enclosed cargo trailer | GTAMotorcycle.com

enclosed cargo trailer

ifiddles

Well-known member
so my fiancé and I picked up an SUV and want to purchase a 6x10 enclosed cargo trailer...there are a ton of them on kijiji, used and new from the dealers...I don't mind paying up to $3500 for one new, but wanted to see if anyone here has one and if so, which make/model, where you purchased it and what your thoughts are on it...trying to decide between screwed and screwless (no jokes please)...engineered flooring versus plywood...rounded versus flat top...oh so many decisions...thanks to all who reply!!!
 
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You should probably include shape of nose and type of door to your list of questions.
 
actually, we know we want a V-nosed trailer with obviously a ramp rear door and an RV access door on the passenger side...but thanks for the feedback... :)
 
You get what you pay for. and what you'd be using this for also...

First off - what kind of SUV ? (what motor in it)?

1. V-Nose & Smooth Top = cuts through the air better.
2. Most 6x10 V-Nose will have about 12" length at the centre.

3. Aluminum Frame vs. Steel Frame. (rust issues)
4. Square channel frame vs. C-Channel frame. - Square is stronger & heavier. Most aluminmium trailers are square channel.
5. Plywood vs. Composite. Ply would eventually rot from the inside and out. Composite will never.

6. Dexter axles - SINGLE vs. TANDAM. The Tandem will sway way less than the single axle.
6. Axle LOCATION - this is key!

7 . RAMP DOOR rear - with the piano e hinge'd extra - so it is will be easy to load low profile bikes.
8. Vents – when it gets hot, the trailer Is an OVEN.
9. Screw vs. Screwless exterior. The screwless looks much better, but with screw type – you can put in a new panel easily. Screwless is better for large decals etc.

If money is no object, I’d get V-NOSE, SMOOTH TOP, ALUMINIMUM FRAME, TANDEM AXLE, COMPOSITE DECKING, LED LIGHTS w/ Interior LEDs. RAMP REAR.
 
Here are a few pictures of mine...its a 6x10 V-Nose, Aluminium screw exterior, its from VIA trailer. Ramp door, and side door. Love it.

sorry about the messy strap job.
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thanks for the info...what is the best position for the axle? I heard a 60/40 is a good placement...
 
thanks for the info...what is the best position for the axle? I heard a 60/40 is a good placement...

It's about how much weight you have on the tongue. Mine is about 60/40 or so . Load most of the stuff over the axle.

So it has a few hundred lbs on the tongue, but mostly over the axle.
 
depending on how many miles your going to pull it, v nose vs flat, you may not see a huge gain in economy and it depends what is punching the hole in the wind (tow vehicle) in front of the trailer. Look at overall weight to be carried, two axles equals twice as many tires and bearings to deal with and rolling resistance (mileage) . There isn't a whole lot to go wrong , but there are some deals. Lowes had contractor trailers parked out front with a ramp door rear, man door on the side, I think 4k ish new. If the difference between new and somebody elses "problem" was a grand .........
 
Just some food for thought, I went with barn doors so I can easily access the trailer while it's parked in my driveway. I park the trailer less than 6' from my garage door so if I had a ramp door I would have to use the man door only. I had a ramp from putting the bike in the truck so I just roll it up that way.
 
Tandem axle requires electric brakes, which means you would have to install a brake controller in your SUV. If you park it a lot, expect to replace seized brakes regularly. Also, because of the higher weight capacity, an annual safety inspection (aka yellow sticker) would be required.
I have an 18x8 tandem and a 12x6 single axle, and the 12 footer doesn't give me nearly as much grief as the tandem. If I were you I would stick with a single axle and just make sure it's weight is distributed properly when driving. You shouldn't have much sway as long as there's more weight in front of the axle than behind it.
 

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