2010 Ninja 250R - Idle / throttle question | GTAMotorcycle.com

2010 Ninja 250R - Idle / throttle question

M

misterangelo

Member
Forum Sponsor
Hi guys,

I recently just bought a 2010 ninja 250R from a woman who hasn't used this in a few years. I'm going to explain this the best as I can, please forgive me since I am a first time bike owner. Now when the bike is warm and in idle, it's at 1400 rpm. When I give it throttle, sometimes the throttle is weak and not responsive and sometimes its responsive, if that makes any sense. Like sometime when I move the throttle a bit, it's not enough to rev the engine so I have to turn my wrist more. Also when I do give it a quick rev and let go off the throttle, The rpms sometimes kinda creep up by itself and it doesn't go back to 1400 rpm instantly. Another thing is that I was in neutral and just staring at the rpms the rpms creeped up to like 2-3k ish and was hovering there and then I turned off the bike. And when I turned off the bike it sounded like the fan was still running, is this normal?

Also, how do I know if I have a good amount of oil and brake fluid? Any suggestions on what's happening or is this normal? Also, I'm planning on doing a full tune up such as oil change, brake fluid and spark plugs.

I thank everyone in advanced for any comments/advice/help etc...

Regards,
 
Ill try to answer the best I can with my 2 months experience on my ninja 250r 2009.

I notice a non responsive throttle for the first 1-2km of my ride. I believe that is due to the engine still being cold. When I first got my bike I stalled my bike a few times cause the throttle wasnt giving it gas. (Leaving my parking garage on a hill made it tougher)

After cleaning my air filter I notice the throttle started responding faster after startups.

The fan running after you turn it off is perfectly normal. My bike's fan runs for a couple minutes after long rides especially on a hot day.

There should be an oil glass on the right side of your bike. Oil level should be about mid glass when bike is fully straight.

Break fluid, spark plugs and other stuff I haven't touched so cant really comment.
 
Is this happening with the choke on or do you have the choke off?

As to oil and brake fluid you need to get an owners manual available online via google search and learn how to check
 
Ridin2TheGym said:
Ill try to answer the best I can with my 2 months experience on my ninja 250r 2009.

I notice a non responsive throttle for the first 1-2km of my ride. I believe that is due to the engine still being cold. When I first got my bike I stalled my bike a few times cause the throttle wasnt giving it gas. (Leaving my parking garage on a hill made it tougher)

After cleaning my air filter I notice the throttle started responding faster after startups.

The fan running after you turn it off is perfectly normal. My bike's fan runs for a couple minutes after long rides especially on a hot day.

There should be an oil glass on the right side of your bike. Oil level should be about mid glass when bike is fully straight.

Break fluid, spark plugs and other stuff I haven't touched so cant really comment.
Click to expand...


Thanks man. Hopefully when I change the filter and do an oil change the throttle will be more responsive.
 
You likely need to clean and synchronize the carbs. Dirty, unsynched carbs will cause erratic idle, and "hanging idle" (when you rev the bike it takes a bit to drop back down).
If these aren't things you can do, I'd PM "Frekeyguy" on here, he does fantastic work and his rates are very reasonable.
 
+1 on this if the bike has been sitting, then carbs need inspection and cleaning. Have met frekeguy, but not needed his services, and but would highly recommend him.

Iceman said:
You likely need to clean and synchronize the carbs. Dirty, unsynched carbs will cause erratic idle, and "hanging idle" (when you rev the bike it takes a bit to drop back down).
If these aren't things you can do, I'd PM "Frekeyguy" on here, he does fantastic work and his rates are very reasonable.
Click to expand...
 
Agree on the carbs clean them every 10k km on that bike. Also try to use non ethanol gas in that bike. I had one a 2010 and they are all the same. There is also an idle adjustment knob on left hand side of bike. Try adjusting your idle.
 
+1 on cleaning the carbs. If the bike hadn't been used for "a few years" and was stored with gas containing ethanol it's likely the carb internals are fouled with crusty residue.
 
Sounds like you might have a leak at the intake boots. With the bike running, spray some WD40 around the intake boot area and see what happens. If the high idle settles, you have your answer.

