Lifes2short....Ride the World | Page 9 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Lifes2short....Ride the World

I'd tend to do Valdez as you will cover off wildlife and glacier at a reasonable cost.
There is no comparison to a dedicated wild life/glacier tour
There is a ferry from Valdez to Anchorage as well if you can time it.

Denali was only so so. Takeetna was nice tho.

It depends on the rain forecast,
There are always showers but a heavy rain in cold ain't gonna be fun no matter where.
How long are you online?
When do you leave from Tok?

You got a very cold and wet front - that really sucks. I'd stay away. This just sucks for the south coast and bloody cold


I'd stick with the sun

Go up and around Denali - anywhere south is really cold and wet.

 
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I'd stick with the sun

Go up and around Denali - anywhere south is really cold and wet.

We saw the same thing and decided to head to Fairbanks for now. We have to pick up a package in Anchorage in a few days so we'll try and take our time getting there.
 
Glacier National Park

Only Glacier National Park stood between us and getting back into Canada. Another stunning ride today up Going-to-the-Sun Road. Saw a mountain goat casually strolling next to the road near the top.






The road would lead us up that mountain…somewhere.



Pretty spectacular sights.














I continue to be amazed by the Crazy Ivan's in these parks, who think that the middle of a switchback is an excellent place to stop their vehicle for a picture, seemingly oblivious to the motorcycle (us) right behind them. Because a leaned over, fully loaded, 2up bike is super easy to stop in the middle of a turn, just like your SUV. Gotta pay attention during tourist season!






Lots of snow remaining up here.









The theme around pretty much every corner here was, “WHOA!"









Some people seem to have tunnel vision around here ;)





We hit more (de)construction traffic on the way down as several miles of road is torn up and being worked on. All dust and dirt except for the sections being watered to keep the dust down which are mud. The Tiger getting a thorough dusting/mudding as a result - more street cred I guess.


We ended up camping in Okotoks, AB (cool name by the way), just south of Calgary. Another spectacular day!
 
Re: Glacier National Park

By now you've likely hit that endless bit of construction south of Tok. My condolences.
Boring in the AWD, messy for the motorcycles..an absolute horror for the bicyclists.
Some were getting lifts from the pilot trucks. I was amazed how many camping cyclists there were - some really in the middlle of nowhere on the Cassiar - a rougher emptier paved highway that connects with the AlCan part way towards Tok. Mostly indigenous lands and just one lone gas stop along the way.....a long way.
It connects in BC with the infamous Highway of Tears where a couple dozen native girls have gone missing....it' a scandal and there were warning signs in the service station not to hitch.

350px-Highway_of_Tears.jpg

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highway_of_Tears_murders

30 km I think that construction went on......took us about 1 1/2 to traverse as there were sections and you had to wait for the pilot truck.
Meanwhile the heavy lifter gravel haulers were winging by at 100 kph right beside us.

There was a crowd of 30 or so Brazilian riders on Harleys ahead of us but the lead rider waived us ahead....
We got into the fuel station then into the border crossing before them.
I can imagine the chaos getting through the border as none but the lead riders spoke English.
Felt sorry for the border guys.....glad we were well away.

Hope at least it was dry for you.
 
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Re: Glacier National Park

By now you've likely hit that endless bit of construction south of Tok. My condolences.
Boring in the AWD, messy for the motorcycles..an absolute horror for the bicyclists.
Some were getting lifts from the pilot trucks. I was amazed how many camping cyclists there were - some really in the middlle of nowhere on the Cassiar - a rougher emptier paved highway that connects with the AlCan part way towards Tok. Mostly indigenous lands and just one lone gas stop along the way.....a long way.
It connects in BC with the infamous Highway of Tears where a couple dozen native girls have gone missing....it' a scandal and there were warning signs in the service station not to hitch.

30 km I think that construction went on......took us about 1 1/2 to traverse as there were sections and you had to wait for the pilot truck.
Meanwhile the heavy lifter gravel haulers were winging by at 100 kph right beside us.

