I ride slower on the street now that I do track. I start getting more aggressive if I haven't done a trackday in a while.
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Bike protection/crash protection what really works?
- Thread starter Xrayhonda
- Start date
I ride slower on the street now that I do track. I start getting more aggressive if I haven't done a trackday in a while.
Same here. Sometimes on the street I have to tell myself to reel it in and take it easy.
You'll be fine out there. It sounds like you are starting with the right mind set. Big or small bike if you want to race, join SOAR, a track day is just for fun, a chance to improve your skills. Nothing wrong with pushing, but the real winners the ones who can load the bike up in one piece. We have seen street riders new to the track step on 1000's with the wrong mind set and end up with in the hospital with severe injuries or hitting other bikes. You can do that on any bike, just quicker on a 1000. I started with a ninja 500 on the track, then went to a 1000RR. It was a bit step. The 1000RR is great at mosport and SMP, but the 600's are better for the smaller tracks. The power is fun, but you will spend more on tires.
Smoothness far out weights throttle % for tire budget. I use the GB covers, been through many crashes and work excellent. You don't really need to do much to the bike to start out. Everyone starts strapping high $ parts to bikes, but you don't really need them the first season. Wait with some of it until you are faster. For all of the parts I've put on it, here are the most important ones starting out:
1.) case covers, absolute must, the cases are extremely thin
2.) rear shock, stock on the 08-11 is terrible. Front forks are actually not bad, you'll be fine starting with correct springs
3.) brembo master brake cylinder + SS lines + RBF 660
4.) Fiberglass + remove all the street stuff + steering damper (I used the stock damper until I took all the street stuff off, which made the front too light. Part of this might be the ignition retarder on the bike masking the throttle reading to the ECU which may affect the HESD, but just a theory), ABS plastic sucks to crash/repair
5.) quickshifter was nice to add, but you don't actually need it starting out
c ya out there
Smoothness far out weights throttle % for tire budget. I use the GB covers, been through many crashes and work excellent. You don't really need to do much to the bike to start out. Everyone starts strapping high $ parts to bikes, but you don't really need them the first season. Wait with some of it until you are faster. For all of the parts I've put on it, here are the most important ones starting out:
1.) case covers, absolute must, the cases are extremely thin
2.) rear shock, stock on the 08-11 is terrible. Front forks are actually not bad, you'll be fine starting with correct springs
3.) brembo master brake cylinder + SS lines + RBF 660
4.) Fiberglass + remove all the street stuff + steering damper (I used the stock damper until I took all the street stuff off, which made the front too light. Part of this might be the ignition retarder on the bike masking the throttle reading to the ECU which may affect the HESD, but just a theory), ABS plastic sucks to crash/repair
5.) quickshifter was nice to add, but you don't actually need it starting out
c ya out there
Thats what its about, having fun. I'm not racing anyone I'm just about improving my riding and seeing what the bike can do. When you're in love, you're in love and I love the 1000RR. 65%, 10% it doesn't matter as long as I'm having fun and its safe. I'll progress at my own pace and take it one day at a time. Just going to have fun and meet some new friends and if I'm being passed by the ninja 250, its all good.
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Xrayhonda
Well-known member
Thanks for all the info, I really appreciate it. So far I have to change the clip-ons that came with the track bike. The previous owner was very extreme by my newbie standards. The clip-ons are so low that my hands are almost touching the fairing of the bike when I grab the handlebars. I also have to change the front brake reservoir from the tube reservoir to the regular oem reservoir. So here’s my WISH list for the track bike.
1. Woodcraft 1.5 inch riser clip-ons
2. Woodcraft bar end weighted sliders assembly set
3. Woodcraft swingarm slider spools
4. Woodcraft engine stator cover
5. Woodcraft clutch cover
6. Woodcraft frame sliders
7. Armour bodies dzus bodywork fastener kit
8. PSR magnetic oil drain bolt
9. Forcefield pro L2K evo back protector
10. Forcefield armour upgrade-hip pad
11. Vesrah JL sintered metal front/rear brake pads.
12. GIpro DS series gear indicator
13. Speedo healer
14. RBF 660
I’ve already changed the tires to Dunlop Q3; went with 55 for the read vs. the 50. Wish I could do the rear suspension and the brakes, but I have to save some money for track days. I’m already over budget buying the track bike but I think it’s going to be cheaper than trying to change my road bike into a track bike. I would hate to put a scratch on my road bike, and the idea of crashing it blows my mind; ok so I’m attached to my road bike. lol.
