Europe 2013 - 13 day loop through the Dolomites, Alps and Vercors

Just finished wrapping up our trip on another forum, and wanted to share with my fellow GTAM members.

It wasn't long after returning from our first European adventure to the Alps in September of 2012 - See: Europe - 9 Countries in 10 Days (From England to the Alps and Back) - before my then girlfriend (now wife ) started planning our next, longer, and even more incredible trip that we'd set out for one year later in September of 2013. A new itinerary + another rider, my old man (as they say), would join in the adventure!

This time around, it was all about planning an awesome loop around the Alps. For that, we'd need to find a great city near the Alps with a good deal on two adventure bike rentals, and the helpful advice of fellow ADV riders for the best routes to take. Munich, Germany would fit the bill perfectly and adding the festivities of Octoberfest to the end of our trip, and two awesome Triumphs (An Explorer XC and an 800 XC), made it a no brainer.

The Route:

We'd take off from Munich, Germany and head through the Alps, passing through the Dolomites in Italy, which would result in a rider down and a broken foot on Day 2. But that wouldn't stop us, we'd make our way (via the Alps) to the our furthest point West - the beautiful gorges/cliff-side roads in the Vercors of France. From there we'd continue back to the Route Des Grande Alps and then head back East towards Munich, in what would be THE best ride we've had yet (excluding the rider down part of course)! The loop was about 3,200km total.


The Riders:


Megan and yours truly, me (Erik) on the Explorer XC.


My dad, John on the matching explorer 800 XC.

Some Preview Photos:












We were well equipped with 2 action cameras (mounted front and back) that would capture the action of each days ride, and my Nikon DSLR. Stay tuned for a heck of a lot of pics and our daily ride videos!

Day 1

Day 1: Munich, Germany to Arabba, Italy


Click HERE for a more detailed view of our GPS tracks in Google Maps.

We've got a long day planned for our first leg of the trip, we're heading from Munich, through Austria and landing in the Dolomites for the night. We'd been told the Dolomites would be a highlight of our trip, and having been so close by last year (visiting Stelvio Pass), we were stoked to be heading there!


Nothing like starting the morning packing on the showroom floor of a Triumph dealership. We got a few puzzled looks. :lol3


Out front our XC's are loaded up, pointed in the right direction, and ready to go!


First stop after the long run down the Autobahn and hitting some pretty heavy traffic. Best McDonald's with a view I've seen yet - Somehow they're not quite the same back home.


Arriving in a small town at the edge of Austria.


The mandatory 'Megan with flowers' pic of the day.


Stopping to take off some layers in the warm weather. Perfect weather for our first day out.


Gassing up in Innsbruck, Austria before heading down the Brenner Pass.


A quick pitstop along the way.


Riding the Brenner Pass towards the Dolomites.



Our favourite part of the ride so far, following the winding river road as we enter Italy.


Arriving in the Dolomites, we pass through Corvara, Italy.


The sun's setting, it's getting dark and Corvara is so beautiful at this point I'm thinking we should have stayed here for the night!


But then we arrive in the mountains of Arabba, and looking down at the town we know we've stopped at a great place for the night.

As we rode down, we'd arrive in the central part of town to find that the main road was closed off for a cycling race the next morning. Nevertheless, we'd find our own detour (after a couple attempts) and arrive at our hotel for a much later than planned check-in - what else is new? It seems to be a reoccurring trend almost every day on a trip like this.



We'd head to the one restaurant in town that was still open and have our first taste of Italy - pizza and wine.

Afterwards, it was to the bar by our hotel before calling it a night. There's always something awesome about winding down in a foreign and small town after your first day out on the road, and Arabba was the perfect place for it. We were loving the little we'd seen so far of the Dolomites, and we're looking forward to a full day of exploring more of this incredible part of the world tomorrow!

Day 1 riding video:

[video=vimeo;97654398]http://vimeo.com/97654398[/video]

Day 2

Day 2: Arabba, Italy to Nova Ponente, Italy (The Dolomites)


Click HERE for a more detailed view of our GPS tracks in Google Maps.