There was a crowd of 30 or so Brazilian riders on Harleys ahead of us but the lead rider waived us ahead....
We got into the fuel station then into the border crossing before them.
I can imagine the chaos getting through the border as none but the lead riders spoke English.
Felt sorry for the border guys.....glad we were well away.

Hope at least it was dry for you.

We're not planning on hitchhiking too much, nor have we picked up any, although we've seen quite a few people doing it out here. We're also booked in for the Haines to Prince Rupert ferry, so no Cassiar for us.

We actually managed to fly through that construction for the most part. It was all dry except for a few sections, only had 1 pucker-up moment when we hit some peanut butter like stuff, otherwise it was smooth sailing. I think we only had 1 pilot car, although there were construction spots winding down for the day that we would have been stopped at 30 min before. I found the construction north of Fort Nelson to be worse actually, probably because we got caught in the middle of a group and got to follow a dust cloud for what seemed like 5K.

We've met a few cyclists attempting to go from Alaska to Argentina. If Lori said she wanted to do that, I'd be all over that. I suppose we can just go slower on the Tiger...One guy from Germany, told us about a close bear encounter he had a few days before, said he had to use his pepper spray to get it to back away.

Dry? We finally hit some rain shortly after crossing into Alaska, adding another 15 minutes of rain to our tally, which now stands at about 2 hours 15 min of total rain (ridden through) over the last 32 days. Yes I'm writing about it. Yes I'm talking about it. Why? Because our next few destinations are showing rain for as far as the forecast shows, so there's about a 1000% chance of rain as far as I can tell. It's been great while it lasted.
 
That is stunning. I met a rider yesterday who had his Africa twin shipped to South America, rode to TDF then North up to Alaska, East and left is for Halifax this afternoon. He showed me a picture from Alaska of a truck smashing him with mud soup, and totally blinded him with the stuff.

I want to do Alaska very badly.
 
masochist....
We almost had that with a truck as well.....spotted the pond before he hit it and slowed....would have rocked the SUV let alone a mcycle rider.

••

l84toff

glad you negotiated the construction reasonably.
Let us know how the scuba adventure on land goes.

Just back from 1600 KM road trip through PA in 2 days - sore but stunning weather and great roads with very little traffic.
Very glad for the Nexus card tho
Buddy cleared at 8.55 - I cleared an hour earlier.
 
Banff & Jasper

In the morning we awoke to water dripping into our tent. Rain? That's strange, the forecast didn't mention rain! We looked outside to find a sprinkler strategically placed on our campsite, so that it covered the picnic table with our towels and about half the tent. Not a great way to start the day. I got no love from the culprit (employee) doing the watering when I brought this to his attention. I was quite unimpressed!


Too bad, overall it seemed like a nice town. We walked to a Shawarma place the night before for dinner, which was excellent and thought a stop at Cora's for breakfast would improve the mood a bit in the morning.


We skirted Calgary on our way out of Okotoks and rode towards Banff and Jasper. It didn't take long for the scenery to dramatically change from flat farmland to sharp, jagged peaks of the Rockies rising up from the ground.






“Hello and welcome back to the Rockies”, I heard them say.









If you hate mountains, this place may not be for you.


We stopped in Banff for a coffee and found the place just packed with tourists.



Lake Louise was the same, just teeming with people. It was Mission Impossible to find a parking spot here, we ended up on the curb just as you pull in. For some reason I've always had a nice calm, peaceful image in my head when picturing Lake Louise. In person it was more like a new attraction at a theme park however.



That's a little bit better. The view is still pretty epic I thought.



The strange thing is that as soon as we left Lake Louise, the crowds completely disappeared. In fact we found another lake just as beautiful, if not more so, just a short ride up the Icefields Parkway. There was not a single person in sight when we stopped. I think this was Bow Lake if I recall correctly.






It was one spectacular view after another.



Lori always seems to find beautiful plant life everywhere we go.



Although there was quite a bit of road traffic, the area still managed to have a remote feeling to it. In fact we were alone most pulls off we stopped at.






The Icefield Parkway very deserving of it's name.



