Dealer makes an final invoice lower price mistake? | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Dealer makes an final invoice lower price mistake?

THMPR, Did you void all the previous ones? Or does signing a new one void the old automatically?

They are insisting on the difference even though they admit it was their mistake. They said they weren't giving up on the money and had sent a registered letter asking for it. Haven't seen the letter yet. Spoke to GM though and he said something like base price on the purchase agreement was wrong, it's not for the vehicle given. I'm thinking...so what, still their mistake. Cops even confirmed if the vehicle and plates on it are in owner/buyer's name it's the buyer's property. Everything else is between the dealership and buyer to work out or go to small claims court.

Looks like the fraudulent charge to my cc might have been reversed now. So it's up to the dealership to try to get the $ another way.
 
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The loss is on the dealer. You have no obligation to them once funds exchanged for an agreed contract.

Happened when my cousins wife got an Accord EXL for the price of a sport ($2k difference in her favour) or something to that affect. The dealer had to eat the difference as they already completed the deal.
 
They threaten court and all that? I'm sure that's all they can try to do. Unless they try to charge someone else's CC. lol
 
They threaten court and all that? I'm sure that's all they can try to do. Unless they try to charge someone else's CC. lol

send them a thank you card and order pizza for the service people
say thank you for the providing us value for our money, I will be sure to tell my friends as well as post on social media
 
send them a thank you card and order pizza for the service people
say thank you for the providing us value for our money, I will be sure to tell my friends as well as post on social media
Kill them with kindness.

Might even save a salesman's job...
 
Learned a bit more about CC conditions. If you have a previous legit transaction with a merchant, anything they post afterwards is considered for a dispute only. You have to prove the charge isn't justified, the merchant doesn't have to do nearly as much. If a charge goes over your limit, the CC company may approve it and then charge you an overage charge. So, the limit isn't really a limit as such, unless it's really low.

The reason a dealership wants you to use a CC for a deposit is so they can charge against it later if they choose, and then it's up to you to try and fight the charge. Even if it's not justified or expressly not approved by yourself or you aren't the purchaser of vehicle...see above.
 
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Learned a bit more about CC conditions. If you have a previous legit transaction with a merchant, anything they post afterwards is considered for a dispute only. You have to prove the charge isn't justified, the merchant doesn't have to do nearly as much. If a charge goes over your limit, the CC company may approve it and then charge you an overage charge. So, the limit isn't really a limit as such, unless it's really low.

The reason a dealership wants you to use a CC for a deposit is so they can charge against it later if they choose, and then it's up to you to try and fight the charge. Even if it's not justified or expressly not approved by yourself or you aren't the purchaser of vehicle...see above.
With dispute, when i was working them back in the day

Originally the dispute, if it has SOME grounds get the charge reversed. THen if the merchant refutes with their merchant services, the charge gets "charged back" to the card until some stronger evidence is shown.

Basically you and your credit card issuer are the prosecutors and the merchant and their merchant services are the defendant.

In this case...since the bill is not in your name... id find it hard to actually give YOU the charge. Unless you signed something indicating that that card could be used to pay any other fees (and they were to provide that)... but i doubt it.

Anyhow GOOD LUCK
 
Learned a bit more about CC conditions. If you have a previous legit transaction with a merchant, anything they post afterwards is considered for a dispute only. You have to prove the charge isn't justified, the merchant doesn't have to do nearly as much. If a charge goes over your limit, the CC company may approve it and then charge you an overage charge. So, the limit isn't really a limit as such, unless it's really low.

The reason a dealership wants you to use a CC for a deposit is so they can charge against it later if they choose, and then it's up to you to try and fight the charge. Even if it's not justified or expressly not approved by yourself or you aren't the purchaser of vehicle...see above.

So.. right now, where are you at?
I understand that you are still disputing the charge? Or was it reversed already?
 
Looks like charge was only a "hold/pre-authorization", but it's been released. They did try to charge it on the card though...3 times. Card cancelled.

What does
Inconsistent Terms: In the event that any of the terms and conditions of this agreement are inconsistent with the terms and conditions of any Conditional Sale Agreement between Purchaser and Dealer, the terms of such Conditional Sale Agreement shall control.
mean?