1. Woodcraft 1.5 inch riser clip-ons
2. Woodcraft bar end weighted sliders assembly set
3. Woodcraft swingarm slider spools
4. Woodcraft engine stator cover
5. Woodcraft clutch cover
6. Woodcraft frame sliders
7. Armour bodies dzus bodywork fastener kit
8. PSR magnetic oil drain bolt
9. Forcefield pro L2K evo back protector
10. Forcefield armour upgrade-hip pad
11. Vesrah JL sintered metal front/rear brake pads.
12. GIpro DS series gear indicator
13. Speedo healer
14. RBF 660
I’ve already changed the tires to Dunlop Q3; went with 55 for the read vs. the 50. Wish I could do the rear suspension and the brakes, but I have to save some money for track days. I’m already over budget buying the track bike but I think it’s going to be cheaper than trying to change my road bike into a track bike. I would hate to put a scratch on my road bike, and the idea of crashing it blows my mind; ok so I’m attached to my road bike. lol.
13 seems strange as you will have to tape over your speedo at most track days and you shouldn't be looking at it on the track.
c ya out there
Best go-fast advice I can offer is to let smergy show you the way around for a few laps. I did that at TMP and dropped two seconds...
(Disclaimer: this advice may not apply at Grand Bend, unless you want to be picking soybean pods out of your fairings....)
Roomie
Banned
Best go-fast advice I can offer is to let smergy show you the way around for a few laps. I did that at TMP and dropped two seconds...
(Disclaimer: this advice may not apply at Grand Bend, unless you want to be picking soybean pods out of your fairings....)
I'd vouch for this given the chance to even go for a road ride with him. He knows the "adventurous" route :thumbup:
Xrayhonda
Well-known member
When I was looking for my track bike, I had two bikes to choose from. The second bike had 34,000km and the seller basically said that this was due to the gearing change and the actual mileage was lower. This was actually one of the factors that contributed to me buying the first bike. If I were to sell my bike in 5 years, I wouldn’t want this to be a factor in someone buying my bike. That’s why the speedohealer is on my wish list. The second bike is still for sale on kijiji if anyone is looking for a 1000rr track bike.
SpeedoHealer v4
Highlights. Programable CalibratorCalibrate your bike’s speedometer to get 100% accurate readings – even with the most radical sprocket swaps! Don’t let anything spoil the fun! ConverterConvert Kph to Mph or vice versa on import vehicles or during your trip abroad. Advanced Top Speed MemoryRecall your true top speed to your factory speedometer by a press of a button..IntroductionOn most modern motorcycles factory speedometer over-reading could be as high as 10%. So even a modest gearing change can have the speedometer off by 15%. Changing the sprockets will also result in higher odometer reading, decreasing resale value without valid reasons. The SpeedoHealer is an inexpensive, convenient and very simple way to sort these speedo and odo issues
SpeedoHealer v4
Highlights. Programable CalibratorCalibrate your bike’s speedometer to get 100% accurate readings – even with the most radical sprocket swaps! Don’t let anything spoil the fun! ConverterConvert Kph to Mph or vice versa on import vehicles or during your trip abroad. Advanced Top Speed MemoryRecall your true top speed to your factory speedometer by a press of a button..IntroductionOn most modern motorcycles factory speedometer over-reading could be as high as 10%. So even a modest gearing change can have the speedometer off by 15%. Changing the sprockets will also result in higher odometer reading, decreasing resale value without valid reasons. The SpeedoHealer is an inexpensive, convenient and very simple way to sort these speedo and odo issues
The difference in mileage isn't going to outweigh the fact that it'll be a used track bike.
You can also join RACE at Shannonville which is 1.5 drive from Ajax....just saying.
The mileage isn't a big deal but if it is accurate it's a good way to keep track of service intervals for major items.
I wouldn't touch a 34,000km track bike with a 20ft pole unless it's been rebuilt or I planned on rebuilding it.
The mileage isn't a big deal but if it is accurate it's a good way to keep track of service intervals for major items.
I wouldn't touch a 34,000km track bike with a 20ft pole unless it's been rebuilt or I planned on rebuilding it.
Hmmm, wonder how much mileage is on my 400?
25,000 km street + 19 years x about 12 events per year x about 200 km per event = 70,600 km ... I've been in the engine three or four times over the years ... and I certainly can't say "never down", either ...
25,000 km street + 19 years x about 12 events per year x about 200 km per event = 70,600 km ... I've been in the engine three or four times over the years ... and I certainly can't say "never down", either ...
Ya but, it's really only ridden on the weekends,,"weekend rides with your friends",,, how hard can that be on a bike,,,
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