Help a noob bleed brakes, please | GTAMotorcycle.com

Help a noob bleed brakes, please

Motorcycle Mike

Motorcycle Mike

Well-known member
Hey guys,

So despite how long I've been riding and how many bikes I've had, I never actually replaced brake fluid before.

Both my bikes are overdue for new fluid, so I gave it a go. Here are the steps I took -- tell me where I went wrong and what I need to do to fix it.

1) I want to replace my bleeders with speed bleeders, so first I left the master cylinder cap on, loosened the stock bleeder and pumped a bit with a hose on it to collect the fluid.

2) I then removed the MC cap, pumped a little more (still lots of fluid in there). This is where I think I made a catastrophic mistake -- I decided to remove the stock bleeder while the MC cap was off, and of course a lot of fluid came out. I don't believe the MC ever emptied, but I could be wrong.

3) I put the speed bleeder in, tightened it, then backed if off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, filled the MC, and pumped.

Now the problem -- pressure isn't building. I keep pumping and pumping -- either with the bleeder closed or open 1/4 a turn -- nothing. The fluid level doesn't change, but pressure never builds.


I've watched the youtube videos, I've searched the forums... but it doesn't seem to work. What can I do now to fix this?

Also, for when I get around to changing the bleeder on the rear brakes and the Vstrom, what is the correct procedure for changing this?

Thanks in advance.
 
Get a vacuum pump at Princess Auto and suck everything out
 
first off, brake fluid destroys paint,plastic, and finish.

keep an eye on the mc fluid level- dont let it go to bottom or you'll have to start over-so fill periodically.

bleeder closed, open bleeder, push/pull brake lever all the way down, hold brake down while closing bleeder. let brake lever up. repeat.

never release the brake with bleeder open, you'll suck in more air. make sure bleeder is always closed when you release the brake.

likewise, always make sure bleeder is closed if you pump the brakes. do not pump with bleeder open, only pump up lever with bleeder closed.

at first you will feel little or no pressure, but continue bleeding, eventually you will start to feel pressure.

CARDINAL RULE: NEVER RELEASE THE BRAKE LEVER WITH BLEEDER OPEN-ONLY CLOSED. LIKEWISE, ONLY PUMP UP LEVER WHEN BLEEDER IS CLOSED.



keep repeating w/o letting mc go dry of brake fluid.

vacuum pump is nice, but not necessary.
 
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I went through something similar with my SV. Bought a vac pump and a bleeding kit and THAT.......didn't help. I threw them out and took it to a shop, paid $40 or whatever and got them to bleed my brakes. I can never get all the air out myself and end up angry and frustrated!! Stupid things.
 
old skool way and cheap as well

all you need is a jar, some tubing, brake fluid, a wrench to open the bleed valve, and if you cannot reach everything on your own, an assistant to either pump and hold the brake lever, and you to open and close the brake bleeder valve

100_1840.jpg
 
Do any of you guys use speed bleeders http://speedbleeder.com/?

The reason why I am putting them on is that they are supposed to eliminate the need for constantly tightening/loosening the bleeder as they have a one-way valve that can allow air to push out but not come in. So I have the speed bleeder in, but pumping builds no resistance.

I'll try the vacuum pump method.
 
Motorcycle Mike said:
Do any of you guys use speed bleeders http://speedbleeder.com/?

The reason why I am putting them on is that they are supposed to eliminate the need for constantly tightening/loosening the bleeder as they have a one-way valve that can allow air to push out but not come in. So I have the speed bleeder in, but pumping builds no resistance.

I'll try the vacuum pump method.
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by the time you got back with your vacuum pump the job could be finished. in 35 years, and gallons of brake fluid, i've never had to use a vacuum pump. good mechanics learn perserverance early on, keep trying! follow the cardinal rule above, and a friend working the bleeder screw really helps.

i've never used a speed bleeder, some special valve but it sounds like ...wtf. use the regular bleeder, when open there is zero resistance. and often the brake fluid coming out is mixed with air - regular bleeders and when you open use a good 3/4 turn to open it up with no constrictions. speed bleeders and vacuum pumps? heck, its a 10 minute job without them?! speed bleeder: the valve itself is a constriction, not good when you have little to no pressure.
 