To me sounds like if you signed a Conditional Sale Agreement and the Vehicle Purchase Agreement is wrong then the Conditional Sale Agreement holds up. But since the only thing signed was a Vehicle Purchase Agreement, they are SOL. Or does a previous Vehicle Purchase Agreement count as a Conditional Sale Agreement?
 
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send them a thank you card and order pizza for the service people
say thank you for the providing us value for our money, I will be sure to tell my friends as well as post on social media

:lmao:
 
I'm not new at car buying, but I just don't get how dealerships can A/ mess up purchase contracts multiple times, B/ Offer a price that's good for "right now" , they wont even give overnite to consider the deal, C/ Give you a delivery time and not have your car ready , its been a week, wtf?

and that's Honda, twice, VW, GM, oddly best experience was Ford. Milton Honda in particular was despicable. My transaction there was worth a class on how to not be a salesman or sales manager, or CFO.
 
old school sales pressure tactics, etc. That's the problem with negotiable things. Games can be played. Has been working for them a long time.
 
Tell people to beat them to to the punch and say...please do not tell me this deal is only good for tonight. I hope you are not one of those dealers if not I have to go elsewhere...lol

I really don't get ppl, stop being lazy

This is how you buy a car in 1 hour or less.
1. know the car you want, features etc...research
1.5 test drive it of course for a good 30 minutes with stereo off so you can listen

2. sit down, take out credit card, take out drivers lic, place on the saleperson desk (face down)
3. tell them don't touch them
4. look at a clock or start the timer on your phone tell them they have 45 minutes and 15 minutes to get the paperwork done
5. know your final price- hold on that - be ready to walk away, get up say thanks, pickup your cards and LEAVE
6. if the price is $40k and you want to pay $37k out the door they will start at $40k...You start at $32k- see how they respond--yes you could be in the insulting range BUT it's your money so who gives a crap how they feel
7. they will come back with a number now and you can feel them out let's say they come down to $39k now you go up to $33k and keep going until you get to $37k or lower

8. if they say we can only do $38k then you say no problem, then you want actual rust proofing, snow tires, and paint protection, fabric protection...make them give you stuff to make up for the increased price

9. done and done, get your price close- say you will close the deal now that your offer is only valid until you leave

10. should be point 1 go to a dealer other than the one you want to deal with---low ball the hell out of them, that will give you the pain point as to where they will go---use that number as a guide for the other dealers
 
Subaru Brampton drove me mental when I bought my WRX. Took almost 5 hours even though I had already picked the car before I got there, went for a quick test drive, and then only spent maybe 10 minute negotiating price. Sales guy just kept talking and talking.
 
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-D- point 5 is where I think a problem might arise, I've yet to find a dealer in the last 30yrs that would get to the negotiation point without a CC down, it sort of stops people just wandering in to play outsmart the salesguy.
Any body else been able to negotiate a price on a NEW car without a "security" deposit?
 
Yup I have never given and won't give a cc for deposit until after the deal is done. I would walk if asked for a cc and have never been asked for one.

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A few ago we bought my wife a new car. When we started talking to the salesman he asked for a credit card just to show we were serious. I told him if me sitting here wasn't serious enough for him, then I would take my business elsewhere. He said fair enough, and we proceeded negotiating and making a deal.

I would never ever give a dealer my credit card.
 
-D- point 5 is where I think a problem might arise, I've yet to find a dealer in the last 30yrs that would get to the negotiation point without a CC down, it sort of stops people just wandering in to play outsmart the salesguy.
Any body else been able to negotiate a price on a NEW car without a "security" deposit?

The last car I bought, I called the sales rep, worked out a number over the phone, then went in and signed the paperwork. Filling out the paperwork was painful as always and still took over an hour with a few missteps along the way, but the numbers matched. Sales likes to talk about monthly payments, I negotiated and like to think of total cost.
 
-D- point 5 is where I think a problem might arise, I've yet to find a dealer in the last 30yrs that would get to the negotiation point without a CC down, it sort of stops people just wandering in to play outsmart the salesguy.
Any body else been able to negotiate a price on a NEW car without a "security" deposit?

Wha...? My wife and I bought a new car (Hyundai) 3 years ago and at no point before or during the negotiation did they ask for a credit card or other form of deposit. Her parents bought another car (Toyota) a year later and it didn't come up then either. If any dealer presumed to ask for money before we agreed on a price, I would leave.


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