Oil change | GTAMotorcycle.com

Oil change

Joe Bass

*probably eating right now*
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Going to attempt my first (doing it myself) oil change on my 750 shadow. Watched some vids, looked easy enough. I used to do oil changes in a lube shop on cars years ago. Just gotten lazy, I guess.
Question is, how concerned should I be to have an extra/ new bolt and washer for the oil pan before attempting? Does anyone just automatically replace them at every oil change?
Also, when I do my change pre-storage, if I do another one before riding:
a) should I even do this?
b) is it okay to keep that filter installed?
Thanks in advance.
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I'm not an expert so my advice is based on my personal preference. I like to do my last oil change just before I store my bike for the winter. But I doubt it makes much of a difference if you change it earlier and ride the bike a few times before storage. I always change my oil filter at the same time as the oil. I also get a new crush washer. The oil pan bolt should fine. I don,t see any reason why you would need to change it. Unless the threads were stripped in which case the oil pan area is most likely stripped. Just make sure not to over torque everything , follow the owners manual for your bike.
 
No need to do one before and after storage that is a waste and not very smart IMHO.
You should change the crush washer but in reality it is good for a few changes.
Change the oil at recommended intervals ride the bike and you will be fine.

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For sure change your oil (shortly) before winter storage. Oil with lots of km's is contaminated by corrosive compounds that isn't good for metal to be sitting in all winter.

any condensation that accumulates over the winter will boil off with the first ride and your oil is still fresh/unused.
 
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remember that after an oil change your manual states that oil is to be replaced after xxx km or x months ;) WHICH EVER COMES FIRST. Also keep in mind that your new oil will be contaminated by the old oil so dont bother saying it's fresh etc etc. Engineers and millions of $ went into that RnD. /popcorn
 
I've always changed oil on a schedule of every X kilometers regardless of when that happens relative to the winter storage period, and I've never had anything blow apart or seize up because of that ...
 
Thanks everyone. I will pick up a few crush washers before so that I have them on hand.
And I won't redo the change in spring, I will just stay on the time/ km schedule.

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Be careful torquing the drain plug as it threads into cast aluminum most likely, and won't take nearly as much torque as a steel car drain pan.

I learned the hard way and got good with helicoil inserts. :'(

Change the filter as well, it's worth the $13 dollars, isn't it?
 
Be careful torquing the drain plug as it threads into cast aluminum most likely, and won't take nearly as much torque as a steel car drain pan.

I learned the hard way and got good with helicoil inserts. :'(

Change the filter as well, it's worth the $13 dollars, isn't it?

Do not, I repeat, do not tighten the pan bolt without a proper torque wrench. Take this ^^^^^ advice.
 
Didn't even think about the torque wrench. I'll keep an eye on crappy tire for a sale.
And I agree, $13 for a filter ($9 on sale), may as well change it too.
Thanks guys.
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I've never used a torque wrench, have yet to crack/strip an oil pan. Torquing it by feel works for me.
 
I used to think the same way.

I was doing an oil change on the KLR prior to touring down the Blue Ridge Parkway, and spent a harried afternoon sourcing a kit in the correct size, drilling into my crankcase with a grease coated drill bit and agonizing over how long the helicoil would need to be to fit into the pan. I got it wrong and oil seeped out for an hour instead of taking minutes.

Your mileage may vary.

I'm very careful these days as I have no wish to repeat the process.
 
Make sure the old oil filter o-ring comes off, don't double-stack by mistake.


Does this type of thing happen often? Was not even aware of this. Thanks.
 
Does this type of thing happen often? Was not even aware of this. Thanks.

It can happen, but not super common. When your installing the new filter, wipe off any old oil off of the filter housing flange (where the filter screws onto) and take your finger and dip it in fresh oil. Coat the seal of your new filter in a film of oil and then install as per the instructions on the filter. Tighten only by hand. If the filter says tighten till contact and then 1/2 turn, do it. Not 3/4 of a turn, not a full turn just 1/2, Or you will never get that sucker back off again.
 
Make sure the old oil filter o-ring comes off, don't double-stack by mistake.
Hahaha! My brother-in-law did exactly that and had his only roadside tow in years! He caught it in time to prevent engine damage, thankfully.
 
Went to get a torque wrench at crappy tire this evening, and all they had were ones that were $75 and up, and the size of my leg.
Am I able to get a smaller & cheaper one somewhere?
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Went to get a torque wrench at crappy tire this evening, and all they had were ones that were $75 and up, and the size of my leg.
Am I able to get a smaller & cheaper one somewhere?
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Princess Auto
 
A torque wrench is one of those tools you don't cheap out on. Do your research and buy a quality wrench. I have nothing but good things to say about my Armstrong torque wrench.
 

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