Slipping Clutch | GTAMotorcycle.com

Slipping Clutch

LoneRonin

LoneRonin

Well-known member
SO, full disclosure.

I was riding to Mississauga from Collingwood and had to take a huge leak but kept on riding til a little bit before Barrie. I pulled off on a rural deserted side street to relieve myself. I jumped right off like an idiot and didn't realize there was a slight decline...I literally watched the bike roll forward off the stand and fall. NO damage to the bodywork, a lil scrape on the bar end but the ****ing adjustable clutch lever snapped off. Seems like right where the adjuster is, is the weakpoint.

I wasn't just going to sit there and said **** it, keep on riding. So I popped it into first and went off clutchless shifting all the way through Barrie, having to downshift hard at lights, then putting it in neutral giving it gas and popping it into first to get going again...I did this all the way til I got onto the 400, more clutchless shifts but these were at speed and relatively smooth upshifts. Once I got off the highway it was a pain in the *** again, luckily I didn't have too far to ride.

I got out riding on Sunday and notice the clutch is slipping past 9k rpms and 120 km/h...pain in the *** because a 250 has to be redlined every gear just to have some fun. I google symptoms and keep get "glazed clutch" burnt clutch etc...

So what exactly got glazed?? The friction plates or steel plates? I also read if you ride normal it can fix itself by burning off the glaze...(whatever the **** that is), I doubt the actual material on the friction plates got worn significantly just because of that. Can I just pull the plates and scrub em down with a fine grit or scotchbrite and remove the glaze??
 
Maybe your clutch cable needs to be readjusted. A glazed clutch plate is only possible if you've changed oil type/grade etc eg car engine oil vs bike wet clutch engine oil.
if it slips at higher rpm or when you give it a good twist and this hasn't happened before, then your clutch line needs adjusting.
 
I'd say if that doesn't fix it, check your clutch plate pressure springs. They could need an adjustment with all the abuse.
 
Jimsun said:
Maybe your clutch cable needs to be readjusted. A glazed clutch plate is only possible if you've changed oil type/grade etc eg car engine oil vs bike wet clutch engine oil.
if it slips at higher rpm or when you give it a good twist and this hasn't happened before, then your clutch line needs adjusting.
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hmmm, that's a possibility considering I switched back to the OEM lever. I did adjust the cable at the lever end because I like a tight clutch pull and that how it is right now...

I will adjust it from both ends and see how that goes.
 
take your plates out, if the steels have any hot spots or bluing/burning on them they are done. People media blast them but that gives them texture so it will work but they will then soon after start wearing out your friction plates.

Id do the steels and frictions as a set to start fresh with an all new clutch, but cheap people get away with just steels in most cases when they are burnt, warped, and or glaszed
 
A whole clutch will cost me around 100 bucks so not too bad...seems easy enough to replace myself.

I did notice the plunger thingy behind the clutch lever has about a mm or two broken off the end, that shouldn't be causing any issues right?? All I was able to gather is that its the clutch safety switch...

13adjuster2-_annotate.jpg
 
Some bikes require a small play at the lever. If its really tight then its probably somewhat engaging. Which is why your clutch is slipping. Try loosening the lever first before doing bigger things. Thats why they say check if the computer is connected to the outlet or check the fuse if your bike doesnt start. Little things first.
 
Jimsun said:
Some bikes require a small play at the lever. If its really tight then its probably somewhat engaging. Which is why your clutch is slipping.
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Disengaging.
 
VFR.CBR said:
That cable end doesn't look completely healthy.
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+1 looks like it's starting to fray, should be replaced sooner than later
 
not my bike...just a picture off google so you guys could visualize my gibberish.

Oh yea...it fixed itself. I just loosened the cable fully at both ends and readjusted as recommend then I went for a ride and didn't notice much slippage, got out in the country area and no slipping. Did hard acceleration runs and rpms and speed was rising consistently. Bike felt kinda slow...but I was probably being paranoid because its just a little ****ing 250 anyways.

So it seems all is good...I just wonder if it was the adjustment, because it feels just the same in regards to pull and stiffness, or the riding??
 
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Yeah, you're probably fine then. TBH I was a little skeptical you had glazed the clutch because it takes a lot of heat & abuse (e.g. mad stuntaz) to get to that point. If it feels like it's working I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Based on what happened, it sounds like you just had it adjusted so there was a bit of tension still on the cable when the clutch is released, you just need to make sure there is about a minimum 1/8" play in the cable to be certain you are getting full spring pressure on the plates.
 
Walms said:
Based on what happened, it sounds like you just had it adjusted so there was a bit of tension still on the cable when the clutch is released, you just need to make sure there is about a minimum 1/8" play in the cable to be certain you are getting full spring pressure on the plates.
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My friend bought a track bike dirt cheap because "it needed a new tranny." ... "How do you know it's not the clutch??" ... "cause I just put a new one in and it's doing the same thing, no drive in any gear". 30 seconds of freeplay adjustment later, boom, flawless. lol :)
 
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