Problem with steering bearings, GSXR fork swap | GTAMotorcycle.com

Problem with steering bearings, GSXR fork swap

Brian84

Brian84

Well-known member
As part of my SV650 streetfighter build, posted here, I had replaced the forks with GSXR ones along with a tapered roller bearing for the top, and the original ball bearings for the bottom. I had tapped the race in a bit too hard, and ended up scratching the edge of the race slightly, as seen here:
attachment.php


It was riding fine, so I didn't think anything of it, until a few weeks ago when the steering started to feel loose. I tried a few times to get the steering set properly, but I couldn't get it set right. I was able to torque the steering stem nuts down and get a good feel, but when I put the triple clamp on and torqued it to spec, for some reason I got a tight spot. I tried this a couple of times, and I kept getting the same tight spot. I even tried loosening up the bearings even more and tightening the top clamp, and even if the steering felt too loose overall, I had a bit of drag in the same spot.

I finally removed the whole front end and took out the bearings and sure enough the top bearing has some markings in it from where the race was scratched. Now it's pretty clear I should replace the whole top bearing and try this again. I just thought it was strange since the bearings felt fine originally, and only after trying to re-tighten them did I have problems. Also, it's strange that tightening the triple clamp seemed to increase the drag in one spot. Any thoughts?
 
Brian84 said:
As part of my SV650 streetfighter build, posted here, I had replaced the forks with GSXR ones along with a tapered roller bearing for the top, and the original ball bearings for the bottom. I had tapped the race in a bit too hard, and ended up scratching the edge of the race slightly, as seen here:
attachment.php


It was riding fine, so I didn't think anything of it, until a few weeks ago when the steering started to feel loose. I tried a few times to get the steering set properly, but I couldn't get it set right. I was able to torque the steering stem nuts down and get a good feel, but when I put the triple clamp on and torqued it to spec, for some reason I got a tight spot. I tried this a couple of times, and I kept getting the same tight spot. I even tried loosening up the bearings even more and tightening the top clamp, and even if the steering felt too loose overall, I had a bit of drag in the same spot.

I finally removed the whole front end and took out the bearings and sure enough the top bearing has some markings in it from where the race was scratched. Now it's pretty clear I should replace the whole top bearing and try this again. I just thought it was strange since the bearings felt fine originally, and only after trying to re-tighten them did I have problems. Also, it's strange that tightening the triple clamp seemed to increase the drag in one spot. Any thoughts?
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Are you 100% sure you tapped the bearing races in all the way? What are you using to drive them in? If they don't bottom out 100% flat in the birds they will not operate properly with right spots
 
Replace both bearings while you are at it. Tapered on both ends :)
 
silverbullet132 said:
Replace both bearings while you are at it. Tapered on both ends :)
Click to expand...

I think I will ;)

Just ordered a set of all balls from fs-motorcycle today. Now to what I'm not looking forward to, knocking off the old races! Picked up a set of brass drifts today, so I'll be giving that a try.
 
Brian84 said:
I think I will ;)

Just ordered a set of all balls from fs-motorcycle today. Now to what I'm not looking forward to, knocking off the old races! Picked up a set of brass drifts today, so I'll be giving that a try.
Click to expand...

Brass is too soft for this, you will destroy the punch.....I use hard steel to punch them out and I have custom made SS drivers I had made for me on a lathe for driving them in...Its much easier to drive them in straight and all the way flush on the bottom with an actual bearing driver....
 
JohnnyP636 said:
Brass is too soft for this, you will destroy the punch.....I use hard steel to punch them out and I have custom made SS drivers I had made for me on a lathe for driving them in...Its much easier to drive them in straight and all the way flush on the bottom with an actual bearing driver....
Click to expand...

Yeah I tried a couple of hits with the brass punch and learned it was too soft pretty quickly. Luckily I bought some hard steel punches as well, and used those to drive the races out. It actually was much easier than I thought it would be.

I looked at the top bearing race seat on the headstock, and it looks a bit burred on the inside. Is it possible I drove the race in hard enough that I damaged the seat, and the race was sitting on an angle? It would explain the bearing not feeling right. It was definitely seated all the way in. Here's a picture, after I drove the race out, although it probably doesn't help much:

IMG_20140910_184458.jpg
 
How do you hammer the new bearing in? I was gonna buy a big-*** chrome socket at Princess auto and hit that with a rubber mallet, but I assume there's a better tool for that purpose?
 
don't use a rubber mallet, it bounces off and does not really drive the race in, but yes something that will fit the same diameter as the race is the option to use unless you have a press and can press in the bearing....

when striking be square, don't hit one side or the other but square on, if you have to, put a piece of straight metal bar across the part your driving the race in with and hit dead center, slow and steady is the best way, or lighter taps around and around, so as to drive the race down as evenly as possible, always hit only the outside portion of the race and or bearing...

.
 
So I installed new races in the frame , this time by pressing them rather than hammering then in.

I also removed the lower race from the stem, by cutting a slot in it carefully, then cracking the race with a chisel.

Now I'm stuck with installing the lower race onto the stem. I used the old race to press on the new one, but I tried using a long pvc pipe I had lying around to wack it in place, and it won't budge. Should I get a metal pipe and try it with that?

cb68a324768c315e69c3d367a70208ef.jpg
 
Brian84 said:
So I installed new races in the frame , this time by pressing them rather than hammering then in.

I also removed the lower race from the stem, by cutting a slot in it carefully, then cracking the race with a chisel.

Now I'm stuck with installing the lower race onto the stem. I used the old race to press on the new one, but I tried using a long pvc pipe I had lying around to wack it in place, and it won't budge. Should I get a metal pipe and try it with that?

cb68a324768c315e69c3d367a70208ef.jpg
Click to expand...

I'd freeze the stem to shrink it a bit
 
Cool the stem in the freezer and warm the bearing in the oven (about 200 degrees F)... then use your PVC pipe to drive the bearing on.
 
I froze the steering stem and the bearing went on quite easily without warming it. Make sure you have proper gloves to handle it if you do heat it though. Freezing the stem and using the PVC should get it on there without issue.
 
Brian84 said:
So I installed new races in the frame , this time by pressing them rather than hammering then in.

I also removed the lower race from the stem, by cutting a slot in it carefully, then cracking the race with a chisel.

Now I'm stuck with installing the lower race onto the stem. I used the old race to press on the new one, but I tried using a long pvc pipe I had lying around to wack it in place, and it won't budge. Should I get a metal pipe and try it with that?

cb68a324768c315e69c3d367a70208ef.jpg
Click to expand...

I use a little shop press for that, either using a steel tube, or upside down with an old bearing with the ID ground out a little larger so it does not get stuck on as well...You have to jig it up properly if you use the tube methond dont put pressure on the bottom of the fork clamps or you can bend/warp the triple. And there will not be enough solid support for it to go on before flexing, make sure the pressure is distributed to the bottom of the stem only
 
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