A cleaning might be in order as it sounds like your pilots might be a bit plugged up.
 
Ya I used to run seafoam once in awhile, 91 octane shell no ethanol, clean air filter often and adjust idle. Bike was a lot happier that way. Ethanol gums up the carbs pretty good. Plus if the bike was sitting with 87 ethanol gas and no stabilizier, you probably have some water sitting around in there.
 
These are normal symptoms of a bike that's been sitting or not taken good care of. Always make sure your bike is good and warm before you go riding, test your throttle to make sure the response is good. The easiest thing to start with is checking your idle adjustment screw. If your bike idles too low you are at risk of stalling. You may not need Seafoam but look into it, regular riding and good gas may be enough to fix your issues.

If the bike has been inactive but is still pretty new, you shouldn't worry about brakes or spark plugs. You could even wait until the end of the season to do your oil change, just check your oil level.
 
jukon said:
These are normal symptoms of a bike that's been sitting or not taken good care of. Always make sure your bike is good and warm before you go riding, test your throttle to make sure the response is good. The easiest thing to start with is checking your idle adjustment screw. If your bike idles too low you are at risk of stalling. You may not need Seafoam but look into it, regular riding and good gas may be enough to fix your issues.

If the bike has been inactive but is still pretty new, you shouldn't worry about brakes or spark plugs. You could even wait until the end of the season to do your oil change, just check your oil level.
Click to expand...


Thanks everyone again for the responses, I'm taking everything into consideration.

And jukon. This bike is actually pretty new but was inactive. Currently has 460KM. I think the bike is low on oil. What should the glass gauge be showing with the bike standing perfectly straight? And any recommendation on what oil to use for this bike?


Thanks
 
Last edited:
The sight glass should have two lines. The oil should be in between those 2 lines. As for oil check the owners manual. When I had mine I ran 10w40 regular Dino oil or semi-synthetic oil
 
dieselxx said:
The sight glass should have two lines. The oil should be in between those 2 lines. As for oil check the owners manual. When I had mine I ran 10w40 regular Dino oil or semi-synthetic oil
Click to expand...
What's the difference between dino/semi-synthetic/synthetic oil for a motorcycle? Also... would this oil be ok to use?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/a...c-diesel-motor-oil-0287935p.html#.VeSdlvlVhBc

I've come across where many people say that they use this.

Thanks,

Angelo
 
A lot of guys run the shell rotella. Personally I've never tried it. I may be paranoid but I refuse to use a diesel oil in my motorbike. I'm sure it's fine though as it meets JASO spec for wet clutches. Motul products or Mobil 1 for me. Dino oil is regular oil, nothing fancy, that's what the 250 calls for.
 
Last edited:
dieselxx said:
A lot of guys run the shell rotella. Personally I've never tried it. I may be paranoid but I refuse to use a diesel oil in my motorbike. I'm sure it's fine though as it meets JASO spec for wet clutches. Motul products or Mobil 1 for me. Dino oil is regular oil, nothing fancy, that's what the 250 calls for.
Click to expand...

I use Rotella T6 in my 2011 STi because as a diesel oil it's better able to handle shear. A lot of Subaru guys swear by the stuff to help protect against spun bearings in the EJ engines. It's an excellent oil. It trades energy saving ratings for mechanical protection and higher zinc levels and I'm okay with that.

I tried it in my bike and it was fine but for whatever reason switched back to Motul 7100. Maybe I just like the fancy red colour in the sight glass :)
 
Blackfin said:
I use Rotella T6 in my 2011 STi because as a diesel oil it's better able to handle shear. A lot of Subaru guys swear by the stuff to help protect against spun bearings in the EJ engines. It's an excellent oil. It trades energy saving ratings for mechanical protection and higher zinc levels and I'm okay with that.

I tried it in my bike and it was fine but for whatever reason switched back to Motul 7100. Maybe I just like the fancy red colour in the sight glass :)
Click to expand...

I'm aware of the subie guys running this oil. Some focus ST guys running it too, but not me.
Forum Sponsor
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom