Rotella not all that? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Rotella not all that?

daught

Well-known member
I am a big fan of items that offer a lot of value cheaply. Most of the internet highly praises T6. I tried in in my motorcycle and car and it does not perform that well. In both my ktm smc and cbr f2 it made shifting noticeably harder. In my 1.8T audi it makes the valve train tick way louder than german castrol and motul 8100.

Any one have similar experiences?
 
I am a big fan of items that offer a lot of value cheaply. Most of the internet highly praises T6. I tried in in my motorcycle and car and it does not perform that well. In both my ktm smc and cbr f2 it made shifting noticeably harder. In my 1.8T audi it makes the valve train tick way louder than german castrol and motul 8100.

Any one have similar experiences?
Made my R6 shift very "clunky" or gritty as well. Went back to Amsoil MCF and silky smooth again. That's all I've run since in all my bikes, never a need to try anything else :)
 
I am a big fan of items that offer a lot of value cheaply. Most of the internet highly praises T6. I tried in in my motorcycle and car and it does not perform that well. In both my ktm smc and cbr f2 it made shifting noticeably harder. In my 1.8T audi it makes the valve train tick way louder than german castrol and motul 8100.

Any one have similar experiences?
They're not a true synthetic. They're a glorified dino oil. The classification in N America is different from Europe. Anything made in Europe that is classified synthetic is a "true" synthetic. Castrol 0w 30 comes to mind.

To answer your question, T6 doesn't work well in my bike. Then again I'm coming from using Amsoil. Those are true synthetic.

You might wanna be careful using that in Audi. Audi has their own classification needed in their turbocharged engines. If an oil doesn't mention the Audi classification it's not suitable for audi. Be warned!
 
Care to elaborate how T6 is not a "true" synthetic, I've always been under the belief that it's made from Group IV base, making it purely synthetic. Could be wrong though

Personally, I've used T6 in the two Yamaha's in my sig without issue. The FZ6 went 112k km in my hands, 90% of which was with T6. When I sold it, the bike didn't burn a drop of oil and shifted without issue.

PS, 2nd of April and an oil thread already. Really? :)



They're not a true synthetic. They're a glorified dino oil. The classification in N America is different from Europe. Anything made in Europe that is classified synthetic is a "true" synthetic. Castrol 0w 30 comes to mind.

To answer your question, T6 doesn't work well in my bike. Then again I'm coming from using Amsoil. Those are true synthetic.

You might wanna be careful using that in Audi. Audi has their own classification needed in their turbocharged engines. If an oil doesn't mention the Audi classification it's not suitable for audi. Be warned!
 
More than half of audizine runs T6. I am sure it's not a bad oil, but it has it's quirks. The question
"what group" an oil is quite murky. Many contail elements from highly refined III, IV and some esters (V).
 
Care to elaborate how T6 is not a "true" synthetic, I've always been under the belief that it's made from Group IV base, making it purely synthetic. Could be wrong though

Personally, I've used T6 in the two Yamaha's in my sig without issue. The FZ6 went 112k km in my hands, 90% of which was with T6. When I sold it, the bike didn't burn a drop of oil and shifted without issue.

PS, 2nd of April and an oil thread already. Really? :)
Can't remember the specifics but in short it's a refined dino oil. For that price, I highly doubt it is a true synthetic. Castrol synthec is not a true synthetic, so is mobil 1 I believe. All oil that carry 0w-x is a true synthetic. Castrol 0w-30 is made in Germany.

One can also argue they run dino oil & get their bike to 100k. There are very little failures from running dino oil. Once you do oil change you're good.

If you want to learn about oil google Bob the Oil Guy
 
When my bike runs to 104*C in traffic I cannot get into neutral while running T6. Took me a while to figure that out. Replaced with Amsoil, problem gone
 
Been running t6 for track and street and no problems. Tbh I don't keep my bikes long enough to notice failures but they all shift fine in my hands
 
I've heard good things from yamalube synthetic, having not used it myself can't comment. Personally I like amsoil but at the price point and frequently of oil changes t6 works just fine.
 
Can't remember the specifics but in short it's a refined dino oil. For that price, I highly doubt it is a true synthetic. Castrol synthec is not a true synthetic, so is mobil 1 I believe. All oil that carry 0w-x is a true synthetic. Castrol 0w-30 is made in Germany.