Waking up to a beautiful view out the window.


Heading back to our room after breakfast, getting ready to suit up and head out.


Hitting the road with overcast skies, but no rain just yet.


Looking back Arabba in the distance.


Officials stop traffic for the approaching cyclists racing.


After a good 30 minute wait, racers begin to pass by the narrow streets.


The rain begins and we stop to suit up.



Looking up at the Falzarego Pass.






The views of the summit.


Looking back at the Falzarego summit as we work our way down the mountain.



Next up, the beautiful Giau Pass.



Reaching the summit, the clouds roll in heavy on the other side of the mountain.

Day 2: Continued...




Passing through the dense clouds during our descent, Megan spots a heard of sheep.


Getting under the clouds again visibility improves enough to get some more shots in.


Looking back between the valley.



Stopping in the heavy rain for more sheep pics!


Looking towards the next climb ahead, the Fedaia Pass.



Stopping at Lake Fedaia to take in the scene.

From here we'd ride on through the ever narrowing roads, and tighter corners of the italian mountains. The roads would get more and more remote and constantly transition between wet and dry, and just when we're getting into a brisk and steady rhythm… disaster strikes!

Wrapping one of the winding corners, the road is partially wet, but nothing serious… out of nowhere my front begins to wash out and I get on the gas to throttle out, countering the nose dive and evening the bike out. The bike goes into a full drift - the longest drift I've ever been on in my 12 years of street riding (and I ride a superbike back home with my share of drifts!). Megan's screaming as the bike's weaving in and out of the drift, passing an oncoming car in the process!

The bike straightens out and I can hear Megan's sigh of relief that it's all over and we've managed to kept the bike rubber side down. I hit the Sena headset to warn my dad who's following behind us, and just as I do I look in the rear-view mirror and see him on the ground sliding across the asphalt! It's almost surreal, I can't believe it just happened! We jump off the bike and run to his aid. His foot is in a lot of pain as he gets up and hobbles towards the bike. We get the bike upright as quick as possible and off to the side of the road to avoid another accident with oncoming vehicles coming around the blind, slippery corner.

As we lift the bike up, there's a big oil spill around the bike on the asphalt. We weren't sure if it was coming from the bike, but fortunately it wasn't. Looking through the bend the entire corner was smothered in a heavy coat of oil. How Megan and I managed to stay on two wheels, I have no clue!

None of it was caught on video, and with our adrenaline going, I didn't get any pics in either. The damage is relatively minimal - the side-case took the brunt of the damage, but the front brake lever broke clean off… which was not a good scenario. My dad would get back on and ride through the the wet mountain roads with only a rear brake… Thank God for our Sena headsets, I'd travel a good distance ahead of him and give him a heads up when he needs to slow down well in advance.

We had another 50-60km or so originally planned for the day, but we desperately needed to find the first hotel we could. We were in such a secluded area of the mountains it felt like it would be a good while until we passed by anything. Fortunately it wasn't too long before we passed by a hotel and restaurant about 10 km's in… the parking lot filled to the brim with motorcycles - perfect!

We stop and find out there's no rooms available at the Mondschein hotel, but there's a small pension close-by that has a shuttle service to and from this hotel for dinner. Perfect timing, the shuttle driver is at the restaurant and he generously offers for us to follow his van to his Pension - Pensione Villa Mahlknecht.

We arrive at Mahlknect and there's no room large enough to sleep 3, so two fellow riders were generous enough to give up their room for us (given the situation).


Arriving back at the Mondschein hotel for dinner in Nova Ponente, via the shuttle.


A feast awaits us after a looooong day. Lots of wine was consumed that night, most of it going to dad of course.



Everyone is in good spirits considering. Despite the mishap, and the rain, the Dolomites were incredible. The priority for tomorrow (besides the hospital, which dad refused) was to find the closest Triumph dealership to get a replacement brake lever. Over dinner, I found that Bolzano had the part in stock, so instead of heading south as previously planned, we'd make a detour and head north to Bolzano first thing in the morning.

