1/4" torque wrench | GTAMotorcycle.com

1/4" torque wrench

I have a Mastercraft Maximum in the same range but 3/8", have never had an issue with the click being hard to detect. Then again I'm not sure if I've ever tried to use it for anything less than 10 ft-lbs
 
I don't mind buying a 3/8 but I like the small physical size of the 1/4. I'll keep an eye out for the 3/8 sale.
 
Just get an inch-pounds wrench if you're worried about the sensitivity. When Crappy Tire has a sale on torque wrenches, it's often the inch-pounds type (3/8 drive).
 
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1/4" max would be 200 in/lbs which is 16.7 ft/lb which is nothing. It would be hard to feel it click.

Fo
 
TwistedKestrel said:
I have a Mastercraft Maximum in the same range but 3/8", have never had an issue with the click being hard to detect. Then again I'm not sure if I've ever tried to use it for anything less than 10 ft-lbs
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I have the same one. Works well. Used it for my last valve adjustment. Worked great. Zero'd it out to put it away. Comes with a certificate of adjustment.

Way better than my crappy Princess Auto torque wrench.

Good enough for backyard mechanic use.
 
frekeyguy said:
1/4" max would be 200 in/lbs which is 16.7 ft/lb which is nothing. It would be hard to feel it click.

Fo
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For comparison I have the Princess Auto 1/2" drive torque wrench, Power Fist brand. It's rated at 20-150ft-lb. This is in sharp contrast to the 17ft-lb rating of the 1/4". As I use it with my 3/8" set I have an adapter. The torque wrench works well and clicks as required. I tested it against a name brand torque wrench, and it's good enough for me. My torque wrench also came with a certificate of calibration.

The PA 3/8" torque wrench is rated at 10-80ft-lbs, so depending on your application you buy one you need.
 
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OP I have the same 1/4" wrench (along with a 3/8" Mastercraft and a 1/2" Snap-on) and they all work equally well. You probably know this, but click-type torque wrenches don't actually "click", the head just gives when you reach the set torque value. You need to go slow, especially when dealing in inch-pounds.
 
TwistedKestrel said:
I have a Mastercraft Maximum in the same range but 3/8", have never had an issue with the click being hard to detect. Then again I'm not sure if I've ever tried to use it for anything less than 10 ft-lbs
Click to expand...

I have a 3/8 and 1/4 and they both work great. I've used upwards of 80 ft-lbs.
 
matthew said:
I am in need of a 1/4" torque wrench to tighten fork bolts and other bolts that require low torque settings.

I currently have this one from Princess Auto
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/1-4-in-dr-click-type-torque-wrench/A-p2922045e


I can barely feel it click and sometimes it doesn't seem like it clicks at all.

What other stores carry a 1/4" wrench? It seems that most places have 3/8 and 1/2


Thanks
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Just take it back to Princess Auto and they will exchange it for a new one... they're really good about this kind of stuff. I did it a few year's ago when my 3/8" on was acting kind of funky.
 
r
matthew said:
I am in need of a 1/4" torque wrench to tighten fork bolts and other bolts that require low torque settings.

I currently have this one from Princess Auto
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/1-4-in-dr-click-type-torque-wrench/A-p2922045e

I can barely feel it click and sometimes it doesn't seem like it clicks at all.

What other stores carry a 1/4" wrench? It seems that most places have 3/8 and 1/2


Thanks
Click to expand...

All critical fasteners on my bikes are marked with paint to detect movement and to help refit them to the proper torque without having to use a torque wrench all the time. That includes my fork clamp bolts. Mark the fasteners that you know are in spec before removing them and just refit to match the markings and you're fine, no torque wrench needed. That also helps if you're on the road and don't happen to have you 3/8's or 1/2 inch drive torque wrench with you and you need to start removing critical fasteners and even if you find a shop, how likely is it that they'll have the torque specs for your bike? Also, there comes a point at which "good and snug" is good enough. I have never used a torque wrench on any oil plug on any vehicle I've ever owned, and never stripped or lost a plug. Also, there's nothing wrong with a good beam wrench if you can read the dial IMO. There's a reason why 1/4", click type torque wrenches are not readily available. Maybe it's because they're superfluous?
 
twinswin said:
r

All critical fasteners on my bikes are marked with paint to detect movement and to help refit them to the proper torque without having to use a torque wrench all the time. That includes my fork clamp bolts. Mark the fasteners that you know are in spec before removing them and just refit to match the markings and you're fine, no torque wrench needed. That also helps if you're on the road and don't happen to have you 3/8's or 1/2 inch drive torque wrench with you and you need to start removing critical fasteners and even if you find a shop, how likely is it that they'll have the torque specs for your bike? Also, there comes a point at which "good and snug" is good enough. I have never used a torque wrench on any oil plug on any vehicle I've ever owned, and never stripped or lost a plug. Also, there's nothing wrong with a good beam wrench if you can read the dial IMO. There's a reason why 1/4", click type torque wrenches are not readily available. Maybe it's because they're superfluous?
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Ever heard of bolt stretch? Those marks become useless other than to detect movement and you trust that the factory TQ'd everything perfectly?

If a shop doesn't have TQ specs your at the wrong shop. Most modern bikes use very similar numbers for common bolts such as triple clamps, clipons, steering head, etc.

I use the mastercraft 3/8 wrench and it can be cumbersome to get into the right spots.
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