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Bulb/ wiring

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Do you have a multimeter? If not, you need one. Pick a cheapie up at Princess Auto. Visual inspections of electrical connections are not reliable. Always use a multimeter to check a long length of wire, a connection (soldered or crimp), etc.
 
Roadghost said:
#4449, that's the two-prong 4 1/2" bulb right? With two screws for the connectors? They have stacks of them at Princess Auto. On a single headlight bike you should have a three prong (daytime running light, high beam and ground). What kind of setup are you running? Two headlights?
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Can't find them here at the Mississauga location. Asked a guy, said the computer doesn't even list them.
 
TorontoBoy said:
Do you have a multimeter? If not, you need one. Pick a cheapie up at Princess Auto. Visual inspections of electrical connections are not reliable. Always use a multimeter to check a long length of wire, a connection (soldered or crimp), etc.
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Will one of those light up circuit testers suffice? I have one of those.
 
Joe Bass said:
Can't find them here at the Mississauga location. Asked a guy, said the computer doesn't even list them.
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They don't list a Wagner 4449, however they carry 12v 30w sealed beam in a 4 1/2" size, $9.99. The wagner and lights like it are very popular for tractors lol. This is why I recommended you bring the old one for comparison. :D
 
Iceman said:
They don't list a Wagner 4449, however they carry 12v 30w sealed beam in a 4 1/2" size, $9.99. The wagner and lights like it are very popular for tractors lol. This is why I recommended you bring the old one for comparison. :D
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Yup. They have a whole bin full of them. Same bulb with no part#.
 
Bought a cheap multimeter
 
First off, thanks to everyone for your help so far.
I finally got my lazy @$$ out to try and find the issue. Decided to start at the turn signal / running light, as the signal worked, but not the running light. Took out the bulb, and it's a dual filament, and one was blown. Replaced the bulb, now the lights work.
Is this normal? Would the filament being blown stop the other light from working? ( this bike was all wired by previous owner). Or is it just a coincidence, and I should keep looking?
 
Joe Bass said:
... Took out the bulb, and it's a dual filament, and one was blown. Replaced the bulb, now the lights work.
Is this normal? Would the filament being blown stop the other light from working? ( this bike was all wired by previous owner). Or is it just a coincidence, and I should keep looking?
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This does not sound right, but I'm not sure. If one filament is blown the other light shoulsd still work. Bike designers are smarter than this.

For Christmas tree lights if one bulb is blown the circuit does not light. This is because the bulbs are wired in series, which saves in wiring cost but reduces reliability. This should not happen on your bike. Your lights should be wired in parallel, so that if one dies it does not affect the other. If I'm incorrect, someone please correct me.

You need to find the electrical schematic for your bike and go through each wire to ensure your wiring is just like the schematic. If the PO messed up the wiring you'll need to repair it back to stock. Otherwise if you do have an electrical issue it'll be much harder to troubleshoot.
 
TorontoBoy said:
You need to find the electrical schematic for your bike and go through each wire to ensure your wiring is just like the schematic. If the PO messed up the wiring you'll need to repair it back to stock.
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I was thinking the same thing, that the po wired it in series. I've never actually looked to see, but I do not believe that the lightbar is oem.
I will investigate when I rewire & replace & relocate my rear signals.
 
Using your multimeter check connectivity from the -ve of the left rear light to the +ve of the right light, and then check connectivity of the +ve of the left light to the -ve of the right light. If either connect, then you have the lights in series. This would also mean that they are getting half the power they should, and therefore need to be rewired.
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