It was another spectacular day. In fact we’re starting to be concerned about all this nice weather - no not really. But we’ve somehow managed to get through the last 3 weeks with only 2 hrs of total rain riding time. Our new rain gear seems to be working wonders!


We ended up just outside of Jasper at what we later learned was North America's largest campground, Whistler's Campground. We strolled up sans-reservation and hoped they could accommodate us. After a brief mix up, apparently someone was already occupying the site we got sent to, we set up and rode into town for a late dinner at Famoso Pizzeria. Excellent gluten free pizza by the way. No pics, sorry. I admit that for someone who loves food as much as I do, I'm slacking in the food pics department. I'll make a mental note to improve this. Of course given the choice of pics or eating…


I'm also discovering that we're both learning quite a lot about not only ourselves, but each other on this trip. I guess not unexpected considering the scale of such an adventure. We've discovered for instance, that Lori has a significant fear of bears. Although we learned this a few nights back in Montana, camping here at Whistler's where they just put down a bear because it lost its fear of people (very unfortunate by the way) is definitely not helping matters. It was actually the first time we took our bear spray out of the side case.


Even at Perry's in Montanta I didn't feel the need to have it out, especially with the large group of hikers having a big dinner and cowboy camping a site over from us. Even still, we're very careful not to bring any sort of food, or scented items into the tent with us. Even our stash of Werther's get's emptied out of the pockets. We all have to make small sacrifices sometimes. In the end, we had a very uneventful sleep.



Just a few minutes north of Jasper we found a beautiful spot and pulled over for a few pics.






Obligatory reflection-of-mountains-in-still-pond photo.





I booked an appointment in Edmonton to get the bike serviced. It's nice to have a 10,000 mile major service interval, but the miles come quick when riding across North America.
 
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Those pictures are stunning!
 
Ah good to hear from you OP. Was concerned some bear had eaten you both ;)

I think this was Bow Lake if I recall correctly.

We never bothered with Lake Louise up close...to busy as well but visited Moraine lake nearby and really enjoyed it.
Jasper and Banff are almost overwhelming any time of the year now.
Do once and check off on the bucket list.

In my case it was twice 44 year apart :D

Looking forward to the next leg.
 
Yeah - that's why that area, Banff, Bow Valley, Jasper, Muncho Lake, Valdez and Kenai Fjords is a must do for touring riders.
Drop dead scenary when the weather holds. The glacial rivers and lakes look weird because of the tropical colours that come from the glacial silt.

The internal light with glaciers coming up through the pools on the surface is even weirder.



This from a lucky score on a glacier landing flight $100 each !!!
Glaciers are strange beasts. This rough rugged exterior and incredible internal beauty.
 
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Moving through Alberta was somewhat on the uneventful side once we got clear of Jasper. We killed a day in Edmonton getting the bike serviced and ended up in Grand Prairie a couple of days later. I was pretty excited to be heading north, not only closer to Alaska, but I was also looking forward to the extended daylight. At the moment it’s 10:30pm and it’s still light out.





Happy Trails campground in Grande Prairie sounded nice for a stop. We found all the roads are freshly paved with every RV site covered in gravel and fenced off between each other, not exactly our thing, apparently we were in the minority judging by how packed they were. At least the tent sites were at the back in an open field.

One thing that has us perplexed so far is the location of the tent sites at most RV parks/campgrounds. All the RV's seem to get all the open spots in the middle of the park and the tent sites get relegated to the back of the park, where it's completely covered by trees and often next to a swamp. This ensures that RV sites typically have less mosquitos and are close to the bathrooms. Whereas tenters are in a mosquito infested area and have to walk across most of the park to get to a bathroom. Do you see where I'm going with this?

So far, the majority of RV'ers seem to hang out, well, inside their RV’s where they have all the amenities such as bathrooms, kitchens, comfy living spaces. The tenters, typically hang out outside, since their tents are often on the smaller side (and I think they're just much more social bunch anyway). They also have to cook outside and then there’s the bathroom sitch. Lori wakes up at 2am and is faced with a choice: does she want to get eaten alive outside the tent or make a run for the bathroom?



