Clutch Issues - Car Related | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Clutch Issues - Car Related

Read the edited post. 91k is way too early for a clutch job. either your or previous owner is slipping the clutch way too much daily for premature wear like that or the dealerships being a dealership aka ****ing thieves.

unless you want to go with a lightweight flywheel and pros/cons associated with it, id just stick with oem, have it resurfaced and go with a slightly more holding power clutch and pressure plate. They'll be better and cheaper than oem
 
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The previous owner learned to drive on it or just liked doing rolling burnouts when leaving the timmy's drive thru?
 
The previous owner learned to drive on it or just liked doing rolling burnouts when leaving the timmy's drive thru?

Stupid Fast and Furious movies made boy racers out of everyone....

As for the clutch replacement....

- Dealership #1 said 'typical clutch symptoms' without finding a cause.
- Dealership #2 said 'your clutch is very firm, much more firm than a brand new clutch so you need to replace it' is their theory

Personally I don't feel it's overly firm driving it, but I don't have a baseline to compare to. If it comes down to it I'll just buy a clutch kit c/w flywheel and have it replaced. OEM or the supplier that does OEM will do the job for my needs. I don't race it or anything like that.

Next challenge....creaking suspension system and the leaking struts...stupid Honda...
 
Also, dunno if it still applies to your year but you might want to research "ISB bearing"
 
UPDATE: Honda Dealer just called....

1. Master cylinder is grinding - to be replaced under warranty
2. Clutch needs replacing soon - $2000 + tax .... I think I puked a little when I heard that...

Next question is, why is the MC grinding (what does that even mean)? I don't think the diagnosis is complete. If the pedal is still stiff, there's something wrong further down the line that is putting undue pressure on the MC.

It's almost like they're telling you what you want to hear so you get your clutch replaced.
 
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OP are you going to official Honda Dealers?

Considered taking it to a private shop for another opinion?
 
On Rock Auto (all US $$$s), it looks like the clutch kit (presure plate, throw bearing and clutch disk) is around a $150 item, slave and master are ~$20 items each--give or take. I would guess six to eight hours labour for a clutch job, just a total guess since I am not a Honda guy. There will also me some machining costs for the flywheel.

If they are going to replace the master (assuming they mean clutch master and not brake master...) under warranty, have them do that first and see if it fixes it. If it is binding or "grinding" at all it would cause this.

If it were me I would fully troubleshoot the slave and master and I might even replace them both prior to doing the cutch job. Logic is, if you do the clutch you will likely replace them anyways (for $40 why not!) if it fixes the issue you saved the clutch job.. so replace them first and see if it fixes it. If not they are still basically new when you do the clutch.
 
Civic Si, and fried clutch at 91k.

Uh huh, once upon a time, I had a 94 GS-R. More smoky burnouts, jack rabbit starts, and powershifting than I care to admit. These cars just beg to be driven hard, and its fun.

My clutch only lasted about 80k.


Skip the dealers, any competent mechanic can do a honda clutch. I'm pretty sure I paid less than a grand many years ago to replace mine.....
 
Civic Si, and fried clutch at 91k.

Uh huh, once upon a time, I had a 94 GS-R. More smoky burnouts, jack rabbit starts, and powershifting than I care to admit. These cars just beg to be driven hard, and its fun.

My clutch only lasted about 80k.


Skip the dealers, any competent mechanic can do a honda clutch. I'm pretty sure I paid less than a grand many years ago to replace mine.....

I think previous owner is the most likely culprit in this instance. Got the car back and the clutch feels stiff but I never actually thought it would be any lighter so I don't see much difference from previous. Actually felt overly light for the first few shifts after the MC was replaced.

Yes the dealers are all Honda dealers. Will try my own mechanic this weekend to see if he can take a look.

RL - tried the 4th gear and 50kph, rev and drop clutch, all that happened is the rpms dropped down and the car started accelerating with no slippage.

Thanks for the input guys, really appreciate it!
 
Call Anthony and Sandra @ 10fintec.
He is a genius with Civics.
 
Did you give it full gas after dropping the clutch? if the rpm dropped quick then the clutch is fine.

I think previous owner is the most likely culprit in this instance. Got the car back and the clutch feels stiff but I never actually thought it would be any lighter so I don't see much difference from previous. Actually felt overly light for the first few shifts after the MC was replaced.

Yes the dealers are all Honda dealers. Will try my own mechanic this weekend to see if he can take a look.

RL - tried the 4th gear and 50kph, rev and drop clutch, all that happened is the rpms dropped down and the car started accelerating with no slippage.

Thanks for the input guys, really appreciate it!
 
At the dealer you'll get high prices because they overcharge for parts, and replace parts that don't need replacing. I'm not a honda guy, but checking online all the friction plates are sprung hub which means that you have a single mass flywheel. Those can be resurfaced for $60. At honda, they'll tell you it needs to be replaced and not even offer resurfacing as an option. Maybe the faulty MC was putting pressure on the pressure plate causing a slight amount of slip, which over time burned out the clutch...just a theory. Either way, unless there is some horrific design flaw which adds a tremendous amount of work, dropping the tranny and replacing everything shouldn't take too long. You should get the flywheel resurfaced though.
 
You folks are giving this poor guy crap for a worn out clutch, when it is apparent that something in the clutch conga line isn't working properly to begin with. Maybe that was a contributing factor???
 
Back in your hole!! No-one is giving him ****. We're trying to figure out if the actual clutch is bad or if this is classic dealership shennanigans.



You folks are giving this poor guy crap for a worn out clutch, when it is apparent that something in the clutch conga line isn't working properly to begin with. Maybe that was a contributing factor???
 
The dealerships are useless....instead of trying to source the problem they automatically go for the clutch as the issue....which is possible, but there are 4 other pieces in the puzzle (master cylinder, slave cylinder, hydraulic line, and clutch cable) that are covered under warranty....yet they go for the main one that's not. Bearings and pressure plate are also not included due to friction material.

Since the MC was replaced there's been no issue in change of shift feel while driving. Clutch is still heavy, but no longer gets progressively harder.

Called a couple of places around to check out smaller shop replacement cost and I'm averaging around $800-$1000 for the work with parts.
 
Back in your hole!! No-one is giving him ****.

Hmmm

Civic Si, and fried clutch at 91k.

Uh huh, once upon a time, I had a 94 GS-R. More smoky burnouts, jack rabbit starts, and powershifting than I care to admit. These cars just beg to be driven hard, and its fun.

My clutch only lasted about 80k.

Read the edited post. 91k is way too early for a clutch job. either your or previous owner is slipping the clutch way too much daily for premature wear like that or the dealerships being a dealership aka ****ing thieves.
 
Thats not giving someone ****. Those are valid observations.

If the pedal pressure remains the same i wouldnt fret. They may have gone with different sized plunger on master cyl causing the difference in pressure feel.
 

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