How to fix hyperblinking with a $5 adjustable rate flasher | GTAMotorcycle.com

How to fix hyperblinking with a $5 adjustable rate flasher

spray____

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I see a lot of posts about this problem, and a lot of confusion around how to fix it. One of the previous owners of my bike put LED signals in my bike and never bothered to fix the flash rate. I think this is a common scenario. If I had realized how easy it is to fix, I would have done this a lot sooner. I'm not an electrical engineer, but I know enough to get by. I'm going to explain things as best as I can, as I understand them. Anyone with more accurate or complete information please feel free to include it in the thread below. This was created for a 2006 R6, but it is very straight forward to translate the wiring to any other motorcycle.


What causes hyperblinking?
One the most common modifications to sportbikes are aftermarket turn signals. Whether it's a fender eliminator for the back, low profile signals for the front, or an integrated taillight, they are almost always LEDs. The problem with this, is switching the signals to LEDs bring the inevitable hyperblinking issue: an on/off cycle that is way too fast. This is because of the flasher relay, which is responsible for the cycling.


The stock relay senses the current being drawn by the signal bulbs. Incandescent bulbs draw a large amount of current and the relay produces a normal flash rate based on this electrical load. In some older relays, the flashing is achieved by heating a bimetallic strip of metal that heats up/cools off based on the load; other more modern relays have electronic circuits inside that sense the load. When a bulb filament burns out, the current drawn by the signal system is much less than normal and the flasher relay changes the flash rate to 2-3 flashes per second (hyperflashes) to signal to the operator that a bulb is burnt out. LEDs draw significantly less current than incandescent bulbs. If LEDs are substituted for incandescent bulbs, the flasher relay senses the same reduced current draw as it would see with a burnt bulb. The stock flasher relay needs to be replaced with one that works with the reduced load offered by LEDs.


What are my options?
One of the most common options are resistors. Resistors will add resistance back into the circuit and keep the relay from blinking too fast. They work by turning energy into heat. If you know what you're doing you can grab a few cheap resistors from an electronics supply store for a few bucks, but they have to be rated for at least the number of watts that are going through your turn signal system. If they aren't they'll get dangerously hot. A lot of motorcycle shops will sell aluminum encased resistors specifically for LED turn signals, but they can be expensive. I had a look in a local shop and they wanted $10 each. I'd need at least 2 (one per side), possibly 4 if they weren't enough.

The better solution in my opinion is an electronic flasher relay. An electronic flasher has a stable blinking rate regardless of the amount of current flowing through it. The easiest thing to do is buy a plug and play flasher relay that matches your bike. When I was looking for them, I saw them for about $40, or $60 for the adjustable ones. On the other hand, if you have a bit of time, prefer to save some cash, and enjoy tinkering with your bike, it's pretty easy to fit a generic one yourself.


What you'll need
Some of these are optional, but if you want to follow exactly what I did, you'll need:


- Electronic flasher relay
- Some wire
- Solder, soldering iron
- Female spade connectors, a ring connector
- Heat shrink
- Knife or saw for cutting
- Epoxy
- Sticky velcro


The first thing you'll need is an generic electronic flasher relay. I ordered this one with an adjustable rate off Ebay for about $5. If you're in a rush you could probably grab one from any auto parts store for a bit more cash.
flasher.jpg



Remove the old flasher
Once you have all your supplies, you should unhook the battery while you're doing any sort of electrical work. Then, you'll start by taking out the older flasher relay. Your best bet is to look in the service manual or search online to find out where it is. AFAIK, most are located under the seat or around the battery.


Build a connector
YOU'LL ONLY WANT TO DO THIS IF IT'S JUST A FLASHER. I've seen a few bikes that have a bunch of relays built into a single unit. You don't want to start cutting that or destroying it. If it has more than 2 connections on it, it's probably doing something more than just flashing. If you're not sure, look at a wiring diagram and ask someone who knows what they're doing for help.