It was tempting to put a few more miles down what with all that daylight, but we decided to stop early and take time to swap out the gaskets on the Globescout cases. We had been carrying these with us since Montana and even with our stop in Edmonton, we still had not managed to replace them. I suppose I just wasn’t properly motivated with all the nice weather. The Triple G campground in Fort Nelson has a restaurant with a very cool western motif and makes a pretty mean breakfast burrito. We also met DualSport David from Alberta, on his KTM. He was doing a 4 day, 3700km loop.






Thinking of maybe riding all the way up to Whitehorse tomorrow, a mere 951km day. According to google, it would take 12.5hrs of actual riding time, so 16+ hrs with stops. Hmmm, on second thought…

Our schedule seems to be tightening up now that we’ve booked the Haines to Prince Rupert ferry, not sure we’ll make it up the Dempster. I would say that our days off are catching up to us, but to be honest we really haven't taken all that much time off. Additionally the forecast looks like crap over the few days that we’re supposed to be up there. Not that I care about the rain that much, but the road gets pretty ugly when wet. I've heard it described as a very slippery peanut butter like substance once it gets wet - not something either one of us were looking forward to.

Disappointing if we don’t get up there to say the least, but I’m not keen on risking our lives, the bike, huge towing bills just to say we did it. We’ve been talking quite a bit about this over the last few days. Going up the Dempster means we're doing big(ger) mileage days every day till the ferry, while skipping it means we can actually take a day off.



Animal count today =
1 black bear
2 moose
2 caribou
1 big horned sheep








There is a big horned sheep within 10 feet of us here...can you see it? We were experiencing radio silence with both our headsets charging in the tank bag this morning, while Lori had the camera and was snapping pics of anything interesting. We were following some traffic when it all came to a stop on account of the big horned sheep standing on the shoulder to our left. I could tell Lori was snapping pics as she moved around on the back. Later that day, we were going through the pics and for some strange reason I couldn't find the one of the big horned sheep. Lori's response, "what big horned sheep?". "You know, the one where all the traffic stopped, just before Muncho Lake. It was close enough to touch almost", I said.

Ever wonder how two people can experience the same event but have a completely different memory of it? That's how.

And in other news, our first fill up past Fort Nelson cost $1.79 per litre. The sign read “No Sniveling”. We probably could have skipped this station but I wasn’t sure exactly where the next one was so I thought I would top off the tank. Luckily I only had to put in 7 litres. Maybe I should have filled up the RotoPax here too as the next fill up made this one seem like a bargain.





Our next break was just past Muncho Lake, where we stopped for an expensive lunch break and an even more expensive fill up. $1.969 per litre. I wish that was a typo. It’s a good thing we were getting 40mpg on this stretch of the trip, and that this was another small fill up of 8 litres. You have no idea how good you have it back home. A dollar forty-what?


Muncho Lake





The entire Muncho Lake area was very picturesque.


A significant amount of construction coming out of Fort Nelson gave the Tiger a bit more street cred.

Inside the restaurant I read something explaining why it costs so much to have everything shipped here. Seemed plausible until our next fill up in the Yukon only a 258km down the road, where we filled up for $1.45/L. Not sure why such a difference in cost, I imagined the same delivery truck dropping off gas at both stations.











View from the back of the bike?
 
How about Labrador bug jackets for those dashes to the outhouse?

Again, simply beautiful shots.

To hell with schedules, from what I've experienced and read, running to 'make it on time' becomes a regret later on.
 
How about Labrador bug jackets for those dashes to the outhouse?

Again, simply beautiful shots.

To hell with schedules, from what I've experienced and read, running to 'make it on time' becomes a regret later on.

Thanks RR. We do have bug nets for our heads and some nylon windbreakers. Getting everything put on for the bathroom dash is another story though, especially if both of those items are in a pannier on the bike...

Indeed we agree about the schedule stuff. We had some things we committed to here in BC and so our schedule was, well....scheduled. We've been discussing the speed of our travels so far (25,000km in 3months) and will be seriously slowing down from now on.
 
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Into the Yukon


Another beautiful day on the road.