One can also argue they run dino oil & get their bike to 100k. There are very little failures from running dino oil. Once you do oil change you're good.

If you want to learn about oil google Bob the Oil Guy

Rotella t6 comes in 0w40 and 5w40. So 1 is full syn and 1 isn't?
 
So is every amsoil group V ester based?
I don't remember the groups to be honest, but Amsoil, Royal purple & other expensive ones were true synthetics. All amsoil are synthetics!

There's a type of car amsoil which have no molybdenum lubricant which is JASO safe. This is good for wet clutch. Much cheaper than the motorcycle version. It even say can be used in motorcycles. I bought it at a dealer price in cases

Castrol synthec was taken to court for false advertising. That's why they have sales regularly now
Rotella t6 comes in 0w40 and 5w40. So 1 is full syn and 1 isn't?
Most likely the 0w is a synthetic because only a synthetic can not freeze at low temps.

For Castrol & Mobil 1, their 0w is made in Europe even though the packaging might look alike. Made in different places
 
"Full synthetic" or "true synthetic" or anything similar is not proper terminology. The proper terminology is "group I" through "group V" which describes the chemical makeup - or you can use "PAO" or "ester" if you like.

Pure ester, or pure PAO, or pure "group V", is not necessarily the best thing for your engine.

I'm skeptical of Amsoil because the tests that they publish, which always show their products in a glowing light, are the very definition of "conflict of interest". Just because a fluid passes a certain 4-ball wear test, or whatever, doesn't mean it's going to be best for your engine. There is a certain test that they use, in which Head and Shoulders shampoo passes better than just about any engine oil (but they neglect to tell you that). Would you use Head and Shoulders in your engine? I'm not saying that Amsoil is a bad product, just that it's not necessarily all that it is cracked up to be.

Engine oils are getting increasingly specialized. I used to use Mobil 1 in everything, then switched to Rotella T6 in everything, but I now use a M-B 229.1 oil (happens to be Mobil 1 0w40 European car spec) in the application that calls for it, and JASO MA oil (currently Motul 7100) in the application that calls for it (all the bikes).
 
Their tests do seems biased, but have anyone ever said anything bad about the oil?
 
My bike loved the Amsoil, I'm no oil expert but the shifts were silky smooth with the stuff and engine just purred. That being said motul made it shift like a truck and was a fight to downshift, considerable more engine noise as well.
The T6 is right in the middle.
 
T6 in both my bikes for the past 6yrs. 50,000 was the highest I put one (it saw street and some track) and it didn't burn a drop of oil and shifted perfectly when sold.
40k on my current 1000 and the engine/trans work as new.

Transmission shifts smoother on T6 compared to Motul and the shifts stay smoother longer as well (I get about 4k out of Motul before the shifts are really bad, T6 I change at 6k).
 
I had T6 in a bike that was having cooling issue's (supermoto CRF 450) Boiled the hell out of it at the track and was running next to no coolant (waterwetter). The bike was so hot it was vaporizing fuel and began to miss and fall flat at WOT. I pulled off the track and discovered what had happened and thought I cooked the motor for sure. Long story short pulled it apart and everything was mint, not a sign of any burn or heat from the crank up. I guess its a little luck but have to stand behind the fresh T6,put everything back together and still rode the hell out of it for the rest of the season.
 
I used to use KY jelly had. No problems with that .. I have used the regular rotella and Now using rotella T6 , the jury is still out so far so good.


"If i was educated, I'd be a damn fool"
 
Other than m.benn84 with an actual tear down and inspection I keep hearing "my bike works perfect". Well it either runs or it doesn't. Just because your bike hasn't blown up in xxxxxxkm while using an oil doesn't mean it's a great oil. Tear the bike down and look at your main/rod bearings, look at your cam journals, and cylinder walls. That will tell you if your choice of oil is keeping your motor "working perfect".

I tried the t6 in my street bike and it started to shift horribly after 1000km. I use it in my diesel truck and I'm trying it in my car to see if I stop having consumption issues (wrx, it's sorta normal). I've been using the euro formula castrol syn for years but after 2000km it starts to disappear pretty quick. I use Motul in my race bikes as many engine builders reccomend it so that's good enough for me.
 

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