Bike wont rev passed 8k... lost power? | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Bike wont rev passed 8k... lost power?

It sounds exactly what 1sicCivic described. Its starts up fine. Idles normal. When I run it it boggs out at 8k RPM. The bike does sound and feel like its on two cylinders, im not sure about the backfire though.

Its my first time I have taken it in there. I don't know if they actually looked into it into to detail or if its just a shot in the dark.
So if you were to shift every gear at say 7000, the bike would be fine? If everything's OK until 8000 sounds like a fuel or electrical problem.
 
So if you were to shift every gear at say 7000, the bike would be fine? If everything's OK until 8000 sounds like a fuel or electrical problem.

Yeah I can go through all the gears no problem but it doesnt run smooth and it boggs out. it wont do more then 8000. The shop said it wasn't electrical but didnt say anything about being fuel. so its possible.
 
So what was it?


Maybe Frekeguy can elaborate on what exactly was the issue. He did quite a few things to the bike and runs better then it did before!

I am over the top happy with the work and the outcome.
 
My bike is doing the same thing. I have replaced fuel pump and strainer. Can you please tell me what was done to fix this?
 
My bike is doing the same thing. I have replaced fuel pump and strainer. Can you please tell me what was done to fix this?
Looks like he sold the bike a year later.
You might want to start a new thread.
 
My guess is regulator, had a similar issue on a tlr 20 years ago.
 
It would be nice if it was the regulator, its a cheap part but I don't think it is. It seems to be charging fine. I'm definitely not saying your wrong but how could that cause this? I was thinking possibly the ecu. Im open to trying anything.
 
Alternator is easy to meter test, regulator is easy to meter test, coils and wiring hardware all easy to meter test. Get all of those out of the way first and then you know it's likely a fuel delivery problem.

ECU :/ not so easy to meter test, for that it is best to have a second bike that uses the same parts.
 
... how could that cause this? I was thinking possibly the ecu. Im open to trying anything.
Garbage in garbage out, your alternator (if it is conventional) is comprised of 3 copper wire coils that each produce the same electrical charge at different phases. That's where it all starts and if one or more of those alternator coils shorts internally everything down line changes. A smart mechanic starts at the start and works down stream to find a problem.
 
Looks like this thread is on the verge of fading away so thought I'd still put in my $0.02 anyway.

The symptoms all appear to relate to a weak or leaking fuel pump. Some Suzuki's have factory pumps made by Mitsubishi and are known for this.

Had I seen the original post, I would have recommended a fuel pump test be done. Lots of examples on YouTube to follow that process and takes only a few minutes.

I am on my 3rd fuel pump on my GSX1250. I probably only had to replace the pump 'O' rings on the 2nd pump to keep things going but decided to buy a complete kit incl 'O' ring's. Btw, the bike only had 12K on it when the 1st pump locked up.
 
Step back and do a proper diag. I had to trace the other shops steps back and verify their diag...which was incorrect.

Kramming's bike had a issue where the exhaust butterfly was stuck closed (vs it should be stuck open)
 
Step back and do a proper diag. I had to trace the other shops steps back and verify their diag...which was incorrect.

Kramming's bike had a issue where the exhaust butterfly was stuck closed (vs it should be stuck open)
which shop? (dm me)
 

Back
Top Bottom