Never used a Router. Can I ? Woodworking, not networking, sorry techies | GTAMotorcycle.com

Never used a Router. Can I ? Woodworking, not networking, sorry techies

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hdsomeday

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So...... I came across a grandfather clock case in pieces that I want to put together. Problem is, after laying out all the parts it looks like I only have the top and bottom, no middle (or waist). I am going to make a simple waist that is basically 40" high, 15" wide and 10" deep. I have purchased some 1x2 and 1x4 red oak. I want to use a router to be able to fit glass panels and a back panel in it. I have never used a router before. Do I need a table ? I bought what I think is a decent router (Hitachi M12VC 2-1/4-Horsepower Variable-Speed Fixed Base Router...$70!!!). I have a lot of scrap pieces to practise on but I need to know if this is something I can tackle or would I be better off to just get someone that has the know how to do it.

I'm in no hurry. Any advice is appreciated.
 
If you have a bench that you can clamp the boards to so the edge is flush with the table...just use a guide board on top to run the router along. No table needed ;)
 
Don't forget about the dust created. Probably an activity more suited for the garage then the basement.
 
Haven't done it myself , but a neighbour loves woodworking. He was giving me some tips and said it's all very straight forward. The only thing that gave him trouble was tapering the ends of the groove. Ie: he gradually lifted the router out of the groove at the ends for effect.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy far, far away using Tapatalk
 
Damnit! I was hoping this was an IOS question
 
Just practice on some scrap. You want tight clean lines to fit glass into, nothing fancy. Create some guide posts and c-clamp them on. Wear eye protection. I should also mention that variable speed routers can be a pain to set just right. Follow the manual.
Buy good sharp bits and keep them sharp!
 
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FWIW I use my router to cut aluminum.

Make a wooden pattern and use a bit with a roller guide to make sheet aluminum pieces. Far neater than hacking away with shears.

I've also used round over bits to radius an edge on heavier stock.
 
I am a woodworker and master cabinet maker. The machine you have bought is no toy and needs much practice to master and use safely. Routers are incredibly useful and handy, but, for the right applications. If you have any direct questions P.M. me and we can either set up a visit or at least a phone call. I'm glad to help in any way.
 
If you have access to a table saw, I find it easier to use that to create dados. It saves you from having to clamp up a long straight fence.

The router is more stable if you lay it on the face of the board, but then you are dealing with a tiny/slow cutting/fragile cutter. If you run the router along the edge of the board with a slotting cutter you are a braver soul than I. In a router table with a slotting cutter it works, but then you are basically a table saw on its side with less stability.

If you really want to use your router on this project, cutting the dado or rabbet for the case back will be easier than the cut for the glass (you are dealing with a groove over 1/4" width for the wood vs one 1/8" width or less for the glass).

EDIT:

Most glass these days is installed with a rabbet and adhesive or a stop block. This allows the glass to be replaced without substantial door surgery if it breaks. Post a sketch of your plan too, maybe people can give you ideas on what/what not to do. It's always cheaper/easier to learn from the mistakes of those that came before you.
 
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CB Rider and Greyghost make good points. You can see countless "How-to's" on Youtube but many are by "Routerheads" that are out to prove that you can use a router to do anything, even if other tools often do a better easier job.
 
I do a bit of this, on big parts, take router to parts, small parts use a table, use a table especially if you are new. The table does not need to be complicated, I've made them in the field with a pc of plywood and two C clamps.
Routers have a directional cut, they cut clean in a push cut and will skip and chew things up in a climb cut. Figure out which way to move the parts.
Modern bits are designed to cut in one pass, however red oak your chosen wood has a distinct open grain, make a cut at about 90%, then a final clean up pass to final dimention.
If you need to put a router cut on a really small piece, make the router cut on a bigger piece then saw that pc to size.
if you make, get a table paint two large red lines on the table about 4" on each side of the bit and your fingers never go into that zone.
 
Thanks all. As mentioned, the youtubes haven't been of much comfort to me. I need to set up a work area in the garage. I was thinking of the router table mostly to be able to attach a vacuum to it keep the dust some what manageable. CB Rider, thanks, I will take you up on that offer.

I will post a sketch to give you all a better idea of what Im doing, or attempting.
 
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