Same here but I add sawdust for a sealer.
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Hard break in vs Manufacturer recommended
- Thread starter -JERICHO-
- Start date
Same here but I add sawdust for a sealer.
Race engine vs street production build = zero real world comparison
Follow the manual
A shop I worked in many yrs ago built car race engines, they were started and taken to WOT and let drop off off just like they would on the track, if they didn't blow in the shop they went to the track, may run all season, may go three weekends. They had 15mins of running before they were raced, oil change was after about every 60mins of race time. Its not the way to break in any engine IMHO and when 3-6k grenaded (because you dont know what may be salvaged) it was a spendy hobby.
Follow the manual
A shop I worked in many yrs ago built car race engines, they were started and taken to WOT and let drop off off just like they would on the track, if they didn't blow in the shop they went to the track, may run all season, may go three weekends. They had 15mins of running before they were raced, oil change was after about every 60mins of race time. Its not the way to break in any engine IMHO and when 3-6k grenaded (because you dont know what may be salvaged) it was a spendy hobby.
So the majority says follow the manual, which I have been doing already. (as best as I can I think) The evidence in that webpage is to be ignored because its anecdotal. 
There are a few others that are in agreement with the "hard" style. According to the guy on his page he says this is controversial? I can't understand why. Its seems like a simple question.
If the first 20 miles are the most important according to him, than my ride home from the dealership was it. I remember it clearly. I was in mostly 2nd or 3rd. I kept varrying my speed (0-80), partly because of lots of red lights, and partly because of some bends on the way home. I may have gone to 8k rpm once in a few instances. No way it was "hard" though.
I think I am going to dedicate the next warm day we get to spend the entire day breaking in the bike. I'll change the oil and filter after that day of riding to be extra cautious and to see if I can find any flakes..
There are a few others that are in agreement with the "hard" style. According to the guy on his page he says this is controversial? I can't understand why. Its seems like a simple question.If the first 20 miles are the most important according to him, than my ride home from the dealership was it. I remember it clearly. I was in mostly 2nd or 3rd. I kept varrying my speed (0-80), partly because of lots of red lights, and partly because of some bends on the way home. I may have gone to 8k rpm once in a few instances. No way it was "hard" though.
I think I am going to dedicate the next warm day we get to spend the entire day breaking in the bike. I'll change the oil and filter after that day of riding to be extra cautious and to see if I can find any flakes..
sand is a bit aggressive for the street,, oven cleaner works better... but i only have aircooled experience...
you can hear the rpm and pitch change as the rings seat..
oil flush.. and cyl head torque,, valve adj,, ride!
Not going to really matter many manufacturers run the engines on a dyno before they go in the bike and they have been heat cycled already.
sent from a device using a program
sent from a device using a program
Supernam
Well-known member
I would have to agree with you. I'm sure they would need to make sure everything is within spec. Imagine if someone on the assembly line forgot to tighten something? I don't see them selling bikes with engines that may blow up within the first few hours.
I once did assembly in an automotive plant. Everything has to be torqued according to spec & if a bolt was over torqued it was thrown away & a new one was used. They say a bolt is cheaper than a lawsuit.
Once they are properly torqued, you use a marker to make a mark on it. Ever purchased a new bike/car & see all these markings on the head of bolts? It's not a kid with a crayon.
So yeah, if someone forgot to torque something on your engine, that's pure negligence
So I'm a machinist & here is my input. If I was to cut into a workpiece & it is a precision cut, I would never push my cutting tool at a very high feed rate. Instead, I would slowly push my cutting tool into the workpiece. Same thing as mating surfaces in an engine. If you want them to mate properly you would slowly & gradually run the surfaces over each other. Not ram them over each other. Doing so can cause chipping in the surfaces & create an improper seal
Supernam
Well-known member
I'm not disagreeing with you but I've seen people who "think" they've torqued something and put a mark on the head of the bolts. It could be an accident, or it could be a disgruntled employee who may not plan on working there any longer. I actually dyno test Caterpillar diesel engines, while it's different the idea is still the same where you have to make sure the engine is within spec before allowing it to go to the consumer.
conundrum
Well-known member
I do essentially what the manual says, which is an 'easier' break in, however the big thing I always make sure to do is never be digital with the throttle and never lug the engine. Essentially I make sure to always vary the revs, use various gears, and try to keep the engine to maybe 60% of the rev range for the first 500km. After that, each 100km or so I let myself go 10% higher, until I am using 100% at the end. Oil and filter changed at 1000km, or whatever the manual states.
After 500 though I will the odd time give it a steady burst above my self-imposed rev limit, but I try to keep it where I want it 99% of the time. Also remember that the most critical period is when the engine is run the first few minutes...and that is typically done at the factory before they deem a bike/car/etc fit for sale.
After 500 though I will the odd time give it a steady burst above my self-imposed rev limit, but I try to keep it where I want it 99% of the time. Also remember that the most critical period is when the engine is run the first few minutes...and that is typically done at the factory before they deem a bike/car/etc fit for sale.
msatrakkoic
Well-known member
This makes the most sense to me
Skyway6
Well-known member
I have always did the hard break in. The first couple hundred km keep the revs around 60% of max. A few bursts above that occasionally.
Vary the revs with up down the rev range and lots of engine braking. I am following what the Honda manual says for the most part.
"During the first 500km of running, follow these guidelines to ensure your motorcycle's future reliability and performance"
"avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration"
"avoid hard braking and rapid downshifts"
"ride conservatively"
That is it. nothing about keeping revs below a set rpm. And only 500km for breaking in to be complete instead of the typical 1000km.
Vary the revs with up down the rev range and lots of engine braking. I am following what the Honda manual says for the most part.
"During the first 500km of running, follow these guidelines to ensure your motorcycle's future reliability and performance"
"avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration"
"avoid hard braking and rapid downshifts"
"ride conservatively"
That is it. nothing about keeping revs below a set rpm. And only 500km for breaking in to be complete instead of the typical 1000km.
It's a conspiracy man, like those airplane chemtrails that get sucked into the intake of your bike and you will need a rebuild at 100,000km.
I wear this during break-in.
This is not unusual, but you left out the parts about what engine work you must have done.
I would guess the number of people that put >80,000km on a bike from new to be 1%, but they still argue about oil types and pay for oil analysis and seek advice on how to make an engine last a gazillion miles on the web.
We're enthusiasts, we discuss topics than 99% of the users have no interest in.
That's why they label us as bike crazy
Thank you for the break down of how you did it, and also that you haven't noticed a difference from your personal vehicles.
This is a big concern to me. So I will do a few extra oil changes. I already bought the oil, I just need to grab a couple filters..
That is good to know! I tried to look up information on Suzuki and if they do that, but I couldn't find it.
Insightful.. thank you.
Yeah its strange to argue over something that should have a clear cut answer. I understand that racing teams keep secrets to ensure competitive edge etc.. I am more concerned about the oil burning, and max potential horsepower over longevity of the engine long term. Taking all things into consideration I think I am going to do a hybrid break in.. some Honda advice, some Ducati advice..
.. including the premature oil changes to remove aluminum flakes.
Brant Bandit
Well-known member
I just picked up my new Concours 1400 last week and break in specifies not to exceed 4000 RPM for the first 600 KM. Then not to exceed 6000 RPM until after 1500 KM. I haven't been able to ride much yet...still under 400 KM, but I'm going to follow the owners manual exactly. I can extend my warranty for 9 years too, so I'm doing what Kawasaki says. They know better than I do, and if they're willing to do warranty for almost ten years they must be right.
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