Every so often either Lori or I get this feeling that we're going to see an animal. It doesn't always happen but in this instance a few miles down the road, we see some rather large droppings on the highway and some worn out patches in the grass where you can tell a large animal has rolled around. A few moments later we slowed down to see a herd of buffalo grazing on the opposite side of the road. Although Yellowstone had the highest buffalo population we've seen on this trip, this was actually the closest we got to these big guys.





We made it as far as Watson Lake today, Whitehorse will have to wait another day. We ended up in a gravel RV park with a patch of grass-like substance at the back of the property. “We don’t offer tent camping but there is a spot in the back corner you can set up your tent. It’s $25 and includes a shower, take it or leave it”, said the owner.


Ok OK, we get it...

Although the prime spot was already taken up by a couple and their bicycles, we managed to squeeze in beside them. We spent the evening chatting with them, Nici & Philip from Austria, who are riding their bikes all the way to Ushuaia, Argentina. They think it will take them about 2 years to get there. You can check out their Facebook page here.


Each bike is carrying two 25 litre pannier-bags on either side of each wheel, another dry bag on top of the rear wheel and a handle bar mounted bag. I think they’re more loaded than we are.


Just a short walk up the road is the world famous Sign Post Forest. Started by Private Carl Lindley, a homesick soldier working on the Alaska Highway back in 1942.


Currently there are over 72,000 signs in the forest.

In the morning Philip told us about another couple they met a few days back, that were hiking (not to be confused with hitch-hiking) across Canada, from Inuvik to Newfoundland. He asked if we could drop off a little package (of beer and chocolate bars) for them if we saw them.


Sure enough, 120km later, we see a couple pushing a cart down the shoulder of the ALCAN. We pulled over and told them that they might find this a bit strange but we had a delivery for them. They both had this strange look on their faces like WTF? Yes, those insoles you ordered came in and UPS asked us to drop them off…ok, not really. They were both super excited to get the care package, I mean who gets beer and chocolate bars delivered in the middle of the Yukon? I totally love this sort of thing.


Sarah and Oskar are both from Ontario, she’s from Brampton and he’s from Mississauga, where I grew up. The world got even smaller when I learned Oskar is originally from Poland, where I was born.

So how long does it take to hike across Canada? About 18 months give or take a few hours, mostly following the Trans Canada Trail. You can check out their blog at RambleCanada.wordpress.com.

On Sarah and Oskar’s recommendation, we pulled in to the Rancheria restaurant at mile post 710 for some breakfast, just a short drive down the road.




A few minutes later a bunch of adventure bikes pull up, followed by a couple more waves of bikers a few minutes after that.

We were glad to have our order already placed. We ended up leap frogging with one of the groups and ended up in the same campground in Whitehorse.






This really puts the distance into perspective for me. Wow!


Making good use of our kitchen sink again, handy little thing.




Sunset was officially at 10:25pm local time. It finally got dark around 12:30am. Now that’s pretty cool.
 
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Re: Into the Yukon

Nice - if you are going to Whitehorse mind the forest fires....hack hack. But you are likely been and gone.
 
Re: Into the Yukon

Nice - if you are going to Whitehorse mind the forest fires....hack hack. But you are likely been and gone.

Yup long gone. We did have a brush with the fires in BC so to speak. There was a 40km stretch of Hwy16 that was being detoured 150km (due to fires) over dirt and a long stretch with a pilot car, at least that's the way it looked at night. By morning it was cleared up enough that the Hwy was open, so we lucked out.
 
Whitehorse




Robert Service Campground is located just outside Whitehorse right along the Yukon river, a great spot if you’re riding a bike. First, it is just a tent campground so no RV’s here. Also because we were on a bike, we were allowed to ride in to our site. Anyone in a car has to park in the parking lot and walk in. Something to consider if you have to haul your entire camping set up to one of the spots along the extremity of the campground.


Having made the decision to skip the Dempster :( we decided to take a day off here. We’re both getting a little tired of the daily grind and need a break. Ultimately I think we need a vacation but a day off is a good start.


