My fuel injected bike dies at idle... Kawasaki says its normal?! | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

My fuel injected bike dies at idle... Kawasaki says its normal?!

2motors said:
It's a matter of opinion really but having ridden both bikes numerous times, I would be any money the 300 would be faster than 400 on a track. 400 blows balls they only made it for 2 years 500 was great made it for what like 20 years?

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Only imported it for 2 years. It's made for markets where their graduated licensing requires no more than a 400cc bike for the first step.
 
Hi,
i know it has been a while since you posted your comment about your ninja 400r diying at idle, but I'm experiencing the exact same problem with my 2012 ninja 400r, every time I take it out, it stalls at first stop. then when it's warmer it almost never happen, except on few occasions, exactly as you described. You say that you had the valve clearance adjusted so the bike runs more rich, would you have any more detail on what was done on the bike. I'm kind of desperate since I've been experiencing this for a complete season and getting frustrated with all I'm told by mecanics and all. Thanks in advance.
 
Sorry, but it looks like OP didn't stick around. TBH "the valve clearance adjusted so that the bike runs more rich" doesn't make a lick of sense to me, valve clearance has nothing to do with fuel mixture.
 
TwistedKestrel said:
Sorry, but it looks like OP didn't stick around. TBH "the valve clearance adjusted so that the bike runs more rich" doesn't make a lick of sense to me, valve clearance has nothing to do with fuel mixture.
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There is no way the OP can tell for sure if the bike is running richer or leaner - its going to be purely by observation.
 
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Rob MacLennan said:
Only imported it for 2 years. It's made for markets where their graduated licensing requires no more than a 400cc bike for the first step.
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300R = factory slipper clutch too
 
I've had a bit of a wobble at speed problem on the FJ09 since installing the larger screen

maybe I'll run into a truck or something to take care of the issue

edit: sorry OP....great thread bro
 
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JavaFan said:
I've had a bit of a wobble at speed problem on the FJ09 since installing the larger screen

maybe I'll run into a truck or something to take care of the issue

edit: sorry OP....great thread bro
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what sort of wobble problems?
 
2wzilla said:
what sort of wobble problems?
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it's an adjustable - height and angle screen, 20 inches tall so a lot larger than OEM
if I put it up to enjoy max protection the handlebars/forks/front wheel wobble side to side
not dangerously so, but happens most often when on the highway when passing trucks
so it does cause some anxiety....seems also to be affected by weight, when loaded heavy
for a long trip the wobble is worse....all is good under 130, but sometimes I like to cruise
a bit higher in unpopulated areas, or to get by a truck/idiot quickly
 
Thanks TwistedKestrel, I don't know much about mecanic, so I figured that adjusting valve clearance could help with my bike stalling, I hope to find a solution since I want to sell the bike and don't want to pass the problem. I may try to change the battery, do you know if the battery is what keeps the motor running at idle ?
 
Battery can cause something similar to the problem OP was talking about, but if the dealer mechanics couldn't diagnose that they need to be fired. You can check the battery by checking the voltage with a meter with the bike off, with the bike idling, and with giving the motor some throttle. Key off should be over 12.4(ish?), idling could be higher or lower, but with some throttle it should be much higher, high 13s or low 14s

Edit: Forgot to mention if that voltage doesn't go up much or gets lower when you rev the bike, then you have a charging system problem
 
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There's a sensor that's part of the throttle body that can be checked, but you need the service manual and I would expect the Kawasaki tech already did that.
The bad news is that the only way to verify for sure that was causing the problem would be to replace it with a known good one, and its not sold separately - only as part of the throttle body assembly.
If the valve clearances are correct, it may indeed just be a case of TMDT - that machine does that....
 
YAM said:
Hi,
i know it has been a while since you posted your comment about your ninja 400r diying at idle, but I'm experiencing the exact same problem with my 2012 ninja 400r, every time I take it out, it stalls at first stop. then when it's warmer it almost never happen, except on few occasions, exactly as you described. You say that you had the valve clearance adjusted so the bike runs more rich, would you have any more detail on what was done on the bike. I'm kind of desperate since I've been experiencing this for a complete season and getting frustrated with all I'm told by mecanics and all. Thanks in advance.
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Sorry, I'm a bit late; didn't see the email notification until now. Also sorry to hear you're going through the same crap I had to go through. I don't have any more details to offer you regarding what my mechanic did at that time; I was as detailed as I could when I wrote those updates and that's all the information they gave me. Did you suggest any of these ideas to your mechanic?
 
Hi, sounds like the bikes tuned for emissions and lean at idle and off idle. Johncruiser flashes ecu 's for a nominal amount. Its a bargain imo. Ask him to slightly richen the idle and off idle (idle & low rpm's). Then test ride. If you don't like the way it is after the re flash john cruiser can put it back to stock. I think you will notice an improvement in low rpm drivability and power after the flash. Check a 400r specific forum and I bet you will hear more about this. Id pm johncruiser.

edit-you don't need a power commander, a reflash will do the trick.
 
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T've fixed a few of these.

The FI controller is designed to cut fuel completely under certain deceleration conditions. This reduces emmissions and eliminated popping in the exhaust. The controller looks at from vacuum, throttle, RPM, and O2. Altering anything that changes engine breathing or O2 reading can trick the controller into cutting off fuel -- if at idle or low RPM you stall. Here are the options:

1) Return your air filter & exhaust to stock
2) Put the snorkel/baffle back in the airbok (that cute growl isn't worth it)
3) set idle a hair above 1350RPM (make sure engine is at operating temp)

This worked on a few 400's I've fixed.

Another option if you want to keep you r mods is to find a tuner to setup a Power Commander for you -- box+tuning service about $800.
 
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