Windscreen cleaning/polishing out scratches and what about vents | GTAMotorcycle.com

Windscreen cleaning/polishing out scratches and what about vents

MacDoc

MacDoc

Well-known member
Site Supporter
Put on 1600 km in the last two days and of course the bike looked it as well some accumulation from last ride last year which I had not expected to be last since it was October. ( US van trip then horrid winter )

Cleaning a screen of bugs in the sunlight is an exercise in frustration but I seem to have built up some fine scratches inside and out from rather improper use of cleaning materials. :tongue6:


A Magic sponge picked up some of them so it looks okay to use but


a) is there a method for removing them


b) best protection material on it


c) safest cleaning gear


I'm pretty "don't care" in terms of keeping it all pretty and clean :rolleyes: but seeing things is a safety issue even if I nearly always am looking over it ( due to conditions and being tired yesterday I put it up full to reduce noise ).

Figured I'd put this in touring as most of the tourers have screens to maintain.

Also how many with screens with vents???
I noticed a lot of the bug splatter was on the inside which means backwash of significance to splatter a bug.
My ST1100 had vents and was the quietest I've been behind...even at 150kph no turbulence or back pressure.

I'm considering replacing the existing screen with the same one with vents.
I usually like moseying along at 90-100 but then there is some slab time and that's where less turbulence and noise would be nice.
The ST1100 was quieter ( same helmet etc ).

mQE7pK4ipwT2PSAEt5aBSBg.jpg


Not fond of the look of that screen in profile but damn it works.
You can still easily see over it but no turbulence.

The Burgman should have an advantage as I can vary the screen height while riding but something in the screen design isn't quite correct and I suspect it's the vents.

My bug problem - you can see the screen is if anything wider and better hand coverage...but not as quiet.

 
I use motul E7 insect remover, spray on and let set for 30 seconds, wipe off with a micro fibre cloth and you are done. Stuff works great
 
I have laid a wet soapy towel on the screen to soften bug residue, then hitting it with Plexus. I have used Plexus for years. Some screens have a hard coating on them that requires more care with cleaning chemicals and cloths, if so any cleaning information should be in the owner's manual or screen manufacturer instructions.

Micro-fibre works great until you wash it, then it picks up lint and fibers from other towels and clothes and can start to scratch surfaces. Ask me how I know this. Then they make good shop rags.
 
I've used oven cleaner with great results to remove bug residue. It is crazy harsh though so spray it off 15-30 seconds after you spray it on, the bugs fall right off. Put some wax on the plastics afterwards to restore shine.

I wouldn't use it on a new screen, but given the condition of yours, I don't think it will harm it any.
 
Bugs are long gone...just trying to buff out the scratches....screen was good riding today.
Being nit picky about it which is usually not my style but sort of curious if it can be buffed out.
The Magic sponge did okay on the small section I tried it on.

here is another tip for Novus.

I fabricate and sell both acrylic (pelixiglass) and polycarbonate(lexan)...I assume your windshield is made of 1 of these 2 materials.....use a product called Novus....it comes in 3 different grades....use the #3 first and then the #1....use a 100% cotton clothe or even better a cotton baby diaper....this stuff works great.....you can buy it from any plastic distributor (pm me if you can not find it locally: I sell it but I don't want to violate any rules on this site)....it is cheap...both grades should not cost anymore then $10.00....in the future, do NOT use anything like Windex,409 or any glass cleaner...do NOT use paper towels...both acrylic and polycarbonate scratch very easy....use a mild detergent (dishwashing liquid soap) and the cotton clothe (the tighter the weave the better)....any questions, please pm me...good luck
Click to expand...

Looks good - here is the site.

https://www.allglassparts.com/product/1515237/648083
 
MacDoc said:
Bugs are long gone...just trying to buff out the scratches....screen was good riding today.
Being nit picky about it which is usually not my style but sort of curious if it can be buffed out.
The Magic sponge did okay on the small section I tried it on.

here is another tip for Novus.



Looks good - here is the site.

https://www.allglassparts.com/product/1515237/648083
Click to expand...

I've used Novus before (I have 1, 2, and 3), didn't work any miracles.
 
regder said:
I've used Novus before (I have 1, 2, and 3), didn't work any miracles.
Click to expand...

Same here. You need a high-speed polisher to get results. I would imagine the headlight restoration process the pros use would work well on a windscreen.
 
DJM said:
I have laid a wet soapy towel on the screen to soften bug residue, then hitting it with Plexus. I have used Plexus for years. Some screens have a hard coating on them that requires more care with cleaning chemicals and cloths, if so any cleaning information should be in the owner's manual or screen manufacturer instructions.

Micro-fibre works great until you wash it, then it picks up lint and fibers from other towels and clothes and can start to scratch surfaces. Ask me how I know this. Then they make good shop rags.
Click to expand...

A few things: first off, NEVER wash your MF towels with anything else other than MF towels. Even if it's only a handful--as you've experienced, they pick up the crap from other materials and will never be "paint-safe" again.

I use a plastic polish called from Duragloss (available at eshine). It works decent by hand, and even better with a rotary polisher. Polishing plastic via machine requires a bit more attention than paint because it is unable to dissipate heat (required for abrasives to work) as well as metal, and can become permanently damaged due to excessive heat.

In addition to the wet paper towel trick, you can make it easier for yourself if you apply sealant/wax on the windshield. A good one is Collinite 845 ($15 from eshine)which will last you 4-5 months, and rain will bead up immediately and bounce right off!
 
