epoxy. The other was beyond repair.
Click to expand...


I updated the post with the model.
I don't think it is that severe for me. It will work once you move the cable a certain way so it feels like the port solders are weak and came apart.
 
-D- said:
I updated the post with the model.
I don't think it is that severe for me. It will work once you move the cable a certain way so it feels like the port solders are weak and came apart.
Click to expand...
Doesn't look like your post edit worked.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy far, far away using Tapatalk
 
I will p/m you the email for a guy I found on kijiji that soldered a new backlight coil on my iphone 4s. Not an easy task. I talked to him about taking care of other stuff and he is willing to work on any electronics. If anyone else needs his email let me know.
 
I've done this sort of stuff before but always worry about marring the finish on some enclosures and/or breaking plastic tabs and retaining trim pieces during the disassembly process. I don't care about it for my stuff but if I'm fixing someone else's stuff it's different; you want to return it as if it had never been touched ('cept that it works :).
 
Blackfin said:
I've done this sort of stuff before but always worry about marring the finish on some enclosures and/or breaking plastic tabs and retaining trim pieces during the disassembly process. I don't care about it for my stuff but if I'm fixing someone else's stuff it's different; you want to return it as if it had never been touched ('cept that it works :).
Click to expand...
I usually just tell them I may not be able to fix it, might break it more, or might scratch something. If they tell me to go ahead anyway then it's their own fault, lol. Usually they're just happy if it works after. Of course I'm not charging them for it.

Don't tell someone you can fix something perfectly for a price and then give it back looking like ****. Unrelated example but I had a shop do that with my 944 rear window. Would've gladly paid them or someone else double what they charged me to have it done properly.
 
Don't know if this is any help, but here are some pics:
5917d1503fa3d9103ab104e0241b7903.jpg
cd459762e5e8dc4fb35bae6c3f5c6900.jpg


Sent from a Samsung Galaxy far, far away using Tapatalk
 
@-D-, my gps in the car had a similar issue. Because I usually had it plugged in anyway, I just hot glued the charger in. Problem solved.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy far, far away using Tapatalk
 
It looks like a separate piece. That's good, search the Internet's for the replacement part. For a Samsung phone, that piece is <$15. Just detach the ribbon cable from the far end and replace the whole thing(if you can find the part).
 
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