Day 2 riding video:
A wet, but awesome ride through the Italian Dolomites.

[video=vimeo;97660510]http://vimeo.com/97660510[/video]

Day 3

Day 3: Nova Ponente, Italy to Storo, Italy (via our Bolzano detour and Riva Del Garda)


Click HERE for a more detailed view of our GPS tracks in Google Maps.


Catching the morning sunrise.


An old Fiat in front of the clouds.


Today's route would take us on a slight detour, we'd head north to Bolzano, which would turn out to be wine country for the region - a part of the trip pre-planning we'd been looking for, but didn't find… things work out in funny ways sometimes.


Saying goodbye to some great people, the owners of Pensione Villa Mahlknecht. They helped us over breakfast, making calls to Bolzano to make sure we had our parts lined up.


Heading down the mountain in what's looking like a beautiful sunny day ahead of us.




30 km's later we arrive in the bike shop in Bolzano to get the clutch lever. Turns out this dealership rents out bikes, and at good rates too... the new KTM 1190 is up for grabs for those interested. We saved the brochure for a future trip... After yesterday's ride, we knew we'll be back to the Dolomites again, and Bolzano would be the perfect starting point.


Megan's off getting some wine route brochures, dad's finishing up his repair, and I'm taking this shot.



We explore some of Bolzano's wine country. We stop in front of Tramin Winery… Megan's winery of choice. I beautiful place with damn good wine.




Exploring the winery, having some flights, and then picking up a set to bring home to Canada.


We head South and we're back on the originally planned course - the Northern start of the Manghen Pass.


Continuing the climb, we pass a few wandering donkeys. The roads here are absolutely incredible - narrow, lined with the highest trees, and a mix of sweeping corners and hairpins.


Megan and a her new friend.

Day 3: Continued...



Climbing up and out of the forest.



Avoiding a few road blocking cows later, we reach the summit of the breathtaking Manghen Pass, and it's THE perfect place for a lunch stop. Forget lunch in Riva Del Garda as planned, this is the place to be!



Inspired by the menu's front cover...


I go and get the shot.


Looking back at the road we came in on.




Back on the road we head to the South side of the summit, and stop to take in the view of the way down.


Stopping at the bottom of the mountains, before getting on the highway to Riva Del Garda.


Arriving at Lake Riva Del Garda from the North (after passing through Trento).


We ride along the West side of the lake to take in some views before turning around and heading back towards Storo.


Between the mountains.



Stopping for this hidden gem we had programmed into our GPS in the pre-planning stages of the trip.


Looking onwards to Storo, where we'll be staying for the night.

We'd arrive in Storo and it's pretty much a ghost town, no one is walking the streets and hardly any cars can be seen driving about. We stop on the side of the road and I look through the GPS, confused after not passing even one hotel on our way into town. I women in a car pulls up beside us, and says she knows a place we should be able to stay at (it's the off season so many hotels have closed for the year) :eek1. We end up following her to her sister's place.


It's a beautiful newly renovated apartment, with 3 guest rooms. They're surprised to see us and they open it up just for us… The bad news: It's on the top (4th floor) with no elevators, just a steep stairwell and my dad's busted up foot. With no other options, we'd have to make do!

Accident aside, we're loving our time in Italy so far.

Day 3 riding video:

[video=vimeo;97730118]http://vimeo.com/97730118[/video]

Re: Day 3: Continued...

Very nice guys. To bad Dad hurt himself on the second day. How did he make out the rest of the trip???
Can't wait to see the rest of the vid's and pics. (Europe is still in my plans & can't wait )

Re: Day 3: Continued...

NightShadow said:

Very nice guys. To bad Dad hurt himself on the second day. How did he make out the rest of the trip???
Can't wait to see the rest of the vid's and pics. (Europe is still in my plans & can't wait )

Click to expand...

Appreciate it! He was alright considering but in a good amount of pain that's for sure.

