New Ninja 300 Break In | GTAMotorcycle.com

New Ninja 300 Break In

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DanM44

Active member
Hey guys, I'm sure this topic has been beaten to death a thousand times before, but I picked up my first bike; a 2014 Ninja 300 and really want to break it in properly. Do you have to follow the owners manual word for word? Does it really matter in the long run? What is the best method to break it in for maximum longevity?

Thanks for any advice.
 
Whatever dealer says would be my guess. Break in period does matter for engine longevity. You don't want premature wear on parts and specific operating temp for each part seems important.

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The most critical aspect of break in on a street bike is high cylinder pressure on the rings. You achieve that with WOT at low to mid rpm, progressively increasing engine speed with each pull. Change your oil and filter (mineral) at 500 and 1500 km, switch to synthetic at 3000km if your want.
 
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rule of thumb is baby it for the first 400km than ride normal (shift 2k before redline) the next 600 km and then drive how you want after.
 
DanM44 said:
Hey guys, I'm sure this topic has been beaten to death a thousand times before, but I picked up my first bike; a 2014 Ninja 300 and really want to break it in properly. Do you have to follow the owners manual word for word? Does it really matter in the long run? What is the best method to break it in for maximum longevity?

Thanks for any advice.
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why not just follow what the owner's manual says...
 
deejizzle said:
why not just follow what the owner's manual says...
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That's what the manual says only its not as specific. Just don't do stupid **** like hard launches and rev in traffic for no reason.

It says shift at 4k rpm for first 400 then 8k for 600 but its not necessary, its more on how hard you accelerate to said RPMs, which is why I'd say go with 5,000 rpm then 9,000 rpm normal because really you just want to seat the piston rings properly.
 
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XenoVibe said:
That's what the manual says only its not as specific. Just don't do stupid **** like hard launches and rev in traffic for no reason.

It says shift at 4k rpm for first 400 then 8k for 600 but its not necessary, its more on how hard you accelerate to said RPMs, which is why I'd say go with 5,000 rpm then 9,000 rpm normal because really you just want to seat the piston rings properly.
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It take less than 10 minutes to properly seat the rings, I wonder if the people that designed the bike, and many other very successful bikes, know more than you do.
My money is on Kawasaki.
There is more to engine breakin than seating the rings. A lot more.
 
"http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I just had my motor rebuilt and will be using this method."

A lot of people claim that this is the way to go.

"My money is on Kawasaki.
There is more to engine breakin than seating the rings. A lot more."

This is the problem. There's a lot of support for both sides of this argument. I always wondered if Kawi recommends an option that is playing it safe simply because of the sheer number of bikes they produce and liability concerns? On the other hand it seems a little crazy to doubt a company that has been a frontrunner in this business for so long.
 
I'll just add one more thing.

One of the specialists on a forum specific to my bike ran a test. He took two rebuilt motors and did a hard break-in on one, and soft break-in on the other.
The motor with the hard break-in made more power, burned less oil, was easier to start, and had almost no blow-by. If that's good enough for an AMA team it's good enough for me.

At the end of the day it's your bike, break it in how you see fit.
 
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