"Crunchy" Brake Lever | GTAMotorcycle.com

"Crunchy" Brake Lever

JonHorv

JonHorv

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Hey all! I'm getting a "crunchy" feeling in my brake lever with "steps" in brake resistance. My mechanic feels it's a problem with my master cylinder. Has anyone had a similar problem?

Sorry if it's been posted, I couldn't find a thread on this.
 
That's what I'm hoping, I'll be giving it all some TLC this weekend.

Thanks for the tip Riceburner, I'm compiling a list of all the smaller things I hope it is, and if it's still an issue afterwards, then I'll have to bite the bullet.
 
I assume there is no fluid leak. Either the seal in the master is binding on the piston (unusual for a 5 yr old bike), or the pads have dust accumulated and are not sliding on the holders.
Are the pads OEM?
Is the lever returning to full position?

you can rebuild the master with a $20 kit.
 
No leak, pads are in good shape but not sure about OEM. (5th owner in 5 years is always fun). Lever action is otherwise unaffected, returns to full without problem and under it's own pressure. It's only on closing the lever that I feel the crunchies. Definitely seems like something binding.

I'm going to bleed lines, check pads and lube assembly. Fingers crossed that does it.

CafeRay said:
I assume there is no fluid leak. Either the seal in the master is binding on the piston (unusual for a 5 yr old bike), or the pads have dust accumulated and are not sliding on the holders.
Are the pads OEM?
Is the lever returning to full position?

you can rebuild the master with a $20 kit.
Click to expand...

How difficult a job would that be? Fairly straight forward? I'm pretty green as a rider.

Thanks for all the help so far!
 
Just to clarify....does the lever feel the same way riding vs stopped? Crunchy is a interesting term....I describe my front brake stopping performance as crunchy but that has to do more with crunchy or knotchy fork diving.
 
Brant Bandit said:
Just to clarify....does the lever feel the same way riding vs stopped? Crunchy is a interesting term....I describe my front brake stopping performance as crunchy but that has to do more with crunchy or knotchy fork diving.
Click to expand...

hey Brant Bandit! It feels the same both while riding and when stopped. While the bike is hot and when it's dead cold. The braking force applied feel knotchy as well, as you describe. I'll apply force to the lever, it comes back a step, sticks a bit, more pressure jumps to the next knotch in, while the pads follow the same pattern simultaneously.
 
Interesting....you've got me thinking about my brakes a bit more now. I was thinking that I should upgrade my fork springs and put in a heavier oil....never noticed crunchiness in my lever....I'll have to really pay attention to it on my way home tonight.

How long have you had this bike? Is this a new issue that you didn't have before?
 
I've had it since April of this year. I don't recall it being a problem when I bought it, as I hope I would've noticed such a thing. It's likely within the last 2 months or so. It hasn't resulted in a loss of brake power, it's just unevenly applying. I tend to favor my rear brake in most long stops now.
 
During very very short runs. I think it's time to get her rebuilt though, brakes are one of the things you don't wanna short change...
 
Riceburner said:
Pivot points clean and lubed?
Click to expand...


After cleaning and lubing the assembly the problem is MUCH improved and I've finally got the rebuild parts for the end of the season. Thanks for the help everyone!
 
take the brake lever out and you will likely see road grime and other crap (leaves)
previous owners might have stored outside and or rode in the rain a lot.

light grease on the pivot points, some brakes have a gold color insert to allow the lever to slide smoothly, see if yours is there

wd40 is not grease

also your cable might need lubing and possible replacement
 
I had a high mileage car where the pads had these little tabs that were supposed to slide on part of the caliper. The caliper was rusted to high hell so the pads would move inward toward the rotor when you applied them, and then just stay there while the plunger thing behind them pulled back. A quick file and some lube and it was good as new. No idea if anything similar could be happening with you but figured I'd mention it.
 
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