Day 4

Day 4: Storo, Italy to Bellano, Italy


Click HERE for a more detailed view of our GPS tracks in Google Maps.


Packing up and having a morning cappuccino before we set out.


The morning view from our room.



Checking in on dad's foot and ankle before helping him suit up, it's not looking good this morning (2 days after the accident). The X-ray, taken once we got home, shows what happened here.


VIP parking this time around. We load up the bikes before heading out.



Passing through the beautiful town of Bagolino.


Stopping to take in the views as we climb the Croce Domini Pass.




Watching the approaching riders follow suit.


This pic sums up how we feel about the Croce Domini Pass.



Making our way down, a wall of clouds creates an awesome backdrop of the valley.


Riders carving through.


Pitstop in the town of Breno. Picking up groceries for lunch and memory cards for the video cameras.

Day 4: Continued...




Passing through the high mountain valleys, we stop to suit up for the wet weather ahead.


The rain comes down like crazy, and we're having a hard time finding a dry place to park for lunch. Not a good day for a picnic, but we've found a dry spot under the trees as we pass through a small town.




Roadside stop as we wind through a never ending series of tight bends on our way to San Giovanni Bianco and the San Marco pass.


On our way up the San Marco pass.


Nice view for a stretch.



Climbing higher and higher towards the summit….


We're just about at the summit of San Marco, when the wall of dark clouds sits in front of us. It's freezing, and there's more rain ahead… not looking good.

We'd pass through the clouds into a rain storm that would provide poor visibility as we ride down the other side. The biggest concern was freezing rain, but fortunately we made it through the clouds unscathed.

From there, it was to Bellano (Lake Como) as the sun sets and a thunderstorm begins. Familiar with this place from last years ride (on Day 5), we'd head for Villa Anita - the incredible B&B we stayed at the year before.

As we arrive in the pouring rain at around 10pm, the kind grandmother and grandfather who run the place, recognized us from last year. They're disappointed to tell us there's not enough rooms available for us, so she calls around to other B&B's, but everyone else is in the region is sold out as well. She ends up setting my father up in a room of the B&B - a small room with a bunk-bed… and then invites Megan and I to stay in the guest room of their own house next door! That'll do! Great people.


Our room for the night.


We hustle down into town to the same Pizzeria as last year… the one nearby place still open for a late dinner. It's good to be back!

Day 4 riding video:

[video=vimeo;97832898]http://vimeo.com/97832898[/video]

Re: Day 4: Continued...

Amazing trip. Thanks for sharing!
And sorry to see the broken bone =(

Re: Day 4: Continued...

Thanks!

Definitely surprised by his recovery. Now many months later, it's like it never happened - no limp whatsoever.

Day 5

Day 5: Bellano, Italy to Barcelonnette, France (along the Route Des Grandes Alpes)


Click HERE for a more detailed view of our GPS tracks in Google Maps.



Waking up to a beautiful day at B&B Villa Anita in Bellano.


All smiles as we finish up breakfast and get ready for a sunny day of riding ahead.


Drying out from yesterday's ride.


Loading up the bikes and we're ready to head towards France and the Route Des Grandes Alps.


A quick rest stop. After riding the coastline of lake Como, we take on a 3 hour ride along the toll highways which would really be the only boring 3 hours of the entire 13 days... so no complaints here . We'd head down towards Milan and then West towards Turin and France.


Filling the tanks and stopping for a break near the border of Italy/France. It's the last of the highways, and it's good to see mountains again.



Our first taste of the Route Des Grandes Alpes - looking down at Briancon, France.


Stopping for lunch in Briancon, using the patio of a restaurant that was closed for the season.


Our view over lunch.


Passing through a small town on our way to Col D'Izoard.

Day 5: Continued...





Reaching the summit of Col D'Izoard and looking back at the road that got us there.



The South side of the summit.


Riding on between the high rocks, alongside a river.


Getting a closer look at the river below.


More great views along the Route Des Grandes Alpes.


The kind of scenery that makes you just stop and take a moment.


Arriving at Col de Vars.