The decision to skip the Dempster was a tough one. I really wanted to get up to the Arctic Circle and had this on my bucket list for some time. It came down to weather and timing for us. The weather was supposed to be really crappy everywhere from Dawson to Inuvik and Chicken. Wet and cold. No matter how much we liked Newfoundland, both of these aren't very appealing. Another thing I wasn’t looking forward to is the peanut butter like substance the Dempster turns into when wet. Had I been riding solo, I probably wouldn’t have given it much thought and just gone. Being loaded and 2 up, I had to ask myself how badly I wanted to get up there, and why. Going just to say that we went isn’t really all that important to be honest.


Riding up the Dempster also meant we would have to ride every day till we met the ferry in Haines 10 days from now, without a break. We were both tired as it was, and another 10 days without a stop was not all that super appealing. Not to mention if we had any sort of issues along the way. It left us with little room for error.


Skipping the Dempster also opened up our schedule a bit. We could take a day off here in Whitehorse and another day in Anchorage. It also meant we’d stay with nicer weather for a bit longer. We might also be able to get down to Valdez or Homer, although they are currently having some very significant rainfall…


The other issue we were having with rain is that our tent was leaking. At first we thought it was all the excess condensation but turns out that the seam tape used on the tent is flaking off and the tent is no longer waterproof. In fact, it hasn't been for some time. Good thing we've seen a little of the wet stuff. Considering the tent was bought new only a few months before, I didn’t think overuse was to blame.


To make a long story short, when we stopped in Fort Collins we had eyed another tent at REI that was actually bigger but somehow managed to pack smaller than ours, at a small weight gain. At the time, we decided against it due to cost. A few days later I looked in my inbox to find REI sent me a 25% discount code for a single item, it was hard to pass up. Only hitch was that the tent was now out of stock and on back-order. We took a chance and ordered it to be picked up in Anchorage, hoping that it would not only be back in stock but also shipped by then.


The good news is that it's shipped. The bad news is that it's scheduled to get there the day after we leave Anchorage. Hmmm, should be interesting.


We walked into Whitehorse along the scenic Millenium trail that runs follows the Yukon river, both conveniently located right behind our campsite. Had breakfast at the Burnt Toast Cafe, food was great, service on the other hand, let’s just say it was abrupt. What the “please let us seat you” sign actually meant was “let us yell across the room and point to where we want you to go”. I realize that service expectations might be somewhat different up in these parts but it was almost comical watching the staff. They must not be hurting for business, even though we watched some folks leave before ordering anything.


We also managed to kill several hours at Starbucks uploading pics and blog posts, free re-fills and free wifi always draws us in.



Dinner was great...wait...what? Is that a backless shirt? Why yes it is. The dude wearing it was a Rod Stewart look alike.



Oooh, I think I want one of those…



What would you do for a Klondike...boat?






After a nice 2 day break we left for Tok.



On the way, Destruction Bay was quite a treat. Spectacular scenery and perfect weather. We also took a break here for some lunch. I wouldn’t recommend the burger(like product), although the poutine was decent. Diet is so important when travelling after all.



Massive moose head hung up on the wall of the place, ads for air tours of the glaciers and they were even hiring. Seems everywhere we go, places are hiring.



Lots of construction along the ALCAN. Lots!



We stopped for some obligatory pics at the Welcome to Alaska signs just before crossing the border.






Tigger posing for a pic.


Speaking of which, we crossed the Canadian border entry point about 30km’s before the US border. Weird. We wondered what was in this no-mans land, although the speed limit signs in KM/H give it away. Of course we’ve also crossed another time zone entering Alaska. Cool.
 
Re: Whitehorse

Nice to see some Whitehorse pics. We made a similar decision about the Dempster and took a couple days in Tok....plus it gave us enough time to easily do Yellowknife.

It was hard to be only 300km from the Arctic Circle and not at least check that one off ( Fairbanks )

Nice to recall the places - still sorting photos. We really enjoyed Tok but just because we took 2 days in a lovely cabin a few mi out of town.
Keep the photos and narrative coming ...appreciated,

Currently enjoying lovely early fall in PA after a deluge on Friday. low teens at night early morning to high 20s and super clear days.
 

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