I may have put my master link on too tight!

As my title states, I was putting on my master link, I lubed it up and it was very difficult to push in to begin with. I had the spacers in while riveting the link and they were still a little lose and decided to go for another quarter turn. The spacers came out, a little snug, but nothing extreme I think.

Now as i turn my rear tire and the master link goes around the front sprocket I can feel like it gets stuck and when it emerges from the cover I can see a kink, like it isn't pivoting properly, with some pressure I can make it go back to normal. I then ran the bike on the centre stand in first gear the the chain bounces as the link goes over the front sprocket.

My questions are: did I rivet my link too tightly? Is the master link supposed to slide into the chain with minimal effort? (I had to use my tool to press it into the chain at the start) And lastly, will the link break itself in in a sense and that little ripple will disappear over time?

additional info: 2012 Honda CBR 600, I had swing arm PC and shop put a clip link on, I wanted to change it to a rivet link, I just felt better doing that. Chain was cleaned and lubed using wax lube before running.

I look forward to your opinions, I have been following this forum and it seems many people know what they are talking about most times.

Thanks a lot!

Having to press the master link onto the chain sounds a little strange to me. The only reason why I could think why that would happen would be if you used a master link from a different manufacturer...

I put a new chain on my bike last spring. Your problem is due to riveting the link too tightly.

i have no experience on this so can't say whether it will loosen up over time or not.

TwistedKestrel said:

Having to press the master link onto the chain sounds a little strange to me. The only reason why I could think why that would happen would be if you used a master link from a different manufacturer...

Click to expand...

yeah, it is a stock chain.

Your post is not clear.

1. What is this spacer you are using?

2. The Master link Should not be tight or bind. It will be the first to fail.

3. For master link - the back portion of the link - with the studs is suppose to slide through the female portion of the chain with minimal effort. Then you generally need to use a chain press tool to sandwich the front flat portion of the link into the studs.

4. What chain is it ? OEM you say - but what brand and model? (it Should be stamped on the plate/links)

5. Everything points to either
A. (mostly likely this) you do not have the matching link for that chain.

B. you have riveted your master link too tight.

Remember: your chain is only as strong as your weakest link.

frekeyguy said:

Your post is not clear.

1. What is this spacer you are using?

2. The Master link Should not be tight or bind. It will be the first to fail.

3. For master link - the back portion of the link - with the studs is suppose to slide through the female portion of the chain with minimal effort. Then you generally need to use a chain press tool to sandwich the front flat portion of the link into the studs.

4. What chain is it ? OEM you say - but what brand and model? (it Should be stamped on the plate/links)

5. Everything points to either
A. (mostly likely this) you do not have the matching link for that chain.

B. you have riveted your master link too tight.

Remember: your chain is only as strong as your weakest link.

Click to expand...

I think if you read his first post all your questions are answered, its riveted too tight. He had a clip link from the dealer, then attempted to improve the replacement by going to a riveted link. Being new at this , if tight is good, really tight appeared better.
OP I'm going to recommend you grind it off and have a do over, it may stretch out with a couple rides and snappy shifts, or let go when the stiff link causes "chain suck" and you lock the rear wheel at 100km , or have it bind into the output shaft and take out your gearbox. Fix it.

[QE=crankcall;2141257]I think if you read his first post all your questions are answered, its riveted too tight. He had a clip link from the dealer, then attempted to improve the replacement by going to a riveted link. Being new at this , if tight is good, really tight appeared better.
OP I'm going to recommend you grind it off and have a do over, it may stretch out with a couple rides and snappy shifts, or let go when the stiff link causes "chain suck" and you lock the rear wheel at 100km , or have it bind into the output shaft and take out your gearbox. Fix it.[/QUOTE]

frekeyguy said:

Your post is not clear.

1. What is this spacer you are using?

2. The Master link Should not be tight or bind. It will be the first to fail.

3. For master link - the back portion of the link - with the studs is suppose to slide through the female portion of the chain with minimal effort. Then you generally need to use a chain press tool to sandwich the front flat portion of the link into the studs.

4. What chain is it ? OEM you say - but what brand and model? (it Should be stamped on the plate/links)

5. Everything points to either
A. (mostly likely this) you do not have the matching link for that chain.

B. you have riveted your master link too tight.

Remember: your chain is only as strong as your weakest link.

Click to expand...

I do not want that to happen, I do plan on changing that before the season starts. I've probably done it too tight , but is it also possible that the link pins are too thick to fit loosely as the previous poster said?

Also, Crank, the spacers come with the link so that you don't crush the plates together too far, so that's what leads me to think I didn't to it extremely tight as I was able to get those out when I was done.

Had the same problem when rosey put on my chain, had to replace the link myself. It was on too tight. Get a new link and make sure it is the right one. If it's a low power bike I've ran a clip link on my 250 after rosey for 10k.

My problem has been fixed. I spoke with my bike dealership and they said I needed to buy a DID master link, I had another brand master link and the shafts didn't fit properly. I made the change a few hours ago and it works great now. Thanks everyone for the input.