Making our way down the South side of the Col to Vars, which would be our last mountain pass before arriving in Barcelonnette.


Getting one of the last rooms at the Azteca Hotel in Barcelonnette, after a couple previous attempt at nearby spots. It's mid September and Barcelonnette would be completely out of hotel accommodations by dusk… I can't imagine what this place would be like during the summer when tourism is at its peak.


The sun sets in the town, as we head out for dinner.


Finding a place to have dinner would turn out to be a challenge… most of the restaurants are full. We'd meet a fellow rider and glider pilot (cool!), Manfred, over dinner and the four of us would make our way over to a bar to continue chatting over drinks before we called it a night.

The Route des Grandes Alpes has been a dream to ride so far, and tomorrow we'd break from the route (momentarily) as we detoured off to the gorges of the Vercors - A part of the trip we'd been told would be a highlight. Stay tuned!

Day 5 riding video:
One of my personal favourites.

[video=vimeo;97945454]http://vimeo.com/97945454[/video]

Day 6

Day 6: Barcelonnette, France to Rencurel, France (The Vercors)


Click HERE for a more detailed view of our GPS tracks in Google Maps.


Our morning view from the balcony in Barcelonnette. Today we're heading to the much anticipated Vercors which would would be our furthest point West, before we head back East. It's more West than we had originally planned, but as you'll see we were glad we made the trek... to say the least.


Some of Megan's shots from her morning walk through Barcelonnette before we hit the road.


Travelling on the quite roads towards Die, France.


After passing through Gap, we stop and join a few other riders at Le Claps of Luc-en-Diois.


Looking down at the Drome river, we decide it's a nice spot to stop for a roadside picnic.


Entering Die, we stop at Jaillance winery.



We grab a couple bottles for the trip.


Leaving Die, we head North and soon after we hit hairpin turns as we climb Col de Rousset and enter the Vercors. We stop to take in the view alongside a solo rider who's having his lunch. Looks like he's stopped by the winery as well. He even offers us some wine - nice guy.



The view from Col de Rousset.

Day 6: Continued...




Riding Col de la Machine and arriving at Les Gorges De Combe Laval, our first of the Vercor gorges.


Nerves of steel. That takes guts… looking over the side of the road was enough to make me weak in the knees... nevermind stepping over the side to climb up a rock!


I'd meet Bela (Nerves of Steel) and we'd exchange contacts to share each others pics post-trip. The view above was taken by Bela while on the rock.


Megan and I walk through a tunnel to get a different view of the gorge.




The views are spectacular. My favourite kind of roads… made over a hundred years ago, narrow, and wrapping the cliff.





More views of Combe Laval.


The 'don't lean back under any circumstances' shot.


Looking at the North end of Combe Laval… it's a looooooong way down.



Pont-en-Royans, not far from Combe Laval.


The houses, built on the cliff side reminds Megan and I of the old cliff-side houses in Rhonda, Spain.

Day 6: Continued...






On our way to Rencurel (where we'll be staying for the night), we ride the Gorges de la Bourne.


Veering off from de la Bourne for the day, approaching the small town of Rencurel in the distance.


Arriving at La Marronnier Hotel in Rencurel, what would turn out to be one (if not THE) top stay of our trip.


Settling in our room for the night.


Having our 3 course dinner in the Restaurant of La Marronnier - our best dinner of the trip, with one of the best restaurant views too.

More riding along the gorges of the Vercors lie ahead of us tomorrow, as we head to Grenoble and then back to the Route des Grandes Alpes!

Day 6 riding video:

[video=vimeo;98036349]http://vimeo.com/98036349[/video]

Re: Day 6: Continued...

That has got to be the most beautiful area in the whole world, and your photography is fantastic!

Re: Day 6: Continued...

Great shots & write-up - thanks for sharing.

Re: Day 6: Continued...

Brian P said:

That has got to be the most beautiful area in the whole world, and your photography is fantastic!

Click to expand...

I'm convinced it doesn't get any better... maybe just as good, but definitely not better!