If you have just a flasher, you can recycle it by turning it into a wire connection so you don't have to touch any of the stock bike wiring. Realistically you'll probably never use the flasher for anything again anyway. Even if you did want to put all your signals back to stock incandescent bulbs, your new flasher will work for those too.


stock_flasher.jpg



On mine, near the connection end of the flasher there was a little tab where I could stick a screwdriver in and pop it apart. The end will came off and I found a small circuit board inside. The circuit board was held in place by channels down the side of the housing, and slid straight out. I cut the circuit board into 2 pieces so I had a small piece with just the external connections on it. Then I made a similar cut to the black plastic housing so it was just a bit bigger than the small piece of circuit board. Finally, I took the small piece of circuit board, the small housing, and the end piece and popped them back together.


Then, I cut some pieces of wire. Think about where you want to mount the new flasher, and generously cut yourself 2 pieces. I mounted mine in the tail under the pillion seat so it's easily accessible for adjusting without tools, but out of the weather. I stripped the wire ends and soldered them to the back of your new connector. Finally, I mixed up some epoxy and filled the back of the connector. This helps hold everything in place, and provide some weather protection. Now it looks like this:


plug.jpg

epoxy.jpg

plugged_in.jpg



I added a spade connectors to the other end of the wires and heat shrunk them. The last thing I did was to make a third wire that is used as a ground. It has a spade connector and heat shrink on one end, and a ring connector on the other.


Next you'll need to have a look at the wiring diagram for your bike to see how things should connect. If you don't have one, you can test with a multimeter. The + on the flasher relay goes toward the battery+ on your wiring diagram. The L on the flasher, goes toward the other wire. Finally, the - on the flasher is a ground. It needs to connect to the negative battery terminal, or an unpainted metal surface on your bike.
diagram.jpg

unit.jpg



Take a small piece of velcro and stick one side to the flasher relay, and the other to where you want to mount it. Once everything is plugged in, reconnect your battery, turn the key, and try them out.
 
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Princess Auto has an electronic flasher on the shelf, under $5 I think.
 
I don't see any reason you couldn't. For an extra $2, I liked the idea of having an adjustable rate so I could be sure it was set at exactly the speed I wanted. Whether I actually need it or not, control is better than no control.
Ahhh, I see. Digital flashers blink at the correct/legal OEM flash rate so you'd never ever need to adjust it.
 
Ahhh, I see. Digital flashers blink at the correct/legal OEM flash rate so you'd never ever need to adjust it.

Yeah, I've heard that. The funny thing I noticed when setting it up is every car is slightly different. I'd tweak it to match a specific car, then go for a ride. When I'd get to a set of lights, I'd notice a different car I was following was slightly faster or slower than me.

Also, if I ever get a ticket for improper blinking rate, its because the cop is determined to give me a ticket for something.
 
What causes hyperblinking?
One the most common modifications to sportbikes are aftermarket turn signals. Whether it's a fender eliminator for the back, low profile signals for the front, or an integrated taillight, they are almost always LEDs. The problem with this, is switching the signals to LEDs bring the inevitable hyperblinking issue: an on/off cycle that is way too fast. This is because of the flasher relay, which is responsible for the cycling.

The stock relay senses the current being drawn by the signal bulbs. Incandescent bulbs draw a large amount of current and the relay produces a normal flash rate based on this electrical load. In some older relays, the flashing is achieved by heating a bimetallic strip of metal that heats up/cools off based on the load; other more modern relays have electronic circuits inside that sense the load. When a bulb filament burns out, the current drawn by the signal system is much less than normal and the flasher relay changes the flash rate to 2-3 flashes per second (hyperflashes) to signal to the operator that a bulb is burnt out. LEDs draw significantly less current than incandescent bulbs. If LEDs are substituted for incandescent bulbs, the flasher relay senses the same reduced current draw as it would see with a burnt bulb. The stock flasher relay needs to be replaced with one that works with the reduced load offered by LEDs.
 
Spray,

If your OEM flasher was electronic, it might have been simpler to fix to the problem on the card. Much of the flashing logic is built into a IC on that circuit card. Most have a sense lead which, when cut, will stop hyperflashing. The ICs are standard and the manufacturer's datasheet will give the pins that sense the load. This page gives a recipe for altering a BMW motorcycle flasher module for use with LEDs.
 
