09 R6 stalls on track at the exact same turn | GTAMotorcycle.com

09 R6 stalls on track at the exact same turn

BenA

BenA

Well-known member
09 R6 with full Bazzaz.
SMP Fabi track.
Stalls on or just before turn 3 right turn.
Not a gas issue so it on full tanks.
Cuts ignition but still have electricity power.
Will start the min I stand it back strait.
Happens every time but only if I push it on the strait.
Took apart the bike to make sure all electrical cabling are right.
Was thinking about low oil (which was running on the low side) but found out from Yamaha that the oil sensor will not cut the engine.
Not the tip over sensor (verified).
Also tried to recreate on other turns but no luck.
Also had it laying on the grass to try and stimulate but couldn't recreate.
Also verified the quick shifter is not loose and doesn't see an attempt to shift when I tested it on the grass.

Anyone had a similar problem?
Keep the n me JD it will always happens after the long strait and at or b fore the same right turn.

Any help will be greatly appreciated,,,
 
I am a little confused how it cannot be a gas issue due to a full tank? Can you explain? Could it be venting of the tank? Not well versed in this just asking exploratory questions.
Side stand cutoff disabled?
 
I forgot to mention that it happened to me for the first time on my last day in Dec at JGP, and over there i did run low on the gas. so when i got to SMP i made sure to run with a full tank of gas to eliminate that.
I'm also thinking it has to do with either gas or intake of air, as the long strait is the only common item. In JGP in also happened 2 turns after their back strait. but i can't notice anything obvious. the bike is completely naked now and i can't see anything that would look obvious. i looked at the 2 breather hoses coming out of the tank, 1 is for overflow and the other is air intake, they looked fine but i'm going to try and get them better situated for Sun.
Side stand is disabled.
 
Does it do it every single time before that turn?
 
Yep, as long as i push it on the strait, it would do it on 3 or just before 3.
If it didn't it was only on the first 2 laps before i start pushing it.
 
Aint going to be that easy.
Let me run this by you all, if the gas tank airflow intake hose is pressed on and has a hard time breathing, would can i cause this to happen after open throttle wide open on the strait for a long time?
 
Why not first figure out if it is electrical or not? if you put an inductive device (such as a small cheap tachometer) on the bike secondary side, then take it for a lap, if you are losing ignition, the tach will tell you. If you still have ignition, then its a fuel issue (because if it was mechanical, it would probably stay broken!) If the tank breather pipe is pinched, and not flowing easily, it could cause the issue. Maybe run the bike with a fuel pressure gauge attached. The pressure will drop substantially if there is a pump issue.
 
valid points, but it can't be electrical. as the bike still has it's dash on when this takes place. and if it was electrical, i would see it at other sharp right turns, like the one before the back strait.
i think it leads to the breather pipe, but i hate to take it down to SMP this weekend and see the same problem again.
 
BenA said:
valid points, but it can't be electrical. as the bike still has it's dash on when this takes place. and if it was electrical, i would see it at other sharp right turns, like the one before the back strait.
i think it leads to the breather pipe, but i hate to take it down to SMP this weekend and see the same problem again.
Click to expand...

take the duc out for a spin!
 
I had a bike that used to cut out when I passed by the cemetary on the way to work. Maybe there is someone buried at that turn.... *shifty eyes*
 
Seems similar to the paper towel in the gas tank conundrum. Sucks fuel, eventually sucks in towel, and gas supply cut.

I know not helpful but buddy of mine had crap in his fuel tank and drove him nuts for a week with the gas cutting off.
 
I'll clean the tank.
Clean the oil sensor.
Change oil and filter.
Remove the breathing tube and leave it open.
And hope for the best. If i still see the problem, i'll have to take off the bazaaz.
 
Where do ya live? I have a spare ECU you can try, at least rule that out. Does it show a check engine light when it cuts out? Have you checked the codes (D60, D61, D62, D63) and run through all the diagnostic tests from diag mode on the dash?

The service manual if you don't have it already, lots of great troubleshooting stuff: http://ecuflashking.com/r6/manuals/2008-2011 Yamaha R6/

The reason I suggest swapping the ECU is I had a friend that connected his battery backwards when he took it out of storage. He replaced the main fuse that blew but every time he leaned it and went to full throttle it would cut out, threw a check engine light for the TPS sensor. After replacing that, throttle bodies, etc. it turned out only the ECU was damaged.
 
Is this a track only bike? Any cited related issues to this type of bike and the symptom you are experiencing on any forums Google, etc.
 
Thank you very much for the offer.
I live in Maple, ON but will be driving to SMP on Sat night.
 
BenA said:
Thank you very much for the offer.
I live in Maple, ON but will be driving to SMP on Sat night.
Click to expand...
I'm in Whitby and would be willing to meet you at the 401 and brock street whitby (not brock road pickering) Sat night so you could grab the ECU on your way to SMP. Would super suck to go all that way and have cut out problems! Is your bike canadian or USA (red blinkie light in the tach = canadian). I can disable the TOS (tip over sensor) on the ECU I give you just to rule that out as well. Just make sure if you crash the bike you crawl over to it quick and hit the kill switch ;)

Try and get into DIAG mode to check for errors so if it's not important I can delete it from the ECU so it won't cause you problems. Set the kill switch to stop, hold down the select and reset buttons and turn the key to on. Keep holding the buttons until you see DIAG on the dash, then let go of the buttons. Hold them back down again until you see D01 appear where your coolant temp display usually is then let them go. If you roll the throttle you'll see the D01 number go up and down, that's the primary TPS test. Hit the select or reset button to go up and down through the different tests until you get to D60, write down all the codes that show up in the window, same for D61, D62, D63.

If you hear your fuel pump running constantly in diag mode then turn the key off right away and check to make sure the kill switch is set to stop (not run).

Are you doing Mosport RDT with GPBikes on Monday June 22nd?
 
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