fuel efficient car for towing, etc.? | Page 4 | GTAMotorcycle.com

fuel efficient car for towing, etc.?

Can't speak for all brands, but most new auto manufacturers state that they prefer you NOT doing any additional rustproofing.....

on my last 16 year old Japanese sedan which I sold earlier this year, it only had the dealer applied 'rustproofing' from when I bought it in 1998 cos it was the cool thing to do, never touched it since, and not a speck of rust when I sold it.

On my last 2 vehicle purchases, i decided I would be a guinea pig and skipped the rustproofing totally.....
 
Many dealerships will sell you the magic anti-rust box under the hood for >$1000. Run away. I've seen it at mazda dealers and vw.
 
It's called rust warranty, but it's actually perforation warranty. On top of it they have lots of clauses to deny warranty, like blaming rust on a rock chip.
 
While on the rustproofing subject, how messy is krown? It it really dirty to work on the car after?
 
Last Mazda I had, they did an underbody coating. Didn't have the car long enough to see if the initial investment was worth it. Toyota sells a underbody coating too. Checked every 2 years with free touchups. Makes more sense to go with Krown.
 
boooya said:
I work at a toyota dealer.
We sublet our "rust proofing" to krown ;)
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I've heard before that most of the add ons the dealer will try to sell you are just outsourced services marked up by about 100%.
 
unL33T said:
I've heard before that most of the add ons the dealer will try to sell you are just outsourced services marked up by about 100%.
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You're lucky they outsource the work so it gets hopefully done properly....I've worked at a dealer before and 'rustproofing' usually consisted of a guy going underneath the car with a spray can and doing a quick once over...
 
daught said:
While on the rustproofing subject, how messy is krown? It it really dirty to work on the car after?
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I've used Krown for years, great product. The dealer in Milton does a good job of it. It will end up on your driveway, it will run out of crevasses here and there for a week or so after the application. It will make you think your car is on fire if you pull up to a light when you drive it home immediately after the application. Our '02 Liberty had 1 spot of rust directly over the windshield, most likely due to a scratch in the paint or chip.

I just bought a Durango, Milton is too far for me to go (modern Hemi's like fuel) and the dealer in Niagara Falls likes short cuts (spraying the inside of the door skin rather than pulling the plugs and shooting into the cavity). I buy a can of T32 and touch up areas when I change oil (brake and fuel lines, door hinges, etc).
 
daught said:
While on the rustproofing subject, how messy is krown? It it really dirty to work on the car after?
Click to expand...


The Krown will drip for a few days afterwards so you need to avoid parking in your driveway if you don't want it stained. Any time you have to do any work to the underside of your car you will be covered in the stuff. Even months later you will still get covered in the oil, which is good because that means it sticks around.
 
So is there any difference in buying a car now or at the beginning of the year? Different dealer incentives maybe?
 
Plus end of the year. The question is whether there are more incentives for the dealer to sell for less now to fill their year end numbers or if it matters.
 
Riceburner said:
Plus end of the year. The question is whether there are more incentives for the dealer to sell for less now to fill their year end numbers or if it matters.
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'end of the year' for the dealer is their fiscal/model year end. They do the calendar Christmas deals as a marketing thing. Best time to buy a car is the very end/very beginning of a month, and usually around August/September when new models are coming in (so grab an old/current year one).
 
The safety cert doesn't state the type of motor vehicle...


FYI...Ted doesn't do safety on cars.
 
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