What causes hyperblinking?
One the most common modifications to sportbikes are aftermarket turn signals. Whether it's a fender eliminator for the back, low profile signals for the front, or an integrated taillight, they are almost always LEDs. The problem with this, is switching the signals to LEDs bring the inevitable hyperblinking issue: an on/off cycle that is way too fast. This is because of the flasher relay, which is responsible for the cycling.

The stock relay senses the current being drawn by the signal bulbs. Incandescent bulbs draw a large amount of current and the relay produces a normal flash rate based on this electrical load. In some older relays, the flashing is achieved by heating a bimetallic strip of metal that heats up/cools off based on the load; other more modern relays have electronic circuits inside that sense the load. When a bulb filament burns out, the current drawn by the signal system is much less than normal and the flasher relay changes the flash rate to 2-3 flashes per second (hyperflashes) to signal to the operator that a bulb is burnt out. LEDs draw significantly less current than incandescent bulbs. If LEDs are substituted for incandescent bulbs, the flasher relay senses the same reduced current draw as it would see with a burnt bulb. The stock flasher relay needs to be replaced with one that works with the reduced load offered by LEDs.

Thanks for the info. Now that you mention it, I remember hearing that before. I can't believe I forgot. Updated.
 
Spray,

If your OEM flasher was electronic, it might have been simpler to fix to the problem on the card. Much of the flashing logic is built into a IC on that circuit card. Most have a sense lead which, when cut, will stop hyperflashing. The ICs are standard and the manufacturer's datasheet will give the pins that sense the load. This page gives a recipe for altering a BMW motorcycle flasher module for use with LEDs.

That's very cool, I haven't heard that before. I did this last fall, but if I'd realized at the time I definitely would have tried it first.
 
So the reason for cutting the flasher relay apart was because your bike uses a relay module for the flashing.

Many times the bike's standard signal circuit uses a standard flasher relay, in which case no cutting is necessary - just make sure the flasher relay you buy has terminals that match the original one. (Some have two terminals, others have three, and which ones are positive, negative, and output can vary.) Then you just unplug the original and plug in the new one.

But even if the wiring goes into a relay module ... I don't see why you had to cut apart the relay. Buy some suitable spade connectors, extract the pins/wires out of the relay module that are related to the turn signal circuit, crimp and solder and heat-shrink your spade connectors in place, done.

If the relay box uses common power and ground circuits, you might have to install separate wiring leading to your circuit.

If your turn signal circuit uses the switch as an input to a body control module, as opposed to hard-wiring leading to the bulbs with all of the bulb current going through the switch, you are out of luck. I'm not sure if any bikes are doing that yet, but a lot of cars are.

P.S. Not dissing the idea, at all - just exploring alternatives. I have a bike that uses a non-standard relay module which is acting up, and I'm not sure if originals (a) exist or (b) will solve the problem. Your idea of simply wiring around the stock relay is a good one in that case. I'll have to investigate what else is inside that relay box ...
 
But even if the wiring goes into a relay module ... I don't see why you had to cut apart the relay. Buy some suitable spade connectors, extract the pins/wires out of the relay module that are related to the turn signal circuit, crimp and solder and heat-shrink your spade connectors in place, done.
That would work, but it seems like more work to me. I already had one connection on the wires. The other side was the relay itself, which I was about to throw away. It seemed easier to me to cut it in half and solder my wires right onto that.

P.S. Not dissing the idea, at all - just exploring alternatives. I have a bike that uses a non-standard relay module which is acting up, and I'm not sure if originals (a) exist or (b) will solve the problem. Your idea of simply wiring around the stock relay is a good one in that case. I'll have to investigate what else is inside that relay box ...
Mine didn't have the same blade connections found on most standard relays you buy in an auto parts store. I could have found a used one, but that's what I had so it wouldn't have solved the hyper blinking issue. I looked at some direct replacements that would plug right into the harness, but they were $40, which seems insane. It's not about the money, its about paying 4x what you know something is worth. For me I already had everything except the $5 flasher, so it seemed like the best option.
 

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