We use lemon Pledge for cleaning day to day. I've also good results with the Mothers clay bar system. I've used it on body panels with a glass like finish and also to get swirls out of windscreens. Works great because you use a wax as a lube for the clay bar. Note; do not drop the clay bar! if you do,throw it out .
 
bobbyh said:
We use lemon Pledge for cleaning day to day. I've also good results with the Mothers clay bar system. I've used it on body panels with a glass like finish and also to get swirls out of windscreens. Works great because you use a wax as a lube for the clay bar. Note; do not drop the clay bar! if you do,throw it out .
Click to expand...

Claybar will NOT take out swirls.. it's main purpose is to peel and lift (shave actually) contaminates from paint/glass/plastic. It has no abrasives to level the surface, and actually, will PUT swirls into the surface if the claybar becomes too contaminated.
 
MSRP thanks for the eshine link, I spent almost an hour browsing their site. Canadian too. Found me some nice boar hair brushes.
 
Is this good for windscreens? Another site said it beads up water perfectly

This heavy duty liquid wax was originally developed for use by electric power companies for protection against high voltage power failure, fires and explosions. It's primary use is on the finishes of automobiles, trucks, buses and airplanes where durability, high gloss and lasting protection are paramount. An excellent choice for fleet applications and very easy to use--requires minimum rubbing or buffing. Clear coat safe.
Click to expand...

LiquidInsulatorWaxNo845_medium.png


https://www.eshine.ca/collinite_liquid_insulator_wax_no_845_16oz-1002.php
 
bobbyh said:
We use lemon Pledge for cleaning day to day. I've also good results with the Mothers clay bar system. I've used it on body panels with a glass like finish and also to get swirls out of windscreens. Works great because you use a wax as a lube for the clay bar. Note; do not drop the clay bar! if you do,throw it out .
Click to expand...

Lemon pledge will yellow the screen or the plastic lenses of lights over time. There is a chemical that reacts to UV rays.

I use use plexus and it works well.
 
I went into Motorcycle Superstore last summer looking for Plastex and he talked me into this stuff... http://www.ipone.fr/EN/sprays,products-31... spray on, wait a few seconds, then buff out with a microfiber cloth. Took the swirls out of my windscreen and even used it on my paint with great results.
 
MacDoc said:
Is this good for windscreens? Another site said it beads up water perfectly



LiquidInsulatorWaxNo845_medium.png


https://www.eshine.ca/collinite_liquid_insulator_wax_no_845_16oz-1002.php
Click to expand...

That's the stuff.
It's infamous in the detailing world as the cheapest, long-lasting/durable wax/sealant with great results. One of the top "bang for your buck" options. You can use it anywhere that's metal, plastic, or glass. I would avoid getting it on car trims, and car windsheilds (due to the wipers), but for something like a bike windshield without wipers, I would, and do use it.

Easily 4-5 months of strong beading.
Use it on your car, and you'll find yourself starring and pulling out the camera during rain showers--the beading is unmatched.

Protip: apply very thinly. READ: SUPER THIN. You should barely be able to see it when applied--do not apply like old school paste wax where you can clearly see where you have/have not applied. If you use an MF towel or those little foam applicators, spritz with water, and a dime sized dallop will be sufficient for BOTH sides of a bike windshield. Spread once horizontally across the entire panel/windshield to spread, then go over in the opposite direction for coverage.
In good warm weather (out of the sun if possible) it should be ready to buff off in.... 10 minutes. Swipe with little pressure on your finger, and if your finger swipe wipes off the hazed wax, it's good to remove.

In cold temps, you man need to let it haze 30 minutes to an hour, but use the finger swipe to gauge when it's good to buff off. If it's hard/or a nightmare to buff off, wayyyy over-applied. I highly recommend testing it on a panel/car door before you apply to the entire car. Learn from my mistake, trying to wipe it off an Escalade when using too much product spells a nightmare-ish few hours. Apply a thin and even layer, and it'll be easy as pie!

This stuff is great, and will save you from "waxing my bike every wash" as it will last most of the riding season. Just use quick detailer or spray wax when you dry your bike/car off, and it'll prolong it's durability even more!
 
Last edited:
MSRP said:
That's the stuff.
It's infamous in the detailing world as the cheapest, long-lasting/durable wax/sealant with great results. One of the top "bang for your buck" options. You can use it anywhere that's metal, plastic, or glass. I would avoid getting it on car trims, and car windsheilds (due to the wipers), but for something like a bike windshield without wipers, I would, and do use it.

Easily 4-5 months of strong beading.
Use it on your car, and you'll find yourself starring and pulling out the camera during rain showers--the beading is unmatched.

Protip: apply very thinly. READ: SUPER THIN. You should barely be able to see it when applied--do not apply like old school paste wax where you can clearly see where you have/have not applied. If you use an MF towel or those little foam applicators, spritz with water, and a dime sized dallop will be sufficient for BOTH sides of a bike windshield. Spread once horizontally across the entire panel/windshield to spread, then go over in the opposite direction for coverage.
In good warm weather (out of the sun if possible) it should be ready to buff off in.... 10 minutes. Swipe with little pressure on your finger, and if your finger swipe wipes off the hazed wax, it's good to remove.

In cold temps, you man need to let it haze 30 minutes to an hour, but use the finger swipe to gauge when it's good to buff off. If it's hard/or a nightmare to buff off, wayyyy over-applied. I highly recommend testing it on a panel/car door before you apply to the entire car. Learn from my mistake, trying to wipe it off an Escalade when using too much product spells a nightmare-ish few hours. Apply a thin and even layer, and it'll be easy as pie!

This stuff is great, and will save you from "waxing my bike every wash" as it will last most of the riding season. Just use quick detailer or spray wax when you dry your bike/car off, and it'll prolong it's durability even more!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the review, will have to place an order
 
When you get it, shake it like Beyonce for a good few minutes.

Should be goopy, not watery.

Sorry for the thread-derail.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom