Tool Borowing... 1/4 or 3/8 inch torque wrench anyone? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Tool Borowing... 1/4 or 3/8 inch torque wrench anyone?

Jimsun

Well-known member
Hey guys,

Im putting my bike engine together and I'd like to know if someone here has a 1/4 or a 3/8 inch torque wrench i can borrow.

Minimum range is 50 inch-lbs or 5.5 ft-lbs

Im looking to see if someone has one that has been certified recently (2 years tops). If not, what would you recommend thats not too over the top and still affordable. ie. snap on matco macco

Im willing to put collateral in money or whatever you deem worth it that's is of equal value at most.
 
Dial-type wrenches are only $25 and are accurate enough for occasional use, otherwise, about $100 and a good tool to own.
 
I dont mind dial type but the accuracy is the key. I cant trust a torque wrench that hasnt been certified regardless of the brand. . Im putting my cb550 engine together. Im leaning on getting a certified snap-on since the difference is within $15 of most the higher end brands
 
I am in oshawa. I have from princess auto it works well. It is dial. You can borrow if you like


"If i was educated, I'd be a damn fool"
 
I dont mind dial type but the accuracy is the key. I cant trust a torque wrench that hasnt been certified regardless of the brand. . Im putting my cb550 engine together. Im leaning on getting a certified snap-on since the difference is within $15 of most the higher end brands

I've never had a torque wrench lose accuracy. They are all calibrated when new.
 
Snapon has a really nice digital 3/8 that is only 600 bucks. Beeps when torque is correct, has led indicator that changes color when near torque, has preset torques that you can program. Very nice unit a must have.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
 
How do you know?
Obviously, you think the factory settings are good to infinity?
Yikes.

Never stripped a bolt or had one loosen after torquing. Unless you drop the tool or abuse it, it should stay calibrated.

In a shop with daily use, ok, but not home use.

I'm sure +/- 10 % will not make your bike asplode.
 
Im putting my cb550 engine together. Im leaning on getting a certified snap-on since the difference is within $15 of most the higher end brands

You're working on an old bike. You don't need NASA-like accuracy for torquing.
 
Your criteria seems mighty high for borrowing. Beggars can't be choosers.

How about Canadian Tire Maximum? On sale this week. Perhaps not for the professional, but entirely suitable for a weekend warrior. Comes with your precious certificate of calibration.
 
Your criteria seems mighty high for borrowing. Beggars can't be choosers.

How about Canadian Tire Maximum? On sale this week. Perhaps not for the professional, but entirely suitable for a weekend warrior. Comes with your precious certificate of calibration.

^^^ +1 This.

Borrowing a torque wrench is like borrowing a lover - you never know what you're going to get. My Mastercraft Maximum torque wrenches are re - certified annually (my employer pays). The guys that bought Princess Auto stuff are SOL, as the company that does the re certification won't touch them.

FWIW, selecting the 'right tool for the job' counts - dial type wrenches tend to be more accurate at the mid point of their range.
 
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Your criteria seems mighty high for borrowing. Beggars can't be choosers.


No no i think there's a miscommunication. Im willing to give full collateral, like i stated previously, if that's what the owner is comfortable with. I was never borrowing for free, like what you're saying, and i'd never let any stranger borrow my tools for free either (unless you're my friend or neighbour down the street). I have a few specialty tools that I have and willing to lend if i was given a few hundred bucks for full collateral. My workplace has a torque wrench that gets certified yearly which i could borrow on weekends. The problem is that the range on that torque wrench starts at 100 inch-ft
How about Canadian Tire Maximum? On sale this week. Perhaps not for the professional, but entirely suitable for a weekend warrior. Comes with your precious certificate of calibration.
Sorry if that was offensive. Im just messing cuz hes saying that engine work for old bikes doesn't require the same love as one would for new bikes. That shows that there are still people that treat machines like some piece of scrap metal. It's also the reason why some people who do their own DIY or give false knowledge to somebody sometimes end up hurt or worst, dead, because they think their knowledge and experience, for some dumb reason, surpasses all of the engineers that spent thousands of hours designing and testing the machine we love and trust.


I should ask elsewhere instead as this isn't place to ask :(

Sry all
 
^^^ +1 This.

Borrowing a torque wrench is like borrowing a lover - you never know what you're going to get. My Mastercraft Maximum torque wrenches are re - certified annually (my employer pays). The guys that bought Princess Auto stuff are SOL, as the company that does the re certification won't touch them.

FWIW, selecting the 'right tool for the job' counts - dial type wrenches tend to be more accurate at the mid point of their range.


I heard too many horror stories with the maximum having random reading during calibration or not clicking when needed hence a snapped head. Have you used it on 6/8 mm heads yet?
 
Most torque wrenches I've used to build engines don't make a "click" sound. You have to feel for when it "clicks".
 
My Princess Auto torque wrench came with a signed calibration test.

Ive tested PA torque wrenches and not all clicked when it was suppose to when tested with a certified torque wrench. Luckily PA holds a satisfactory guarantee. If I wasn't going to use it for the engine then i wouldn't mind using a maximum or a PA ceretified.
 
If you are serious about buying snap-on, look at CDI. They are owned by snap-on and I am pretty sure they make the snap-on torque wrenches. CDI is one of the brands I use and trust.

Borrowing one is iffy even for name brand. It depends so much on how they are treated. One example, click-micometer types MUST be stored set to zero, if not the spring gets weak and they lose calibration...
 
I heard too many horror stories with the maximum having random reading during calibration or not clicking when needed hence a snapped head. Have you used it on 6/8 mm heads yet?

I have and do, no issues. I also store them at zero in their cases in a drawer of my tool box.
 

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