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If you want to swing by, I'd be more than happy to show you how to bleed them. Just bring over some coffee.
 
frekeyguy said:
If you want to swing by, I'd be more than happy to show you how to bleed them. Just bring over some coffee.
Click to expand...

I might just take you up on that, but not today -- not enough time.

Question, when I am bleeding the brakes, should fluid be coming out of the bleed valve? Because everything I read says keep a hose attached to a drain container, which I did, but nothing comes out. I tried boyoboy's method and I did see more air bubbles rising in the MC, but no fluid comes out the bleeder and no pressure builds.
 
Motorcycle Mike said:
I might just take you up on that, but not today -- not enough time.

Question, when I am bleeding the brakes, should fluid be coming out of the bleed valve? Because everything I read says keep a hose attached to a drain container, which I did, but nothing comes out. I tried boyoboy's method and I did see more air bubbles rising in the MC, but no fluid comes out the bleeder and no pressure builds.
Click to expand...

PM me when you want to pop by. Its easier to explain in person.
 
you might not feel any pressure because the air in the system is compressing, rather than moving the fluid. keep repeating even if you feel no pressure, eventually the pressure will compress the air enough so that fluid starts to move. this is why it is important (especially at beginning) to open the bleeder fully so that there is no constriction to slow the movement of fluid. keep trying! a vacuum pump works very well in this situation.

honestly, the best thing to do is take up freaky's offer. there are little tricks to remove stubborn air bubbles, or even bleeding the mc by itself first (at banjo bolt). its really simple-once someone shows you. good luck, and yeh, i've always wanted to get a vacuum pump, but by the time i went to the store and back...

and these are your brakes, having freakey going through everything and confirming your brakes are good to go is priceless.
 
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Don't forget to gently tap the caliper & master cylinder with a rubber mallet. It will dislodge any air bubble
 
Air is going to rise. You could suspend the caliper above the master cylinder to allow the air to rise. Then you're not trying to force air down the lines.
 
RockerGuy said:
Don't forget to gently tap the caliper & master cylinder with a rubber mallet. It will dislodge any air bubble
Click to expand...

better to use the blunt handle end of a screwdriver, or a plastic mallet, rather than a rubber mallet (better chance a sharp tap will dislodge bubbles). and the place where most air bubbles get lodged is around the junction where the two brake lines merge into one (if its dual disc set-up). but right now mike needs to get the large volume of air out of the system first.
 
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Woohoo! Success!

I went out again, left the bleeder closed and just pumped and pumped the brake. I found snapping the lever rather than letting out slowly helped to jar more of the bubbles free. Easily 20 or 30 minutes later I finally noticed the bubbles subsiding and pressure building.

Then I backed off the bleeder valve, pulled in the lever and fluid came spitting out... so I tightened the valve as boyoboy said and let out the lever. Finally getting somewhere. I decided to test the marketing of the speed bleeder, so I loosened the bleeder 1/4 turn and pumped the brake... perfect... fluid comes out, air does not go back in. So I topped up the reservoir once again, fed a bit of fluid through, tightened the bleed screw, but on the MC cover, and all is well.

I was finally having good luck, so I went and did the rear caliper too -- and here are the instructions if anyone else needs to bleed their lines and wants to switch to speed bleeders at the same time.

1) Clean all of the brake components that are going to be exposed.
2) Take out the old bleeder screw and put in the speed bleeder.
3) Open the MC cover and ensure there is enough fluid.
4) Back off the speed bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.
5) Put on a drain line to the speed bleeder.
6) Pump the old fluid out using the brake lever/pedal making sure to fill up the MC as you go.
7) When the new clearer fluid is what is coming out your drain hose, tighten the speed bleeder.
8) Ensure your MC is full enough, replace MC cap.
9) Pump the brakes to build pressure, give them a test by pushing the bike and applying them.

The rear brake proved to be so simple... maybe 15 or 20 minutes total to flush the fluid and bleed the brakes. The only issue I had was the clear hose I had was slightly too big and kept falling off meaning I needed three hands to do things.

Anyway, thanks for the tips given... now just 3 more calipers to go (on the Vstrom).
 
and thanks freakeyguy for the offer ;)
 
ZX600 said:
and thanks freakeyguy for the offer ;)
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Thanked him privately. And will still buy him that coffee, just for making the offer.
 
I've made so many offers here & people don't even respond. Maybe they don't take me seriously. That's alright because I have better things to do with my time than having stranger over
 
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